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Hi, I need to remove the rear wheels so I cn replace the brake discs and pads. Have removed bolts and jacked car up but wheel is not coming off. Is the anything else that needs removing to get the wheels off..Thanks in advance. Oh, I have a Trajet and not one of the listed Hyundai's..
Neil
Many thanks for advice....Just was not sure if there was something I was missing...Not had Trajet for long...Will give it a go...Thanks again.Many thanks for advice....Just was not sure if there was something I was missing...Not had Trajet for long...Will give it a go...Thanks again.
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If you removed all the lug nuts then it could be just some dirt/rust holding the wheel on. With some swift hard kicks to the tire it should come off.
I have had some people that did off roading and their wheels were really stuck. I had to break out a large mallet and give it a couple whacks to get theirs off.
Hi sounds like you got the alloy wheel corrosion
problem although it sometimes affects steel wheels
make sure the car is adequately supported, then you need a large rubber mallet to bash the wheel rims off.
if you havent got a mallet then use a normal hammer but with a piece of wood between wheel and same.
on no account hit the wheel directly with the steel hammer!
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jack up rear wheel making sure you place a choc in front of front wheel, remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper there will be 2 bolts at back of brake disc you will then be able to undo then centre nut to remove the disc , if replacing disc it is best practise to replace both sides and renew the pads at the same time
Brake Pads should be replaced in pairs, the front will wear faster than the rear so usually the front will need to be replaced more often.
First Here is a list of what you will need. This list mainly applies to disc brakes but I have included a link for how to replace drum brakes with graphic images. All parts can be purchased from an auto parts or hardware store.
New Brake Pads
C-Clamp
Small amount of Brake/Caliper Grease (usually comes in a small packet)
A can of Brake Cleaner
Car-jack and lug wrench
A small bungee cord
Wrench/Socket/Allen Wrench (depending on your car)
A hammer (mainly for drum brakes)
Lossen the lug nuts.
Jack up the vehicle.
Remove the tire from the vehicle.
Use the brake cleaner to spray the brake pads and disc taking care not to spray plastic parts on the vehicle. This is done to partly protect yourself from the brake dust and to also clean everything and help remove rust.
The following steps are for disc brakes, for drum brakes skip to step 15.
Next, remove the caliper bolts, the heads will be located on the inside side of the caliper, the wrench needed will vary base on vehicle make and model.
Slide the caliper and brake pads off of the disc.
Remove the outer brake pad.
The bungee cord may be used to keep the caliper from hanging freely. Do not allow the brake line to be bent or hold the caliper itself.
Use the C-Clamp to slowly depress the inner brake pad as far as it can go. If any brake fluid leaks out of the reservoir, it may need to be replaced once brakes are replaced. Make sure to press the brake pedal several times between each tire having brakes replaced to help keep brake fluid from leaking. Some brake fluid may be siphoned beforehand to prevent loosing any fluid.
If the disc is to be replaced, do so now, spray the new disc with brake cleaner to remove any residue. The disc should be replaced if grooves or chips are found on it, or if it is outside of thickness specifications of the manufacturer.
Grease the caliper bolts.
Put the new brake pads on the caliper and slide the brake pads and caliper back onto the disc and insert the bolts.
Skip to Step 18 for disc brakes.
For drum brakes, use the hammer, brake cleaner, and possibly a pry bar to remove the drum which should slide directly off.
Use the brake cleaner to spray the brake pads and other parts within the drum to clean and prevent dust from being breathed in.
First, you have to get a ratchet set. You may also need some everyday tools that you should have lying around the house. You also need a trolley jack and a car stand to go under your car to stop it from falling off of the jack.
After you have gathered the supplies, loosen the bolts to the rear left wheel with a 17mm ratchet. Do not fully remove the bolts, but loosen them enough. After loosening, find the jack point under the car near where the wheel is. Place the stand under the jack point and jack up the car then place the car stand under the jack point at the side of the trolley jack then remove the trolley jack slowly letting the car rest on the stand. Do the same thing on the other read wheel so that the entire back is lifted slightly making it easier to work with both wheels.
Now remove the wheel bolts completely and remove the wheels. Locate the two 15mm bolts on the back of the brake caliper, just under the caliper holder. Remove them and liberally apply force on the caliper to get it out of the way. It’s a good idea to rest the caliper on the trolley jack to prevent you from bending any of the break pipes.
Once the caliper is removed, take out the brake pads and replace them with the new ones. Place the caliper back and place the bolts back in the correct position from the start and tighten fully. Place the wheel back on the car hub and tighten the bolts. The bolts won’t be able to be tightened fully since the car is still suspended. Repeat this ending process on the other wheel. Only after, using the jack under the car stands, lower the car back to the ground. Once the car is back on the ground, use the 17mm socket to make sure each wheel is completely tightened.
When shopping for ratchets, try to find some that have long handles so it is easier to apply the force needed to tighten the wheels’ bolts completely.
Congratulations on changing your brake pads and saving money that would otherwise be spent at the garage.
