The front PS interface is jiggly after a very short period of use. I have shimmed over & over only to get frustrated.
How do I open the hub without breaking it and fix this internal connection to stable again?
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Re: Belkin 7 port USB Hub
I recommend you not to try to open it. The made it difficult to open for one reason and that is to prevent anyone to fix it so you have to buy another one but if you are experiencing problems of connectivity try this: remove the screws (if any) from the enclosure use a flat screw drive and insert it on the side of the casing's edge (right in the thin gap) apply little pressure and then push the screw driver down then up slightly, do this all around the case and with some patience you may get it open if you must use another flat screw driver to stick it on the part is already opened to keep it from closing back. Do this at your own risk there is no warranty you will be able to fix it once opened. I recommend you buy a D-Link hub they are reliable not to expensive, also easy to open. Good Luck!
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To be honest with you, I don't know. You would have to refer to a service manual specific to your model bike. I do know that it it supposed to have a sleeve in it. The length of the sleeve would be dependent upon the type of front end you have and the machining of the wheel hub itself. You would want the lenght of hub that would wind up with the fewest number of shims in the hub. As I've inferred, the assembly also has a special washer and shims in there as well. You add or subtract shims until you get an endplay of 0.002" to 0.006". Although my service manual doesn't show them, there mey be two short sleeves that go inside the wheel bearing seals on either side of the wheel. I would look in a parts manual for the recommmended parts and start from there. If you can get hold of a 6" caliper, maybe you could measure between the surfaces that the bearing races seat against, subtract for the thickness of the special washer and a few shims to determine what length spacer you need.
jack up and support the front end on stands remove the wheel then remove the outer hub screws and then pull the hub out next you should see a large nut with square notches around the out side of the nut you will need the proper "spanner wrench"to remove this,once you remove the spanner nut there will be a large washer behind that with a small tab holes,that shim will pull out ,next remove the inner spanner nut(the same as the first one).This inner nut will have a small tab on it and fits into the shim you just removed make sure when you reinstall this nut and shim ring the tab and a hole line back up.Sorry I forgot to mention you need to remove the brake caliper also,just remove the two pressure rods(one on top and one on the bottom)by taking a hammer and a punch and gently tapping them outwards once they are out the caliper is able to be removed and swung up out of the way.Once the hub and inner nuts and shim are remove you will see the outer bearings and they come right out,for the rear bearings in the back of the hub you can pull out the old seal and remove the rear bearings.hope this helps its not as bad as it may seems once you've done one set they become easier for the next time
Hello Folks. Just spent the last 45 mins on my back under the SHU 9950's door, with a kettle of (cold!) water sitting just above the soap dispenser - the door will spring back up with the front removed. Basically there are three "components" to the shim: the flat side, the short comb side and the longer comb side. The way that worked for me was, with the door elevated about 20 degrees, I slotted in the top five flanges, having already placed the shim in the middle of the insulation cutout area on the door-front, flat side against the door, long comb closest to the door-front's side. You should push the short comb flush up against the insulation, so that the shim will be clear of the two door pieces when you fit them together. The shims seem to serve 2 purposes: preventing the door from torqueing as well as allowing the door to open perpendicular to the unit. Good luck!
Unclear here? When you take the battery out, it shuts off? Assuming you do have the power supply plugged in? (sorry, I know it sounds silly that I ask that, but you just never know)
Acers will work with the battery out, actually that is how I HAD to work my acer. I personally would not buy another ACER because of the problems I have had with mine. I had to remove my battery as the keyboard and mouse would NOT function with the battery in place. (the battery never held long charge from new anyway). So I started using it plugged in all the time. (no battery).
As far as the hitting the wireless button and the computer shuts down, I'm wondering if just moving the laptop period is what is causing the shutdown. My Acer too, (because of jiggly PS jack on the back) would cut off is laptop is even slightly moved. Maybe while pushing the button the laptop too gets moved? Unsure. It may be a shortage issue, but I suspect it has more to do with shorted PS jack.
Take off the front panel (10 little screws, two shims will fall out) and you'll see the two handle bolts on the inside of the panel. Tighten 'em; reinstall the panel (good luck figuring out how the shims go back...)