Question about Kenmore Elite 20972

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Electric Dryer overheating

I have had this Kenmore Elite Electric dryer, model# 110.60942990 for 6 years and have replaced several parts, several times: Hi Limit thermostat, Timer Thermal Cut Off (4X), Thermistor (1X), and Thermal Fuse (1X). When I dry clothes on Low Heat, after 5 min. the dryer is so hot inside and out, that the clothes have burn marks, blue marks and almost permenant wrinkles in them and are so hot, you cannot touch them to remove them. This has been continual for months, I am a single mother on low income and cannot afford to buy a new dryer, but having to buy all new clothes is not any cheaper either. Does anyone have ANY IDEA of what else could be wrong??? PLEASE HELP!!??

Posted by Mary Romanow on

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  • Anonymous Jun 08, 2008

    We have had the same problem. It started 14 months after we bought it. (1 month after warranty expired) We too have had repairs done and now it seems to be getting worse. We check our vents frequently and this does not seem to be the problem. We have made a complaint to Sears and suggest you do the same. This is a fire hazard and they need to know it is going on.

  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    The coil is red hot on all cycles including "air only".

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    my clothes are very wrinkled

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Franklin Ouchida

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Sounds to me like you have a venting problem or the vent is plugged check the vent clean it out. make it as short as you can , also if you can use rigid metal vent...if all is clean then the blower wheel must be broken.. or loose. check for air flow out the vent ...let me know what you find..

Posted on Aug 26, 2007

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KENMORE DRYER # 110.67042600 CODE F1 , CAN THE THERMITER BE SHORTED OUT


F 1 error code flashes, when there is a primary control board failure. To fix, the "F 1" failure the machine control board will need to be replaced. Not cheap part.
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Kenmore Dryer Model 110 67042600 11067042600 110 67042600 Parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-model-kenmore-11067042600.html
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Why won't it start?


YOU MAY WANT TO TEST YOUR DOOR SWITCH WITH AMULTI METER


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

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If the switch is OK, then the only other problem will be with the thermal fuse located on the rear of the machine. Here is a link to that part.

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