Events leading up to zero response or no power indication on touch panel was incomplete cycles on intermittant basis (not often - two or three times over previous month). I definitely have power coming to unit as measurable by the appropriate AC voltage at the door micro switches. Intend to return new board and have the old board tested against the remote possiblility of new board being being bad. If the boards are good is it possible the touch panel set up is faulty?Events leading up to zero response or no power indication on touch panel was incomplete cycles on intermittant basis (not often - two or three times over previous month). I definitely have power coming to unit as measurable by the appropriate AC voltage at the door micro switches. Intend to return new board and have the old board tested against the remote possiblility of new board being being bad. If the boards are good is it possible the touch panel set up is faulty?
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640 Answers
Re:
YOU DEFINITLY HAVE POWER COMING TO THE UNIT?IS THERE A TRANSFORMER?IF YOU HAVE THE CORRECT VOLTAGE AND THE KEYSWITCH (TOUCH PAD)PLUGS INTO THE BOARD YOU REPLACED THE KEYSWITCH IS BAD.HOW DID THE PROBLEM START?
if theres no transformer stepping down the voltage to the board thats what i would say but you can get brand new boards that are bad couldnt tell you how many times it happened to me.if theres no transformer stepping down the voltage to the board thats what i would say but you can get brand new boards that are bad couldnt tell you how many times it happened to me.
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I can provide you with some general troubleshooting steps that you can follow:
1. Check Power Supply: Ensure that the dryer is properly plugged into a functioning power outlet. Verify that the outlet is providing a consistent 220VAC supply by using a multimeter or testing the outlet with another device.
2. Inspect Power Cord: Examine the power cord for any visible damage or loose connections. Make sure it is securely plugged into the dryer and the power outlet.
3. Test Door Switch: Although you mentioned testing the door switch, double-check its functionality. Ensure that the door is fully closed and that the switch is properly engaging when the door is shut. Use a multimeter to check if the switch is providing continuity when closed.
4. Examine Control Panel and Timer: Inspect the control panel for any signs of damage or loose connections. Ensure that the timer is set to an appropriate setting and that the controls are responding when adjusted. If there are visible issues or no response, it might indicate a problem with the control panel or timer mechanism.
5. Seek Professional Assistance: If you have performed the above steps and the issue persists, it is recommended to contact a professional appliance technician or the manufacturer's customer support. They will have the expertise to diagnose and repair any complex electrical or component-related issues with your Defy Tumbledryer.
When reaching out to customer support or a technician, provide them with the model number and a detailed description of the problem, including the lack of LED indicator response and the steps you have already taken to troubleshoot. This information will help them provide you with the most accurate assistance.
The body control system consists of the following 3 modules:
• The Dash Integration Module (DIM)
• The Instrument Panel Module (IPM)
• The Rear Integration Module (RIM)
Each of the 3 body control modules integrate a number of functional systems under the control of a single module. Each module is connected to the Class 2 serial data circuit, many of the control functions are implemented by Class 2 messages.
What system (S) are you having problems with ?
Rear Integration Module (RIM)
The various RIM inputs and outputs are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the RIM electrical schematics.
The RIM functions include the following:
• Automatic level control
• CIGAR relay control
• Class 2 communication requiring RIM interaction
• Content theft deterrent
• Fuel door control
• Fuel level sensor input
• Heated seat control
• HVAC blower control
• LK/CYL relay control
• Park brake relay control
• Rear defog relay control
• Rear park assist chime control
• Retained accessory power (RAP) relay control
• Reverse relay control
• Transmission shift inhibit
• Trunk release relay control
• Various controls for the interior lamps
Instrument Panel Integration Module (IPM)
The various IPM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding areas as indicated on the IPM electrical schematics.
The IPM functions include the following:
• 54 volt VF display input
• Ambient light sensor input
• Class 2 communication requiring IPM interaction
• Fog lamp switch inputs
• Front HVAC air delivery controls
• Front HVAC sensor inputs
• Front HVAC temperature controls
• Fuel door and rear compartment lid release switch input
• Hazard switch input
• HUD active control
• Instrument panel lamps dimmer switch input
• Ignition switch headlight control
• Interior lamps switch input
• Key in ignition switch input
• Traction control switch input
• Twilight sentinel delay input
Dash Integration Module (DIM)
The various DIM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the DIM electrical schematics.
The DIM functions include the following:
• Class 2 communication requiring DIM interaction.
• Control of exterior lamps.
• Control of front fog lights.
• Control of the headlights.
• Headlamps on with wiper input.
• Hood ajar switch input w/export.
• Horn relay control.
• Interior lamps incandescent dimming.
• Low side temperature for HVAC compressor.
• Power moding control over Class 2 serial data circuit.
• Reverse lockout solenoid control.
• Steering wheel controls input.
• Storage of the clock settings and, sending a message out on the class 2 serial data circuit in response to requests from other modules.
Did you have a power outage recently? They are notorious for damaging circuit boards--usually about 3-4 weeks after the power interruption strange things will either start happening or *not* happening with appliances due to damaged computer chips on the boards starting to fail. Your symptoms indicate either a blown user interface(push button panel) or a defective main control board(board with the brains on it) or both!
