Dryer stopped blowing hot air. still blows air but not heated. opened up the front panel fooled the switch but burner does not come on nor does any gas come out. yes the gas is hooked up and turned on ?????????

did you clean the vent line?THAT COULD MAKE IT RUN HOT THE AIR CAN'T BLOW OUTSIDE,BUT WITH THE DRYER HAVING HEAT WHEN IT STARTS AND THEN AFTER LIKE 10 MINUTES NO HEAT IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE BAD GAS COILS,WHEN THE COILS ARE STARTING TO FAIL THEY WILL WORK FOR LIKE THE FIRST 10 TO 20 MINUTES AND WHEN THEY HEAT UP NO GAS,WHEN THE COOL THEY WILL WORK AGAIN,I WOULD CHANGE THE COILS AND CLEAN OUT THE DRYER AND VENT LINE,THIS SHOULD BE DONE ONCE A YEAR SO YOU DON'T HAVE A FIRE AND YOUR CLOTHES WILL DRY ON TIME,EVERYONE THINKS SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE DRYER AND ALL THAT HAPPENS IS THE VENT LINE AND THE DUCT WHERE THE LINT FILTER SLIDES INTO FILLS WITH LINT AND THE AIR CAN'T BLOW AROUND GOOD ANYMORE,ALSO WITH A SHOP VAC VAC UP THE LINT WHERE THE BURNER AND MOTOR IS AND THEN SET THE VAC UP TO BLOW AND BLOW THE MOTOR AND GAS BURNER OUT,DO THIS AND YOU'LL HARDLY HAVE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE DRYER

please follow the next step and fix it. God bless you
Power From The House

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dry to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switc

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replace the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

There is a device in the circuitry for the heating element which shuts off power to the heating element when the dryer gets above a certain temperature which is ealsily reached with a clooged vent hose. This device, a thermal limit switch or thermal fuse, cannot be reset, it has to be replaced.

If you want to do this yourself, let me know -- if not, you will need to arrange for someone to repair the dryer. The device costs about $20 -- a service tech will probably charge up to $150 for the repair.

Charlie

Hi, open the back panel. You will find a black cutout switch with a red button on it. Press the red button to reset the heating mechanism. Close the back panel and test the machine.

I find that quite often the ignitor is out of alignment or the glass window is covered with lint.
a gas dryer blows air through a burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low or no heat and slow drying of the clothes.
There are two common styles of ignitors, glow ignitors and spark ignitors. The ignitor ignites the gas either by heating up and glowing, or by sparking. If the ignitor fails, the dryer will not heat.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working.

Hi, If you use the automatic dry cycle, there needs to be heat in order for the timer to advance.
Remove the little cap in the front lower left corner and start the dryer. The ignitor should glow for about 15 seconds and then the gas should ignite. If there is no glow from the ignitor and the fuse is good, you will need to remove the front panel and check the senser on the burner, the ignitor, and the thermostats.
I hope this helps you. If you need more assistance on this issue, please let me know.

Vic

Check your heat sensors, one or more must be OPEN.

If you can turn it on and have the door open, hold the door switch in and see if you have a glow from the heating element. If not, your element is broken. That is if it is an electric dryer. If it is a gas dryer you need to check the pilot light or the thermo sensor.

To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.

Electric or gas?