How do you replace the oven ignitor?

The oven ignitor should have a resistance reading of about 3.2 to 3.6 ohms. If the readings are out of this specification or show open replace the ignitor. measure the resistance of the oven valve. The gas valve should have about 1.5 ohms of resistance. If the gas valve is OK, the control board is suspect. The ignitor needs 120vac to work.

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter

heatman101

Replacing the ignitor is not difficult or dangerous. To get at it, you will first take out the racks. Then undo the box-like cover inside the bottom of the oven; the screws face front. Underneath that is a wing-shaped cover, held in place with wingnuts. Remove it.

The pipe that the gas comes out of heads straight back; the ignitor is just to the left. You'll be able to see the wires going out the back of the oven. Remove the plates that hold the tube/ignitor combination.

Once the pipe is free, then get your head out of the oven and pull out the oven so you can see, and get at, the back. On the lower left is a cover, about 12 x 15 or so, held in place by four screws. Remove it.

At this point you can see where the ignitor connects to the orange wires (at least mine are orange) with a plastic connection. Undo that connection.

Viola! You have removed the ignitor! Now, before you forget, make a diagram of everything you did. Put the screws in separate plastic baggies, with paper number tabs that correspond to your drawing. This will greatly help in putting everything back together.

you have a bad ignitor,take out the racks and remove the floor of the oven,you'll see the round ignitor with two 1/4 inch screws holding it on,you can remove the burner tube that the ignitor is connected to with the ignitor on it or you can remove the screws,cut the wires close to the old ignitor and remove it,screw on the new ignitor,leave around6 or 8 inches of wire on the new ignitor,cut back the old wires so you can wire nut the wires together,start the oven and the ignitor should ignite the flame in like 20 to 40 seconds.it doesn't matter what wires you connect,you don't have to worry about if the left wire coming out of the ignitor connects to the same wire the old one connected to,just as long as the wire nuts are tight on the 2 connecting wires you'll be fine.the part number is WB13K21 and the ignitor is around 80 bucks.you can kill the power to the oven but no power is going to the ignitor if the bake isn't on so as long as you don't touch anything else you'll be fine,let me know how you make out

Most likely replacing the ignitor will fix it. I usually replace Viking ignitors with Maytag ones, part number 12400035 (you'll need splice wires and use included wire nuts to connect those, though). Those have a little shorter base, which does not affect anything. Replace both bake ignitors if you can, otherwise, one of the burners will ignite slower and shut off faster, resulting in uneven bake.

Hi,
All that means is to take the outside insulating coating off of about 1/2" of the wire... that is stripping the wire and making it bare... then you take the two wires that need to be connected and twist them together,,,, then twist the ceramic nut over the wires til it gets tight...this gives you a good connection... make sure that none of the bare wire is out past the back of the nut where it could hit metal and short out..

heatman101

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

A pilot light and a ignitor do the same thing. no unit would have both.

Perhaps you are confusing the thermo-coupling for an ignitor. An ignitor (glow plug style) is ceramic with a conductive coating on the end powered by electricity supplied by two high temperature coated wires that connect to the oven controller.

A replaceable thermo-couple looks like a copper tube with a elongated bulb at one end and a fitting at the other. The bulb is placed in the pilot flame and the fitting screws into the gas valve.

I am looking at a exploded diagram for the model number you listed. The unit uses a "safety valve" with the thermo-couple incorporated into it. To see the exploded view, click here If
you are asked for a model #, use CPL1100ADW. In section 2, gas controls, Diagram location 17 is the safety valve. Click on the part photo for a better view of the valve.

If you have any questions, let me know. Hope this gets your unit up and running again.

Please take the time to give this solution a fix ya rating,

clarkco

That's all you have to do, cut them as close as possible to the old ignitor, strip them back about a quarter inch and connect them with ceramic wire nuts. Catriver

two things either hte clock(control ) assy not sending powerdown to the igiotr, or hte valve that the ignitor is connected to onst nay good, unplugh the unit andwitha meter try testing the 2 wire connections on the top of the safety valve( i wire goes to the ignitor nad the other is a neutral wire htt hooks downt to under the valve for the broiler, you should show continuity across those to leads, if not your valve is no good and will need replacing