I have a new GE JGP940SEKSS range that I installed yesterday. The regulator was lost, so I purchased a GE WB19K5019. This deliveres 4" natural gas to the stove.
The two front burners are larger and light quickly off of the sparker. The two smaller burners in the back also have a very good spark, but they are very slow to light, sometimes not lighting at all.
I have checked the burner gas deflector caps to see if there is a notch that needs to be placed towards the spark, but they are symmetrical, and can only be inserted in two rotations (180 deg apart). There appears to be no difference in ease of lighting depending on cap orientation. I have attempted to adjust the flame set screw (for low flame set point) a little bit and that does not seem to help.
Where do I go from here?
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Re: Gas range top burners hard to light...
Gas burners use propane or natural gas...refer to the manual to see what it takes and sometimes you have a switch to select the proper gas. you can call a gas man to confirm this and correctly tell you whats going on.
but he will propably make a trip.
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You also need to set the regulator to LP. The symptom described is an indication that the regulator is still set to natural gas. The manual should tell you how. As I remember, there is a cap on top of the regulator that is removed to allow access to a retainer that needs to be turned over so the "LP" is facing up. Check your manual or look it up online
Hi. Usually when this occurs on a brand new unit the user is using a natural gas configured range on LPG. You may have to get a NG to LPG conversion kit to reconfigure the regulator. On most newer regulators it is a matter of unswcreing the plastic side cap and flipping the inner plunger over. The conversion process is in the installation instructions. Additionally the Bake and Broil burners for the oven will also need adjusted per instructions. There are usually orifices in a package in a NEW range for the conversion of the cook top burner control valves. Then the air gap on the side of each burner gas tube will need to be adjusted by losening the screw on the side of the burner gas tube and adjusting the airflow until you get a nice 2 color blue flame. Tighten the screws after you make the air adjustment.
If you do NOT have the manual please respond with a model number so I can try and find you one.
The range burner orfices need to be changed to the natural gas ones. I am assuming when you say "apertures" you are talking about the burner orfices. If so then you have already changed the range burner orfices. There is also a orfice that usually needs to be replaced for the oven burner and top broiler burner (if you have a top broiler). And then there is usally a pressure adjustment required on the appliance gas regulator. This is usually adjusted by simply removing the regulator cap and turning over the spring tension plug inside and then re-installing the plug and cap.
are basically two types of ranges to deal with:
sealed top burners, which are pretty much the standard today,
and the conventional, 'non-sealed' ones. While
they operate in much the same way, their conversion is
usually different. There are still a few ranges that use adjustable
sealed burner orifices, but most are 'fixed' and must
be individually replaced to convert each burner from one
fuel to another.
(An orifice is simply a small brass fitting with a specifically sized
hole very accurately drilled through it, and, if adjustable, has
a provision to change the size of this hole by turning closed
a threaded portion). Either
way, basically what you're doing when going from natural
gas to LP is changing to a smaller orifice to allow for the
higher pressure supplied by the 'bottled' gas (The available energy
in each ft of gas is different too, but for our purpose here
that's not important). Natural gas supplies typically run around
a pressure of 5.5 inches water column, while LP runs at
twice that pressure, averaging around 11 inches.
The orifice through
which the gas travels to the burner must be smaller to accommodate
this difference. Adjustable
orifices are simply 'snugged' down, clockwise, with a
1/2 inch open-end wrench, to convert them. Nearly all oven burners
use these too - more about that in a minute. Fixed
orifices are replaced, and the good news is: the LP parts are
usually included with the new range. On some brands (GE being
one), the unused set is
attached to a storage point on the stove,
and this is a great idea. This way, they can't get lost, and if
you ever want to convert
back, there they are! The
not-so-good news: these little top burner orifices very often require
a metric wrench to remove & install. And some can't be changed
without a very slender wrench or nut driver.
Before you get too involved, check to see if the natural gas orifices are still with the range. Usually, when the conversion is done, the person who converts the range puts the original natural gas orifices into the holder which contained the LP ones, then replaces it. Look for an inch and a half long metal strip holding the four brass orifices held on by one screw very near the range gas regulator. (the regulator is the part the gas line connects to on the range) Also, look for the conversion instructions in the original installation and set up instructions, or attached to a sheet of paper on the back of the range. You will need to change the plunger in the regulator (Unscrew the cap, flip the plunger around, and replace) and turn the orifice spud on the bake and broiler burners three full turns counter-clockwise also. (using a 1/2 inch open end wrench, counting twelve 1/4 turns) Orifices will require a 7mm or 9/32 inch nut driver or socket to change. The orifices are different for the simmer, regular, and high output burners. (have a "I", "II" and "III" marked on them to help identify them, respectively.) The left two burners are both "regular output" burners, and use the same orifices.
I have fix that problem before, the oven heat is soficating the top burners, you will have to adjust top burners with the oven on, so that they will light by them selfs.Or put a shield under the cook top section on the back, so that the heat will not come to the burners where they get the oxigen.
ON MOST RANGES, THE REGULATOR HAS A SMALL LEVER THAT WILL SHUT OFF THE GAS TO THE OVEN BURNER IF IT IS IN THE WRONG POSITION. THE REGULATOR IS THE ITEM THAT THE GAS LINE IS ATTACHED TO. THE SMALL LEVER SHOULD BE POINTING OUT AWAY FROM THE REGULATOR AND NOT LAYING DOWN AGAINST IT. I'M ASSUMING THAT THE IGNITOR WAS GLOWING. THAT IS WHAT RAISED THE TEMP UP TO 193.
ANOTHER POSSIBILITY IS THAT THE IGNITOR IS WEAK. IT SUPPLIES CURRENT TO THE SAFETY VALVE TO OPEN THE VALVE. FOR A ROUND IGNITOR, IT SHOULD BE 2.8 AMPS OF CURRENT. FOR A FLAT IGNITOR IT SHOULD BE 3.2 AMPS. USE A CLAMP ON AMP PROBE AROUND ONE WIRE TO THE IGNITOR WITH THE OVEN ON TO SEE HOW MUCH AMPERAGE IS BEING PULLED BY THE IGNITOR.
You could be correct in your assumptions.
There should be a set of small brass nozzles included wirh your installation instructions. these are for the burners and will have to be changed. There is also a gas regulator that attaches between the gas line and your range, there should be a large brass hut on one side. the nut is removed and a peg on the underside has to be flipped over to convert the regulator to LP.
There should be instructions included in your installation manual or contact GE for the parts and instructions if you do not have them.