I have a Kenmore Elite 62972 dryer and it seems to take a long time to dry clothes. I want to locate the moisture sensor to see if it is the problem. It was suggested that I clean it but I am not sure where it is located. Any help?
I have the Kenmore 62972 dryer and it no longer produces heat. I just did the moisture sensor test and it went to the end of cycle just fine (other than no heat). A repair man suggested replacing the timer, but he didn't sound to confident. He also said the part and labor would be over $200 and that I should just buy a new machine. Should I order the part myself (Sears lists it for $70) and do my own repair?I have the Kenmore 62972 dryer and it no longer produces heat. I just did the moisture sensor test and it went to the end of cycle just fine (other than no heat). A repair man suggested replacing the timer, but he didn't sound to confident. He also said the part and labor would be over $200 and that I should just buy a new machine. Should I order the part myself (Sears lists it for $70) and do my own repair?
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
All-Star:
An expert that got 10 achievements.
MVP:
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Vice President:
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Master
725 Answers
Re:
It could be the sensor. However, check the exhaust vent for restrictions first.
you can test the moisture sensor
Damp Dry Test
1. Set the following
Timer- DAMP DRY
Fabric Care/Temperature switch- COTTON HIGH
Wrinkle Guard switch- OFF
Signal switch- LOUD
Door- must be closed
2. Press the PUSH TO START switch. After approximately 16 seconds, the Timer will start to advance to the OFF position, and the ?End of Cycle? signal will sound. If one or more of these functions do not occur, proceed to the Factory Test.
Factory Test
The Factory Test allows factory/service personnel to test and verify all inputs to the Even Heat control. The basic operation of this test is to notify the operator with an audible beep every time the status of an input to the control changes state.
Activating the Test Mode
1. Set the following configuration:
Door- must be open
Fabric Care/Temperature switch- AIR FLUFF
Signal switch- LOUD
Timer- TIMED DRY OR AUTO MOISTURE SESING PLUS selection
2. Turn the Wrinkle Guard switch from OFF to ON three times within a five second period. A single beep will sound to indicate that the factory test mode is activated.
NOTE: If any of these initial conditions are not satisfied, the control will not enter the test mode.
Test Mode Functionality
When the control is in the Factory Test mode, every input change of state will result in a beep (with the exception of the Signal switch). This includes:
Door switch
Moisture Sensor (short/open Sensor will result in a beep) NOTE: A moistened finger or damp cloth may also be used.
Fabric Care/ Temperature switch
Wrinkle Guard switch
Push to Start (PTS) switch (with the door switch closed)
Timer (any cam input change will result in a beep) NOTE: Timer will advance during test.
If any of the inputs do not result in a beep, proceed to the following component tests
If the dryer shuts off too soon when set to the AUTO MOISTURE SENSING PLUS cycle, check the following:
-HARNESS/CONNECTION
-MOISTURE SENSOR
-THERMISTOR
-EVEN HEAT CONTROL
Procedure:
1. Test the Moisture Sensor by following the procedure outlined in ?Factory Test?, beginning on page 3. If the Moisture sensor fails the ?Factory Test? (does not produce a beep sound), check the Moisture Sensor.
a. If there is continuity to Ground for Yellow/Red (Y/R) wire with no load, look for a short in the Sensor or Y/R wire. Verify harness connections both at the Sensor and the Even Heat control.
b. If the Sensor and Y/R wire are good, replace the Even Heat control.
2. If Factory Test passed, verify thermistor by performing test procedures outlined in ?Thermistor Test?
3. If problem persists after replacing Moisture Sensor and thermistor
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Some dryers have a moisture sensing strip in the drum area of the dryer. If this sensor gets coated with an insulator, like silicon from the backing on carpets, it does not sense moisture. When this happens, the dryer times out and shuts down. This prevents the dryer from running even after the clothes are dry.
Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory.
Try to run it in a timed cycle and see if it works longer. It could have a bad moisture sensor and thinks that the clothes are already dry. Prove it out and then replace it.
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
try timed dry cycle instead of the auto-sensing setting. In your drum if you have auto dry such as less dry normal dry and more dry, There is a sensor sometimes in the drum and sometimes in the exhaust right after the blower. If in the drum then your clothes brush by this and if moisture is sensed then it keeps on drying. With your rack the clothes can't touch the sensor so it tells your dial to turn and that items are dry which in fact are not. Try this and see how it does.
If you have ever removed the lint filter area completely via the screws that hold the plastics in so you could clean it then remove it again and insure that you plugged in the two wires that go to the strip sensor.. (moisture sensor)
I have the Kenmore 62972 dryer and it no longer produces heat. I just did the moisture sensor test and it went to the end of cycle just fine (other than no heat). A repair man suggested replacing the timer, but he didn't sound to confident. He also said the part and labor would be over $200 and that I should just buy a new machine. Should I order the part myself (Sears lists it for $70) and do my own repair?
×