Error CodeConditionCheck/RepairShop PartsClean light blinks 7 timesHeater circuit failure. Control didn't detect the expected rise in water temperature.Check the heating element and related components (wiring and control board) in that circuit.
Heating element, Electronic control board, Thermistor, Circuit wiring
Console light blinks rapidlyThe control detects a stuck button on the control panel.A failed control panel or a malfunctioning electronic control board can cause this code. Check the buttons on the control panel using a volt/ohm meter. In most cases, the control panel must be replaced. If that doesn't solve the problem, the electronic control board might be at fault.
Control panel, Electronic control board
Start/Resume light blinks slowlyIf the dishwasher door is opened or power is interrupted during the cycle, the dishwasher won't start again until the door is detected as closed and the Start/Resume button is pressed.Check the door latch and switch assembly. A failure in the Start/Resume button also can cause this problem.
Door switch assembly, Control panel, Electronic control board
Clean light stays onThe dishwasher won't start a new cycle unless it detects that the door opened after the previous cycle.Turn off power to the dishwasher by shutting off the breaker and restarting. If that does not work, the door switch assembly is stuck and must be replaced.
Door switch assembly
Control lock LED is on but not accepting key pressesAccidentally turned on or control detected keypad problem.Press the Heated Dry key for 5 seconds to turn off control lock feature. If that doesn't work, replace keypad.
Keypad
Sanitized LED blinks at end of cycleControl couldn't confirm that the dishes were sanitized.Check voltage to the dishwasher and the temperature of incoming water. Check the diverter motor, the heater and the OWI/thermistor.
Diverter motor, Heater, Thermistor
It could still be a plug or wire problem but if not a power problem inside the machine or a printed circuit board or other internal failure. It will not be possible to diagnose the problem without a lot more inforamtion.
The error code E41 means the control board is detecting an open door switch. It might be due to a broken wire harness, broken door lock/switch assembly, or in worst cases a faulty control board.
Unplug the machine or disconnect power. Open the washer door then look for the retaining hoop securing
the door seal around the lip of the door opening. Stretch the spring of the retaining hoop then remove it.
Carefully peel off the part of the door seal from the lip of the door opening near the
door lock/switch assembly. Remove enough of the door seal to gain
access to the door lock and switch assembly.
Remove the screws securing the door lock/switch assembly to the front panel. Once the
screws are removed, lift the door lock and switch assembly then pull it
away from the front panel.
Take the door lock/switch assembly out of the front panel then disconnect the door switch harness then short circuit the terminals by putting a jumper wire between them.
Put the door lock/switch assembly back into position in the front panel then secure it with the securing screws previously removed. Properly put the eased part
of the door seal back over the lip of the door opening then secure it
with the retaining hoop. Reconnect power and run a test cycle. Replace the door lock and switch assembly
(part #131763202) to address the problem if the washer works fine with
the door switch bypassed. If not, replace the control board.
E1 and F1 error code indicates a faulty ERC board. Disconnect power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power off to the range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power to the range has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing. Gain access inside the control panel.Disconnect the touch pad (also called keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from the ERC. Make sure there are no lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short when power is turned back on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was.Turn the power back on. Wait for an hour to see if the code comes back (usually accompanied by a beeping sound).
If code comes back, replace the ERC. If it does not, replace the touch pad.
Sounds like the control panel may be dead. If you cannot get any lights
to come on at all on the front panel, its probably a goner. You can
check the voltage coming out of the control pc board via the schematic
inside the dryer panel. I have this same exact problem. I replaced the
control board 3 times because the panel seems fine if i plug it into an
external power supply but will not work when plugged into my dryer. I
have my jumpered and running off of a circuit breaker.
The booster heat control circuit is controlled by the relay board. Visually check for loose or burnt relay contacts...
You will see the booster LED light when it calls for heat. Some newer machines have a second high limit on the right hand side of the booster tank.
It may be your control board is configured for low temp with no booster. When you power up, the display should say LX30H. If not
Pull open the upper drawer, place a magnet over the door interlock switch.
CAUTION, 220 volt power is present. be carefull what you touch.
on control board, short J5-1 and J5-2, then power up. You are in factory setup. press select on the control board to see each option on the front panel., press up arrow on control board to step up through options for each step. when done, press the off button on front panel. remove short and start up normally. With the magnet in place, AND THE DOOR CLOSED, run the machine and observe the relay board status lights.
If you want to adjust the temp set points, with the machine off, press and hold the hidden key behind the front panel logo, and press select on the control board.. Or on power up, hold the wask key..Same to adjust options as above. Press off to exit.
Events leading up to zero response or no power indication on touch panel was incomplete cycles on intermittant basis (not often - two or three times over previous month). I definitely have power coming to unit as measurable by the appropriate AC voltage at the door micro switches. Intend to return new board and have the old board tested against the remote possiblility of new board being being bad. If the boards are good is it possible the touch panel set up is faulty?
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