How can i get my amp out of safe mode?i had fior about aa year and 3 months after i bought it the watts dropped while i was driveing and know it only puts out not even half of what it use too,i had it disconected for about a week but it's still not working like the day i bought it
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I don,t no where you are reading thease articles from,I installed car audio equipment for over 40 years, Untill i retired a couple of months ago, Who ever is writeing those sort of articles does not have the slightest clue what they are talking about, It is the opposite way around, It is allway better for yor (Speakers) To handle more power then what your amp puts out, Then you will not blow the spaekers, It is best to get speakers at least 20 watts more then what your amps maximuin (RMS) Watts are, Hope this helps you out, (PS) 50 watts (RMS) Is what most people go for, It is in no means (Under) Powered.
The KAC-624 is a 40 watt x2 @ 4 ohm RMS amp. 55 watt x2 @ 2ohm. 110 watt x 1 Bridged I assume at 4 ohm. Manual does not specify. It can run 2 ohm in stereo mode but is unclear on mono impedance requirement. It can run 4 ohm mono at 110 watt but at 2 ohm?
Hi, tech specs say 1200 watts peak. what you want is RMS value and quick guide I use to comvert watts peak to Rms is divide by 3 (approx=400Wrms) Ok to drive a little harder - use 500Watt RMS amps per speaker. decision to use 1 or 2 amps depends on amp capability -use 2 x 500wrms 2 channel amps(1 per speaker bridged mode) or 1 x 1000wrms 4 channel amp (bridge 2 channels for each speaker). Whether you need to do anything about your charging system will depend largely on the capability of your alternator and the various vehicle loads that need to be supplied on a day to day basis ( use winter for worst case scenarios) as this system could be reasonably expected to consume 60 amps on large bass notes (dead giveaway is to add the fuse ratings on nominated amps). there is vast amounts of knowledge for this subject and what has been touched on here is just that