It will not continue to heat up

Question edited for clarity.

That is likely a failed heating element, failed thermostat, or worse case scenario, a failed control board.

https://www.google.com/search?q=prolectrix+soup+maker+not+heating+up

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It makes cold soups like Gazpacho and Vichyssoise, so make sure the heating / cooking function is set.

If it is, ask Russel Hobbs where your local service centre is to diagnose and replace the element.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Russell+Hobbs+soup+maker

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That sounds like it is overheating. Does the red power light flash before it powers itself off? Units like this with an enclosed motor often have an internal fan as part of the motor and vents on the base to drive out the heat.

Various other ideas here and a link to Ninja Kitchen Support



https://www.google.com/search?q=ninja+blender+starts+at+low+power+and+then+stops+when+increasing+the+power



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Sometimes they can be soldered to a circuit board. If it is inline, it could look like a small metal tube with what looks like white porcelain on one end where the wire comes out. If this is present, it is a circuit breaker similar to a fuse but instead of blowing with an electrical overload, it is sensitive to heat like from an over heating motor. This may be glued to a solid part of the motor like the steel plate lamination and must be replaced. These don't reset. These can also be completely inside a piece of plastic tubing as their leads are not insulated. Good luck.

plastic can be heat welded using a soldering iron
there are youtube movies on how to do it
if you go google and type in --welding plastic --there will be pages on how to--

Kitchen Aid blenders are used for chopping/blending not heating.

If fuse is good and light is on, then you are getting power. Most likely and very very commonly the motor is fried. I have done it myself with 3 of these things.

Check the dryer dual-breakers in the house electrical panel--push off, then on. If no help, check for ~230 volts AC at the two slanted slots in the dryer power socket. If ok, the problem is likely the heating element(s) in back of the drum are burned out or the internal thermostat is open. To remove the drum, remove the top (push a thin putty knife rearward at each front corner to release latches) and then the front panel. The belt must be released (from inside the lower back) and the rear center screws of the drum removed. When the drum is removed, it gives access to the elements and temp control switches. Be sure to vacuum out all air passages and wash the lint filter in hot water and detergent to remove fabric softener deposits. Don't forget the air exit hose to the outside. Replace the belt on reassembly if heat damaged or badly worn. Hope this helps!

Much of these types of problems have to do with heating elements, air pumps, or thermistors. What typeof machine do you have? We can give more detailed info w/a bit more information.

Check the motor brushes. They may be worn out. Also, since the 1980s, many electric motors have a thermal fuse in them. This unit "blows" when it gets to a certain temperature.

This fuse looks like a 22-caliber bullet and its pointed end is usually colored. If you have an ohmmeter or continuity checker, see if current will pass through the fuse. If not, you can try to replace it. Most times, the fuse is attached with crimp-on connectors. Replacements can be soldered in, if you put a clip-on heat sink between the fuse body and the soldering iron.