This might help, I've had this one torn apart....way too many times, never enough water, limited water, water starts and stops. I've just now discovered that the problem is in the soap selection valve. if the internal valve is pushed too far down into it's seat, it blocks the water flow enough to cut off the limited suction that stupid little pump provides. You should see and immediate, extreme jump in water flow. Good luck
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The trigger that you pull to release water snaps into plastic pieces inside the handle where it pivots to push on the rod that goes down to push on the regulator that lets the water flow. If the trigger is pulled too hard it can break the plastic it pivots in. If this happens the rod doesn't push hard enough on the regulator to let the water flow. Remove the screw at the top of the handle to remove the handle part holding the trigger to see if this could be causing your problem.
I bought 2 rubbermaid reveal spray mops before I figured this out. You'll need a Phillips and flat head screwdriver & a can of WD40. On the compartment that holds the liquid cleaner bottle there are 2 screws and 1 screw on the connector piece to the mop head. Unscrew all three. The one by the mop head came out and the other two stayed in their holes. Then with a flathead screwdriver gently pull the seam along the side apart. You only need 1/2-1 inch of a gap. If you pull it open all the way you'll pop a few other pieces out of place and have to piece them all back together- so gently! Then spray some WD40 in along the exposed spring using the red straw that comes with the can. Close the gap, hold it together and try the trigger a few times. If the trigger is still sticking spray more WD40 in until it frees up. Then screw your screws back in and it's as good as new!
Set up is complicated unless you are patient.
Remove the paper dust bag from the bottom of the canister and then filter ring. Then put in the recovery bucket of which 4 litres of warm water should be added and a capful of floor cleaning solution.
Then remove the pump wire on top of the Vax motor where the blue filter circle is (keep the filter in, do not remove it!).
If the 2000 has a separate pump notch on the rim of the Vax motor head on the outside then you should plug the black cord in that has a washer screw type metal connector. Push, twist and lock in. Then the black cord which eventually leads to a clear pipe with the older clip on wash handle that has to be clipped to the main hose handle has to have the black and see through cord clipped to the main hose and eventually down the extension pipes until you get to the floor head. If you have the older style T shaped floor head the cord should slip into the floor head easily. Then either squeezing the trigger to release the cleaning solution in, switch the Vax on and hit the secondary pump button. This will pump the cleaning solution and water into the carpet. To stop the pump you can either lock the wash trigger to stop the liquid or squeeze the trigger to make sure no other liquid comes out. Generally you can see the foamy carpet solution flowing through the see through rubber hose and eventuallly through the floor head.
To **** up the rest of the carpet solution, stop the pump button and the Vax can be used to **** out all the dirty solution/water in the carpet. Its a big and tedious task generally!
See an alternative manual for the Vax 1000 which is an older model but similar to the 2000. It is free and in pdf downloadable form:
These are two different problems the first could be a clogged heater soap coagulates in the heater passages and clogs the flow of water to see if this is indeed the problem turn the unit on and try and spray water with the top trigger (floor nozzle) then try to spray at the hand nozzle if you get water at the hand nozzle but not the floor nozzle it is the heater. The hand nozzle water bypasses the heater. Also check the solution or soap tank if you pull it out and there is not red seal on the bottom it may be stuck in the machine and won't create a good seal check to see if it is still in the hole where the tank inserts. As for the unit not turning on that could be a number of issues cord,switch or just over heated. Visit www.stevessewandvac.com for any parts or questions about this machine or any other.
The trigger in the handle is clipped into two plastic snaps. When the trigger is pressed, the trigger pivots in these snaps and the pressure is transmitted through a rod connected to the trigger down to a valve located under the water tank. If the machine has been carried by the top handle insead of the carry handle that is incorporated into the water tank, the extra stress on the trigger will break off the snaps and the trigger will not function properly. Take the water tank off the machine and press the trigger. Observe the valve below the tank support and see if the rod is pressing down on it.
You might also check the hoses that come down the handle where they turn at the bottom of the tank. Sometimes they kink there and this will restrict water flow.
If you have been using the wrong shampoo, that is shampoo not designed for hot water extractors, it is possible for it to congeal in the lines and plug them.
Sounds like you need to replace the handle valve pieces, if they are available, if not then you will have to replace the hose asm. Just take the valve off and see if one of the pieces have a piece broken off. Then with your model number, you can see if that piece is available from someone that has Hoover parts.