Won't Power Up

This is a common symptom of failing filter capacitors in the power supply board. Over time as the capacitors start to fail they are not able to buildup and hold a charge like they should. The worse they get the longer the start time will be until one day the unit will not start up at all. The repair is easy to do, it just requires replacing the 5 bad capacitors on the power supply board. Here is a link to a parts kit that shows what needs to be replaced on the board.

http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_33_68&products_id=222

I hope this helps,
BuddyMc

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the unit will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

Backlight related video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XoF6QZ1dmw&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at www.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the unit will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

Backlight related video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XoF6QZ1dmw&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at www.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.

The solution I am about to provide normally is for units that don't turn on, but if your power supply is failing, the solution still applies to you!

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors in the power section.
Any caps in any sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on properly, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.

replace the power cord, do not use tv till you replace the power cord ok, you will eventually short circuit the tv or even worse blow the internal components

The start up problem is common and will only get worse. Call Samsung as these monitors have a 3-year warranty. No receipt? They will accept your word regarding your purchase. I have two that failed exactly the same way. I called 1-800-SAMSUNG and they gave me the choice of an exchange pair sent directly to my house (requiring a temporary credit card deposit) or by having the exchange pair sent to the UPS store where I would swap out my bad units. No receipt. They merely asked me when I purchased it so they could have it for their records. Manufacture dates such as your (March '06) and a purchase of September '06 are not far fetched at all. .

if this happens even if your laptop is plugged in to a power source it could be that your battery is dead and you need to replace it

Your monitor is slowly dying. Get ready for the eventuality and start saving some bucks for replacement.