Frost build-up causes cooling to stop

here are lots of things that can cause cooling problems. One of the most common causes of poor cooling in a frost free refrigerator is a defrost system failure. In such a case one or the other compartment may appear to be keeping proper temperature but that too may change in a short period of time. The fridge compartment's temperature rise is usually (but not always) the first to be noticed. Frost" and "Ice"
There is a difference between "frost" (a white, snow-like substance) and "ice" (usually clear and solid). When referring to what is seen during an inspection, please keep this distinction in mind as the possible causes for each are often very different. The Defrost System
Inspecting the (usually rear) wall of the freezer compartment for a frost build up is necessary. (In the case of many GE top freezer models, check the freezer's bottom panel.) If there is a frost coating on it, it is often a sign of excessive frosting beneath it. Sometimes however the evaporator cover panel will actually need to be removed (see the illustration below) before an excessive frost build will visible.
The refrigeration system's evaporator (cooling) coil is usually in the freezer compartment. This evaporator will periodically frost over and have to be defrosted by means of a heating system. When the defrost heating system fails, the frost can accumulate to such a degree that airflow throughout the appliance is hampered. There may be just enough air circulation to cool the freezer section but that will eventually stop too.

Post the model number of the refrigerator. Defrost freezer behind where the cold air circulates with a hair drier. (unplug power first!) Most times when a refrigerator side stops cooling it is because the freezer evaporator behind the panel in the back of freezer (most times) has become blocked by frost=> SEE PHOTO Most times the panel before you see the frosted covering the evaporator will begin to show a layer of frost building=> SEE PHOTO (Click each photo to enlarge.) Sometimes the fresh food section of the refrigerator side will warm because ice or frost will block the damper from moving that regulates temperatures in the fresh food section. Sometimes the damper is defective and sometimes the sensor that controls the damper movement is defective. For these reasons it is important that you provide your model numbers so someone knows just what type refrigerator you have to cover all of the possibilities of what may be wrong causing the warming of the fresh food section and soon the freezer section will also begin to warm. The most likely cause are the defrost control, ADC Adaptive Defrost Control, defrost heater, defrost thermostat, air damper and air damper sensors in that order. Let me know what you have and I will try to identify just what may be happening, Thanks Sea Breeze

Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting.
If it still exists then there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Hi: The fact that it still makes ice tells me the freezer is a zero degrees. When you said condensation in the freezer did you mean frost? If your defrost heater fails it will cause the frost free freezer to build up frost. The frost will build up and block the vent that supplies the cold air to the fresh food. The defrost heater is behind the metal wall at the back of the freezer, at the very bottom. A glass tube with a metal coil in it. The coil can break and stop the defrosting. Replace that. Use a hair dryer to melt the frost from behind the panel. All of it top to bottom. You need to remove all the frost to free up the airways. I hope this helps, Jeff

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
It's stopped completely 
It's not cool
Cooling is poor
It's noisy 
It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem

frost build up on element behind freezer back panel becasue auto defrost isn't working (possibly timer). Frost build up blocks the airflow from freezer into fridge causing it to stop working but freezer still working.

Defected DEFROST HEATER can cause frost build up on the panel at the back of the freezer,and freezer stop cooling and ice frozen on unit so air could not flow to refrigerator side.Water will coming out caused of unbalanced freezing,and causing the flooding of water in the floor. You must change this defroster heater assembly so it will works normal again..


Hope this may help;

Regards,
VOTIT

Side by side and other refrigerators are controlled or cooled by one system. Look to the freezer side for frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer. Frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer stops the air that cools the refrigerator from circulating. Frost on the back wall indicates a problem in the defrost circuit related to the timing device, heaters or defrost thermostat.

Generally speaking if the refrigerator does not cool and you have frost on the back wall of the freezer it suggests a defrost problem.
However since the refrigerator started working by itself it would point to an air circulation problem from the fan in the freezer compartment failing to operate. The frost on the back wall without the fan operating would cause frost buildup because the heat is still trying to get to the coil through the back wall. If your refrigerator freezer has a door fan light switch something holding the door partly open would cause the fan not to operate. Look for a button or toggle and manually push it in. You should hear the fan turn on and the light will go off.

Check for frost build-up behind back wall in freezer. If there is a heavy frost build-up, it's not defrosting. This will restrict airflow to refigerator section and can stop fan. If fan is stuck again and it's not because of frost, replace evaporator fan motor.