Depending on vehicle. Find level ground and park there. Put chocks in front and behind wheels not being lifted. Loosen lugs, jack up vehicle, set jack stands, lower vehicle on jack stands, remove lugs and wheel. Open hood remove brake fluid cap. Remove two bolts holding caliper, pull caliper off rotor disc and bracket, remove pads, place a used pad in front of caliper piston, use a c clamp to push caliper piston in caliper, remove c clamp and old pad, hang caliper up, remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket, remove bracket, remove rotor, install new rotor, install caliper bracket, install new pads, install caliper, repeat this on other side, put cap back on brake fluid tank, remove bleeder fittings and keep pressing brake pedal until an even flow of brake fluid sprays out. Install bleeder fitting. Make sure brake fluid doesnt get on paint and is contained and disposed of correctly, top off fluid install wheels and raise car up remove jack stands, lower car and break in new pads
1)To replace the brakes in your car you
need to turn the lug nuts for all the wheels. 2)You will have to turn it one-quarter
counter clockwise with the help of tire wrench tool. 3)For this procedure the car needs to
be lifted to a height. So Turn off the key, raise the car and support it with
jack stands. Lift both the front and the rear of the car. 4)After that remove the lug nuts and
wheels carefully. 5)Now above the brake assembly you will
see the bolts holding caliper mounting. Remove the bolts. This will loosen the
brake pads .so remove the brake pads carefully. 6)Insert the new brake pads and
reassemble the brake caliper assembly. Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. 7)Refit all the parts properly which
you removed while removing the old brake out. 8)Fit all the bolts carefully to their
respective positions. 9)Fix the wheels and lug nuts. Tighten
the bolts properly. 10)Then Lower the Mercedes to the ground
from jack stands carefully. 11)Then turn the car ON and check the
pressure on the brake system by applying the brakes.
Hi there, I have a few steps here to help you out:
With your hand brake ON, loosen the wheel bolts to hand tight, jack up front wheel, chock back wheels, and put axle stands/blocks in place (just in case) .
Remove wheel. Disconnect pad wear wire, it pulls out of the connector.
Remove lower caliper bolt (at the back of caliper at the bottom), need a 13mm ring spanner for head of bolt and 17mm to stop it spinning
Use a screw driver between the back of the outer pad and the caliper to raise the caliper back away from the back of outer pad. Pivot caliper upwards to rest on top of wheel disc (good idea to tie it up with some wire) .
Remove and discard old pads , clean out with wire brush and soft brush , don't breath in to much of the dust its nasty.
Fit new pads (remember pad wear sensor on inside pad), make sure that the pads are in contact with the disc , and the top of them sitting flush with the rim of the disc, don't force them into this position they should naturally sit there.
Lower caliper down into position, you may need to push back the piston further in order to make room for the new pads , do this with you hands or a small piece of timber. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir , your pushing fluid back in so if its over full it may spill over. Refit lower caliper bolt (Renault say to replace this each time), and tighten. Reconnect pad wear sensor.
Pump brake pedal until normal brake pressure returns.
Remove axle stand/blocks, refit wheel and bolts, lower jack and tighten up wheel bolts.
for front pads jack and support car remove wheels remove bolts holding calliper [2]remove spring clip pull calliper off remove pads clean housing fit outer pad slowley push calliper piston in using large grips fit inner pad to piston refitcalliper fit bolts refit spring clip can be awkward pump brake pedal until firm check fluid level rear ones are the same but special tool needed to wind calliper pistons back in note make sure brake discs are in good condition first
1. Hand Brake ON , loosen wheel bolts to hand tight, jack up front wheel , chock back wheels , put axle stands/blocks in place (just in case) .
2. Remove wheel. Disconnect pad wear wire , it pulls out of the connector.
3. Remove lower caliper bolt (at the back of caliper at the bottom) , need a 13mm ring spanner for head of bolt and 17mm to stop it spinning
4. Use a screw driver between the back of the outer pad and the caliper to prise the caliper back away from the back of outer pad. Pivot caliper upwards to rest on top of wheel disc (good idea to tie it up with some wire) .
5. Remove and discard old pads , clean out with wire brush and soft brush , don't breath in to much of the dust its nasty.
6. Fit new pads (remember pad wear sensor on inside pad), make sure that the pads are in contact with the disc , and the top of them sitting flush with the rim of the disc, don't force them into this position they should naturally sit there.
7. Lower caliper down into position, you may need to push back the piston further in order to make room for the new pads , do this with you hands or a small piece of timber. Keep an eye on the brake fluid resivoir , your pushing fluid back in so if its over full it may spill over. Refit lower caliper bolt (Renault say to replace this each time), and tigthen. Reconect pad wear sensor.
8. Pump brake pedal until normal brake pressure returns.
9. Remove axle stand/blocks , refit wheel and bolts , lower jack and tighten up wheel bolts.
Raise the rear of the truck off the ground using jacks. Support the vehicle on both sides with jack stands to prevent it from tipping over. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels and remove the wheels assembly and set aside, face up, to prevent damage. Disconnect the caliper bolts and remove the brake caliper. Use mechanic's wire to fasten the caliper to your truck's side rail. Take out the outer disc brake pads followed by the inner pads. Compress the brake piston into the caliper bore using a C-clamp. Replace the inner brake pads followed by the outer brake pads. Remove the C-clamp. Remove the mechanic's wire from the caliper. Lay the caliper over the pads, fasten it down and tighten the caliper bolts with the torque wrench to 26 ft. lb. Replace the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Bleed the brakes if necessary and check the brake performance during a short test drive. Good luck and hope this helps.
Brake Rotor
Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove: 
Many thanks for advice....Just was not sure if there was something I was missing...Not had Trajet for long...Will give it a go...Thanks again.
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