Initially the lock code enabled and it would not disengage. I turned off the circuit breaker for 15 minutes and the PF code appeared. I held in the start/cancel button and it started with 1 in the screen counting up to 8, drying and then the screen went blank. It seemed to run through the whole cycle in about 10 minutes. The lock code appeared again and I am not able to disengage it. Sometimes it turns off on its own and none of the buttons on the control panel work
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have an accredited electrician check the unit for a problem in the current usage when all burners are running ( elements shorting out through failing insulation, excessive resistance etc)
The circuit breaker should have sufficient capacity for all burners on at full heat but if one is shorting out through a developing fault , that may be exceeding the breaker capacity
Headlights are usually protected by self resetting circuit breaker instead of a throw away fuse. If you are certain of no dead short in the headlight circuit, the only other option is a new circuit breaker. Since you get various times of normal operation after the breaker resetts, I would suspect the breaker rather than a short.
What else do you have running on hydro while AC is running? Such as coffee maker, microwave, water heater, fridge. That 30 amp breaker is your main breaker I assume, or breaker on pole your plugged in to. Keep in mind your AC will normally draw approx. 15-17+ amps momentarily when compressor kicks in to cool, then drop back to 12-15 amps when running normal. If your AC is drawing too much current, then you would only normally trip 20 amp breaker for AC in your panel. Try switching other appliances to gas operation while running AC, such as water heater, and fridge. Make sure incoming voltage is up to specs as well . (115-120 volts) If water heater takes 5-8 amps, and fridge takes same when they are calling for power, you'll be close or over the 20amp mark when you consider your on board converter etc. as well. That only leaves approx 10 amps for AC that requires approx 15 amps to run, and up to 20amps when compressor kicks in. If you switch all those other items over to propane, and it still happens, then a current draw test should be done on AC unit to see if perhaps a capacitor is faulty, or possible compressor faulty.
HI. Kindly shutdown the appropriatecircuit breaker for 5 minutes. This will allow the unit to reset. Once the 5 minutes are up, simply re-introduce power to the unit, and try to initiate a normal cycle. If the errors are still present, after the reset, this will confirm that the Door Lock mechanism has failed. The oven will not allow itself to operate under these circumstances. Once the door lock mechanism is replaced, the unit will return to normal operation status.
Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes.
Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently
try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door. or Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15
minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try
moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door. If these
procedures fail to correct the condition, the lock must usually be accessed and
moved manually to open the door. Some model ovens require
the oven door to be manually unlatched before the controls are returned to the
OFF position or else the door may not be able to be unlocked. Check the owner's
manual for proper operating procedures.
It sounds like the unit was miswired at the factory, since when the A/C is "off" at the thermostat, there should be no calls for cooling or for the fan to run.
You also stated the most puzzling issue, with the breaker turned "off" the same thing happens. This shouldn't happen at all, when the power breaker is turned off, there should be no power being supplied to the unit and it shouldn't be able to do anything. Very strange indeed, but likely a major error done when the RV was manufactured, or some wiring in the loom has somehow become shorted and is supplying power from another breaker/source.
I think a call to the manufacturer is in order since there is no easy solution aside from possibly rewiring the A/C circuit.
Not sure when your RV was made, but definately time to call the manufacturer and break out the wiring schematic in an attempt to isolate and resolve the problem.
There`s probably an leakage from the steamblock, and the water flows over the contacts. This will short circuit the machine. Contact your dealer or nearest servicepartner and they will fix it with a new water connector.
In short - NO. 15 amp circuits are intended for lighting and outlets and usually have 14 gauge wiring. A 20 amp circuit is usually wired with heavier 12 gauge wire which can carry the increased amps. If you plug in a 20 amp breaker into a 15 amp circuit you run the risk of overheating the smaller gauge wire and starting a fire.
First, unplug the oven, or turn off the circuit breaker to it - so long as power is cut to the oven. Leave it for about 5 minutes, then plug it back in or turn the circuit breaker back on and try to open the door.
If that doesn't work, turn on the self-cleaning cycle again, and let it run for about 15 minutes. Then turn it off and wait another 15 minutes, and see if the door will open.
If neither of those work, you have a more serious problem with the locking mechanism. Either a bad solenoid or a damaged heat locking mechanism. Both of these will require removing the stove top to access and repair. Let me know if the above suggestions fix the problem. If they don't, I will get you more specifics on repairing the locking mechanism - assuming you're up for that.