CD Drive not Ejecting properly

Based on your recent post/description "Yes yaar , I too tried that also , I opened and refixed everything but still problem is there".

Which of the above did you try?

Since you tried "?":
1. was there a B+ supply to the eject motor when you press the eject button?
2. were you able to determine if there is continuity to the motor windings?
3. on belt replacement, was the motor (driving) pulley and the driven pulley rotating with ease and can it support the load of the tray?
4. did you check the eject button for momentary on when pressed?
5. is the CD getting +5 and +12 VDC supply?
6. on motor replacement, is it an exact replacement, same torque, same rpm?
7. are there any ICs on the PCB that heats up when power is applied?
8. pushing through the pin hole, was the tray moving out with relative ease or do you have to push a little harder?

With all of the above considerations, perhaps it will be to your advantage to simply replace the drive. Not only is it time consuming, you have to be very familiar with digital electronics to fully diagnose where the problem lies as well as the availability of a schematic diagram, knowledge on the use of a soldering iron, VOM.

As posted earlier, since the warranty has expired one can only assume that quite some time have lapsed since purchase. Price wise, I believe that the cost of a new CD/RW far outweighs the trouble, time and expense repairing an old unit. Based on your recent post/description "Yes yaar , I too tried that also , I opened and refixed everything but still problem is there". Which of the above did you try? Since you tried "?": 1. was there a B+ supply to the eject motor when you press the eject button? 2. were you able to determine if there is continuity to the motor windings? 3. on belt replacement, was the motor (driving) pulley and the driven pulley rotating with ease and can it support the load of the tray? 4. did you check the eject button for momentary on when pressed? 5. is the CD getting +5 and +12 VDC supply? 6. on motor replacement, is it an exact replacement, same torque, same rpm? 7. are there any ICs on the PCB that heats up when power is applied? 8. pushing through the pin hole, was the tray moving out with relative ease or do you have to push a little harder? With all of the above considerations, perhaps it will be to your advantage to simply replace the drive. Not only is it time consuming, you have to be very familiar with digital electronics to fully diagnose where the problem lies as well as the availability of a schematic diagram, knowledge on the use of a soldering iron, VOM. As posted earlier, since the warranty has expired one can only assume that quite some time have lapsed since purchase. Price wise, I believe that the cost of a new CD/RW far outweighs the trouble, time and expense repairing an old unit.

ahh, we're at least getting somewhere; it works without the cover.

Then sir, I believe it is a simple case of the cover obstructing something. You have to check the flatness of the casing/cover. Lay it on a glass table and closely observed it the cover is warped, bended, or the sides not true 90degrees. Sometimes this cover has a plastic spindle that matches/mates with the center motor. Normally it is spring loaded to push down on the disc when sandwiched by a lever that moves up and brings the laser/eye bed. At other times, it is magnetic. If they extend to much down then they will obstruct the CD from ejecting, Same as a warped casing, it will not be aligned to the chassis of the tray/assy and also obstruct eject.

Since you have pointed that the eject electronics work (when no cover), it is a matter of going back inside again and focusing on the cover and where it touches the CD tray assy.

Anxiously awaiting your next post. ahh, we're at least getting somewhere; it works without the cover. Then sir, I believe it is a simple case of the cover obstructing something. You have to check the flatness of the casing/cover. Lay it on a glass table and closely observed it the cover is warped, bended, or the sides not true 90degrees. Sometimes this cover has a plastic spindle that matches/mates with the center motor. Normally it is spring loaded to push down on the disc when sandwiched by a lever that moves up and brings the laser/eye bed. At other times, it is magnetic. If they extend to much down then they will obstruct the CD from ejecting, Same as a warped casing, it will not be aligned to the chassis of the tray/assy and also obstruct eject. Since you have pointed that the eject electronics work (when no cover), it is a matter of going back inside again and focusing on the cover and where it touches the CD tray assy. Anxiously awaiting your next post.