Xm6660 My amp comes on for maybe 2 seconds and the yellow light that says thermal comes on and goes off. I dont get any sound. This anp is on my highs, but I dont get any sound out of the amp on my subs either..

The heater element maybe burnt . At the control module connector pin's H & G . yellow with blue trace wire And blue with a orange trace wire , use a ohm meter an check continuity between these two wires .

This is a tiny amp good for practice at low volume levels. You are likely overdriving it and the power amp chip goes into thermal protect. If you volume level is much louder than a small boom box, you are driving it too hard. Best to get a bigger amp.

You can fix it yourself. The CPU was to hot and the solder has come off. Bad part is the solder is under the CPU and must be heated up. It is lead free so it needs more heat then lead and you need to add flux. I would start by getting the board out. Remove the thermal paste off the CPU. Add flux with a flux pen. You want to get the flux under the CPU so you might want to tip it on its side. After you have a good amount of flux under the CPU you want to start to heat the parts around the CPU. I would use a heat gun with temp. settings. You first want to heat around the CPU to keep solder on the other parts from cracking. You dont want to over heat the parts. After you preheat the board you want to heat the CPU. It needs to be around 400 or 500 degs f. a good 15 or 30 sec. keep moving the heat gun. After heating the CPU you want to start the cool down. Same as warming up the board but you want the board to cool down slow. After all this you want to add New thermal paste to the CPU. This helps transfer from the CPU. This is a must because your PS3 is overheating as it is. After you do all this some people say it only works for 2 to 6 weeks. Its all on how you fix the board and how good of a job you did. I would back up your hard drive. Then hope for the best!! good luck and i hope this helps you out.

have you ever had the playstation taken apart? Maybe you need to replace the Thermal past on the processors. It is due to an overheating problem. I have one right now that does that.

Cavity
1 20 amp yellow hazard flashers
2 10 amp red heated mirrors
3 20 amp yellow body lights
4 not used
5 20 amp yellow windshield wipers
6 20 amp yellow turn signal lights
7 10 amp red radio
8 not used
9 7.5 amp violet illumination lights
10 2 amp pink left tail lights
11 2 amp right tail lights
12 not used
13 20 amp yellow rear window wiper/washer
14 2 amp pink speed control
15 10 amp red gauges, warning lights
16 not used
17 10 amp red left low beam headlight
18 10 amp red right low beam headlight
19 20 amp yellow stop lights
20 20 amp yellow rear a/c heat
21 20 amp yellow fog lights
22 20 amp yellow park lights
23 20 amp yellow battery
24 20 amp yellow back up lights
25 circuit breaker power windows,power vent windows
26 30 amp lt. green a/c heater blower motor
27 circuit breaker power door locks
28 not used

PS3 has overheated and the thermal compound between the cpu/gpu and heat sync need to be replaced. the gpu and cpu may need to be reflowed as well. Had the same problem and fixed mine. The thermal compound was pretty much gone when i opened up the system. Also dont keep your ps3 on its side leave it flat this will help keep the compound from moving as much.

I have had my WS-65511 fail like this, first at 4 years, second 2 weeks later, then 3rd time yesterday (4/14/2009). In past, the tech replaced a thermal sensor p/n 299P313010A (but Mitsubishi says that part is not for WS-65511 and that it does not have a thermal sensor - go figure). It is a white rectangle with about 30 pins in 2 rows and is soldered onto a board in the TV. List price is about $25. Might be your problem.

Check your ground wire that's more than likely the problem.Try grounding it in a different spot make sure your ground is a paint and dirt free surface also make sure its directly metal to metal.

The yellow wire goes to + (hot) 12 volt constant, red wire goes to ignition switch, Hook up your amp together with the red wire
(switched) and the amp will come on with the ignition switch.
Blue and white wire is for the power antenna.
Leadispenser

There are some things I want you to check, 1) Make sure your ground is good and I mean very good, 0 ohms resistance to the negative battery terminal 2) Make sure that your AMP is grounded to that ground point you checked in step 1. 3) Make sure that your power supply B+ wire is one continuous run no taps or spliced connections. 4) Your speakers and woofers are all properly impedance matched to your amplifier (if your amp is 8 ohms then your combined speakers impedance must be 8 ohms total). 5) voltage regulation to amplifier is good. 6) Check all connections and ground points again After these items are done power on your unit and then see if the problem happens again, if it does the issue is inside of the unit, one of the internal components has gone bad and you will need a schematic, a multimeter, and an audio tracer to work on the AMP with.