Water dispenser spontaneously erupts when making ice
We recently had the power board for our water/ice dispenser go up in smoke (literal smoke). During the time we were waiting for replacement parts, the ice maker still worked, but with each fill cycle, about 1/2 cup of water was 'dispensed' just as if we had pushed the water lever. After receiving our replacement power board and installing it (along with a new micro-switch), the ice maker still behaves the same way! Also, now when we intentionally dispense water, some appears to be flowing into the ice maker--enough to overflow the mold and start leaking down through the drive assembly and out the ice dispensing outlet. Could the original problem that burned out our power board also have damaged the water inlet solenoid? What would cause water to always go both to the water dispenser and the ice maker?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have found that my ice maker makes ice, but i can not dispense, water or ice, control board good, micro switch good only thing left is reversing solenoid. i have just ordered one once i replace it ill get back to you
Problems with Ice Maker/Water Dispenser If you are not getting ice, make sure the water valve is open and the ice shutoff switch or arm is not in the "Off"
position. Inspect the ice ejector arm for blockage and remove any trapped ice with a plastic spoon. If you recently
emptied the ice container, remember that it takes your refrigerator up to 24 hours to produce ice.
Low water pressure is the major cause of problems with the water/ice door dispenser. Low water pressure can cause
inadequate water flow and small or hollow ice cubes. Check the water line for kinks that may interfere with water
flow and make sure the water valve is open. A dirty water filter can color the water and ice cubes, impede water
flow or cause water to have an off taste so remove, clean and replace it.
If water is leaking from the door dispenser, make sure the water glass remains under the spout until the water
shuts off completely. If you recently changed the water filter, air that was left in the line may cause water to
spurt from the dispenser. To flush the water line, let water run from the dispenser for approximately three minutes
or until you draw out 1.5 gallons of water. Try to find a container that will fit under the dispenser spout so you
do not have to start and stop to empty the container.
The front touch pad board /panel which you are referring is called dispenser board.To access the dispenser board assembly, click this link below:---
The dispenser board removal procedure is mentioned at the last on the link instructions.--------
But the engineer at your place has pointed you to right direction.The main control board is most probably the cause of problem.One more important thing.There are many other users too facing same problem with there ge side by side refrigerators.This problem occurs in many ge model refrigerators.
There was service letter released by Ge for this problem.Click this link, to read the letter:---
You can get
required parts from online sites like:
--- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.
I'm assuming you are saying there is no ice and water being dispensed, but that the ice maker is producing ice.
Actual ice maker operation is independent of the fountain which is for dispensing only.
The power is checked at the fountain board on wires Red/Black and White. The door must be closed when doing this check as power goes through the door switch. If no power is present, check the same wires at the connector under the upper door hinge cover.
The next check would be Red/Black to Blue while depressing the actuator pad button.
Outputs off the board are Pink to auger motor, Black to fountain water valve, other Black to fountain light, Violet to cube solenoid, the two brown wires go to the ice chute door solenoid.
The ice maker can be checked by removing the plastic cover up front. Check test points L to N for 120VAC. Short test points T and H to cycle the ice maker. Make sure it does not have ice or water in the mold already, or it will run over.
Of course last but not least, check water to the refrigerator. It is a dual valve and unlikely both solenoids could fail at the same time.
hi george i will try to help firts i want you to try this. pull off the bottom grill or kick plate and make sure that the wire harness is connected and not loose they get loose a lot on this brand. now if they are look at the water line conector but the bottom hinge disconect it for there and close the door and ask for wtr at the lever if you get water the you have frozen line inside door if no water then check the resevour inside the refrigerator and make sure is not frozen if it is ok then if you model hasa mother board at the back repl when both ice and wtr go out that is usually the problem i see it every day ok take the model number with when you buy the part sothey can give the right board ok.
could be the dispenser board or the main board. hard to sort out without a meter. most likely the dispenser board but i have seen a dispenser board go bad and smoke the main board if that is the case you can damage the new component so check out the cost on the parts
Your problems are the power board for sure. I have the same refrigerator and have read dozens of forums and advise pages looking for answers. If you let the problem countinue your fridge will completely stop cooling and all your food will be trash as has happened to me.
Symptoms: Fan in the back starts to make click or flopping sound as it tries to start up. Ice despenser doesent despense ice. water works sometimes. Eventually you notice your food defrosting partially and then refreezing as the defrost timer stops working which is controlled by the power board. Light dims and pulses when you hold the Ice despencer in. If you remove the light for the dispencer your water will work fine as long as the fan isnt making the clicking noise. Fan will eventually start up and run.
This has happened to us twice. The first time the motherboard was replaced and it just happened again today. I'm furious that this is the 4th breakdown in a year on a refrigerator that costs approx $7000. I intend to demand a refund as I can't feel safe leaving the house with this refrigerator in place. Replacing the motherboard will fix the problem temporarily but these boards fail regularly by all accounts. If it happens again, opening the door will stop the water/ice immediately while you figure out your next step. Good luck.