I bought a new Alpine PDX 1.1000 amp to power a Pioneer 12" sub (TS-W1241C) rated at 600 watts nominal/1000watts max. The sub is about 6 years old but worked fine with my old alpine MVR-T757. The problem is that when using the PDX 1.1000 even when I turn the gain all the way up, I can barely hear the sub. I also have a PDX 4.150 used to power my front components (Polk SRS650). I removed the PDX 1.1000 and used the rear 2 channels of the PDX 4.150 to power the sub and it's much louder than when I used the PDX1.1000. Why am I getting such low volume sound when I use the PDX1.000? Could this be a bad unit? I have a 2008 Tahoe, stock alternator and have not yet done the big 3 upgrade. I am running 0/1 gauge wire to the amps then split that into two 4-gauge wires which power the amps. I bought both PDX amps from Sonicelectronix. Thanks
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pretty much any amplifier can run any sub, so the question is not weather or not the amp can run them, it is how well the amp can run them. Those Pioneer subs are dual VC models and are rated at 600 watts RMS. You have two, so that would be about 1200 watts of RMS power you will need in order to power the subs correctly and to optimum efficiency. The amplifier model you have is rated at 600 watts RMS for a single channel at the lowest stable impendence. That power coming from the amp will be split two ways between the subs and divide the power to each speaker. So each speaker will be receiving 300 watts of power. So in short yes, your amp will power those subs, but they will only be operating at half their rated power. Your amp will be running at maximum power so it might get a little warm after a while. make sure you wire it correctly and keep the amp well ventilated if you decide to push it that hard. if you need help on how to wire them search the web for wiring options by typing into Google " how to wire two dual voice coil subs into amp". There you will find plenty of illustrations to help you decide.
bad sub or amp. test your sub with a 9-12 volt battery not a car battery!!! more like a drill battery with low amp rating (don't leave power to it very long or could wreck your sub coil). if that work. then test your amp with a working output if you have a friend with a system hook it up in there car to see if it will work. pawn shops test amps tell them you want to sell it and they will test it and then decline their offer. lol just thought of that on the spot.
You seem to be looking for an amp made for car audio. There are many brands, but I going to give you the specs for your particular speaker which will help in choosing, not a specific name brand amp, but at least one with the proper power outputs/requirements.
Your speaker, based on the model number you provided, is rated at 4 ohms .Power handling range is 50-300 watts. And a peak of 600watts. That does not mean start cranking 600watts thru the speaker, it will blow. I suggest you acquire a single (mono) channel amp that provides 350-400 watts at 4 ohms.
Having your subs in well-designed and constructed enclosures will make as much or more difference in their output than how you connect them to an amp.
The TS-SW1241D's are single voice coil 4 ohm shallow subwoofers that are rated for 350 watts RMS. For maximum loudness, your JL amp needs to be 2 ohm stable and capable of delivering 700 watts RMS into that impedance. Wire the subs in parallel for a 2 ohm load and maximum power from the amp.
dude TRUST me what you are using and have setup already is plenty..ONE TIP...of all things anyoine ever needs to worry about is the R...M....S power rating...the PEAK means NOTHING! its safe and fine to use what you got.
Power is rated at 1000x1 @ 4ohm.
How many voice-coils does your speaker have? If more then one, are the coils wired in series or parallel? How many ohms are the coils? If you actuate the cone with your hand, do you hear any "scraping" sounds?
Assuming everything above is within range and or tests good, the amplifier more then likely has at least one failed output transistor. a DMM would be needed to check for shorts.
You are going to want to make sure all your power wires and grounds are 4 gauge as well as the wire leads to and from the capacitor-4 gauge also. make sure you have a very good ground - the power wire from the battery should hit a distribution block-from the dist. block a 4 gauge should go to the capacitor another 4 gauge to the mono amp and another to the 4 channel amp -every component should have a good solid ground even if you have to bust out a grinder and a drill and some self tapping sheet metal screws and go nuts on it- see if that helps you
fuses wont restrict the current flow the amp is way too much for that sub. it may not have damaged that sub yet but it will. you might only need a 100 watts rms too run it.but you will need sowe where about 2000 watt sub too run off that amp