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Gas range top burners hard to light...

I have a new GE JGP940SEKSS range that I installed yesterday. The regulator was lost, so I purchased a GE WB19K5019. This deliveres 4" natural gas to the stove. The two front burners are larger and light quickly off of the sparker. The two smaller burners in the back also have a very good spark, but they are very slow to light, sometimes not lighting at all. I have checked the burner gas deflector caps to see if there is a notch that needs to be placed towards the spark, but they are symmetrical, and can only be inserted in two rotations (180 deg apart). There appears to be no difference in ease of lighting depending on cap orientation. I have attempted to adjust the flame set screw (for low flame set point) a little bit and that does not seem to help. Where do I go from here? Thanks..

Posted by NM_Shooter on

  • NM_Shooter Aug 31, 2007

    Thanks.. but this is Nat Gas using Nat Gas.

    -f-

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Gas burners use propane or natural gas...refer to the manual to see what it takes and sometimes you have a switch to select the proper gas. you can call a gas man to confirm this and correctly tell you whats going on. but he will propably make a trip. good luck

Posted on Aug 31, 2007

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GE gas range on propane, using propane jets, the burner regulator knob has little effect on heat output. Is this a gas burner valve issue?
You also need to set the regulator to LP. The symptom described is an indication that the regulator is still set to natural gas. The manual should tell you how. As I remember, there is a cap on top of the regulator that is removed to allow access to a retainer that needs to be turned over so the "LP" is facing up. Check your manual or look it up online

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My brand new GE Profile gas range produces a black soothe. All my pots are covered with in black. How do I fix this problem
Hi. Usually when this occurs on a brand new unit the user is using a natural gas configured range on LPG. You may have to get a NG to LPG conversion kit to reconfigure the regulator. On most newer regulators it is a matter of unswcreing the plastic side cap and flipping the inner plunger over. The conversion process is in the installation instructions. Additionally the Bake and Broil burners for the oven will also need adjusted per instructions. There are usually orifices in a package in a NEW range for the conversion of the cook top burner control valves. Then the air gap on the side of each burner gas tube will need to be adjusted by losening the screw on the side of the burner gas tube and adjusting the airflow until you get a nice 2 color blue flame. Tighten the screws after you make the air adjustment.

If you do NOT have the manual please respond with a model number so I can try and find you one.

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those with sealed top burners, which are pretty much the standard today, and the conventional, 'non-sealed' ones.
While they operate in much the same way, their conversion is usually different. There are still a few ranges that use adjustable sealed burner orifices, but most are 'fixed' and must be individually replaced to convert each burner from one fuel to another.

(An orifice is simply a small brass fitting with a specifically sized hole very accurately drilled through it, and, if adjustable, has a provision to change the size of this hole by turning closed a threaded portion).
Either way, basically what you're doing when going from natural gas to LP is changing to a smaller orifice to allow for the higher pressure supplied by the 'bottled' gas (The available energy in each ft of gas is different too, but for our purpose here that's not important). Natural gas supplies typically run around a pressure of 5.5 inches water column, while LP runs at twice that pressure, averaging around 11 inches.

The orifice through which the gas travels to the burner must be smaller to accommodate this difference.
Adjustable orifices are simply 'snugged' down, clockwise, with a 1/2 inch open-end wrench, to convert them. Nearly all oven burners use these too - more about that in a minute.
Fixed orifices are replaced, and the good news is: the LP parts are usually included with the new range. On some brands (GE being one), the unused set is attached to a storage point on the stove, and this is a great idea. This way, they can't get lost, and if you ever want to convert back, there they are!
The not-so-good news: these little top burner orifices very often require a metric wrench to remove & install. And some can't be changed without a very slender wrench or nut driver.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

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Before you get too involved, check to see if the natural gas orifices are still with the range. Usually, when the conversion is done, the person who converts the range puts the original natural gas orifices into the holder which contained the LP ones, then replaces it. Look for an inch and a half long metal strip holding the four brass orifices held on by one screw very near the range gas regulator. (the regulator is the part the gas line connects to on the range) Also, look for the conversion instructions in the original installation and set up instructions, or attached to a sheet of paper on the back of the range. You will need to change the plunger in the regulator (Unscrew the cap, flip the plunger around, and replace) and turn the orifice spud on the bake and broiler burners three full turns counter-clockwise also. (using a 1/2 inch open end wrench, counting twelve 1/4 turns) Orifices will require a 7mm or 9/32 inch nut driver or socket to change. The orifices are different for the simmer, regular, and high output burners. (have a "I", "II" and "III" marked on them to help identify them, respectively.) The left two burners are both "regular output" burners, and use the same orifices.

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