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If you have enough room behind the stud wall install 1" rigid foam tape seams and then use the thickest possible roxsul insulation to fill the studs. Or axe the foam and install 6mil plastic on warm side of the wall after insulating tape all seams when done.
I found 2 helpful manuals from brother that you may want to checkout. they explain exactly how to install the cartridge: http://www.ptouchdirect.com/ptouch/manual/PT1000.pdf http://www.ptouchdirect.com/ptouch/manual/PT85.pdf
You are absolutely right! The copper pipes should have insulation them. When they don't and they get cold in hot weather, they sweat and then freeze. Tubular Foam Insulation is what you need. Most home centers carry it. Once you cut and install it, be sure to wrap it in a good quality Duct Tape.
when you say "insulate the line" I assume you mean water line. the only thing that you can do is to use "heat tape" and then over that you would place fiberglass insultation and silver tape to keep the insulation on the tubing. If you live in a climate that isn't too cold and has a short season, the built in thermostat on the heat tape will prevent it from "costing you a fortune" mobile home tubing is often insulated this way and its not very expensive to maintain an above freezing temp.
This is probably from the frozen water problem on these refrigerators. GE has a problem with the insulation that was used in the doors up to about 2006. Hotpoint has the same problem. I don't know if newer GE-made refrigerators have fixed this, but GE sells a heater to install to keep the pipe from freezing. What has happened is that the water has frozen in the door approximately five inches down the tube. It freezes because the insulation has become compromised (ie, full of moisture) and no longer insulates well enough. People have reported this after a short time of use like 1-5 years. Mine started after about 4 years.
The easiest way to thaw it is to turn the refrigerator off and open the
door. Wait a half hour or so and the pipe will thaw out. Another way is
to take a hair dryer blower to the pipe - don't let it get too hot so
that the pipe melts! This takes just about as long, but the door can
remain closed - shorter time if you open the door.
The heater fix from GE just puts off the problem, eventually even the heater won't keep it from freezing. If you are willing to just put off the problem, I suggest taking a piece of fine copper wire about 6 inches long about the diameter of a twist tie (I have used twist ties but the wire is steel and rusts) and insert it into the water tube on the refrigerator after you thaw it out. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2" of wire sticking out so that it picks up heat and delivers it down the wire to the freezing area.
The real repair is to replace the insulation that has gone bad, but that includes taking the door apart or drilling a hole in the door, removing the insulation and stuffing some new insulation in there. I don't recommend this because there is too much chance that you will damage the stuff inside the door. So the other way is to put new insulation on the outside of the inner surface of the door. One person used a flexible Styrofoam sheet (3/8 - 1/2" thick) that was large enough to cover the flat part of the inside of the door. Tape the insulation to door using something like RV roof repair tape (it is white and will adhere mightily to the plastic pieces and the foam and doesn't look half bad). When installing this sheet of material - make certain that the door can close without squashing it. Cut the piece long enough to reach from the area below the ice cube spout to the top of the top shelf.
I have not actually used this insulating method described, but a person on another forum has and it works. The method with the wire works also - I use it on my Hotpoint side-by-side. The other thing to do is raise the temperature in the refrigerator using a lower setting number. I have mine set on 2 rather than 5 that it was set on when I got it. The temperature in the refrigerator should be 35-36 F and the freezer above 0 F. At the 5 setting I had 32 F and -3 F.
Insulation only slows down the transfer of heat (cold), it does not stop it. If it is below freezing and the water in any pipe is not moving, it will eventually freeze. Most major industrial supply houses like McMaster-Carr or Grainger in the US, carry pipe tracing tape. It comes in various lengths and you secure it to the pipe under the insulation, plug it in and many types have integral thermostats that keep the pipe above freezing. If you have a washing machine, you will have to consider the lines to the washer valves, both hot & cold and any other areas in the washer that may hold water like the pump and the discharge hoses.
Was this washer always outdoors?
It might help to raise the temp a little but GE is known to have that problem. They make a special heater to install to prevent it. $250.00 Or a little cheaper solution is to tape insulation to the inside of the door at the area where it freezes. Or if you complain enough to GE they may replace to door since they know about the problem and have replaced some door for free.