Brother ax-12 cable detached

No AX wont fit

you can check if the FPLP cable is satisfied with any standards such as NEMA or IP serial.
if they does satisfied such as type 3R or IP65 then they are for bad weather conditions.

1

Turn the Homelite chainsaw so that the bar and chain are laying flat and the starter cover is facing up. Loosen the four starter cover screws by unscrewing them counterclockwise with the screwdriver.

2

Take the starter cover off of the engine. Turn the starter cover over to work on the pull starter. Pull the rope out about 6 to 8 inches.

3

Twist a loop into the end of the rope. Insert the intersection of the two ropes into the notch on the upper flange of the pulley. Rotate the loop back and forth until you notice the recoil spring has disengaged. Unwind the rope from the pulley. Cut off any old rope if you need to replace it with a new rope.

4

Unscrew the screw holding the pulley to the starter cover using the screwdriver. Take the pulley off the starter cover. Turn the pulley over and remove the recoil spring cassette from inside the pulley.

5

Inspect the spring inside the cassette to see if it is damaged or overstretched. Replace the recoil spring cassette if it is broken. Lubricate the post on the starter cover using about a dime-sized amount of engine grease.

6

Put the recoil spring cassette back into the pulley. Set the pulley onto the starter cover and tighten the screw down with the screwdriver. Wind the starter rope back around the pulley in a clockwise direction.

7

Leave about 6 to 8 inches of rope unwound. Form another loop at the end and insert the loop into the notch on the pulley. Rotate the loop back and forth until you notice the tension is set on the recoil spring.

8

Remove the loop and place the starter cover back over the engine. Pull the rope out 6 inches and tighten the starter cover's screws using the screwdriver. Release the rope and it should automatically retract

hope this helps

John

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Go to BROTHER.COM. click on support, poke around there, you will find a manual there.

DickyO

yoYI would so to ask.com and type in manaul for brother ax-12 typerwriter.
Or, you could just google Brother Ax-12 typewriter and then click on the information and the manual will probably be listed.

p, li { white-space: pre-wrap; }

Simply follow the steps

Disconnect the battery's negative cable and set it aside where it can't accidentally snap back onto the terminal.

Remove the car's accessory drive belt. Disconnect the belt shield by removing its two 10-mm bolts, push up on the tensioner by hand, pull the belt off the air conditioner or water pump pulley and remove the rest of the belt. Take note of how the belt loops around each pulley.

Open the cover containing the alternator's electrical connectors and disconnect them. Remove the bolt on the coolant expansion tank then detach the tank from its clip and secure it away. Detach the power steering reservoir, engine wiring loom bracket, ground cable and evaporative emission canister purge valve.

Unscrew and remove the alternator's first bolt on its right side. Unscrew the second bolt on the left and disengage it fully from the bracket; it cannot be removed from the alternator. Remove the alternator from the engine.

Install the new alternator, placing the built-in bolt within the bracket and tightening it first. Insert and tighten the second bolt.

Replace all other objects set aside in the reverse order they were detached. (evaporative emission canister purge valve, ground cable, engine wiring loom bracket, power steering reservoir and coolant expansion tank). Plug in the electrical connectors and replace the cover over them.

Replace the accessory drive belt. Loop it over all the pulleys except the one on the air conditioner. Retract the tensioner upwards as you did before to fit the belt on the A/C pulley.

Reconnect the battery cable.

The DR Trimmer/Mower V-belt (1/2” x 45” 4L450) loops around the Trimmer Head pulley and the engine pulley. The V seats into the pulley grooves and the flat side faces out.

On older models there is a stationary idler pulley near the front of the trimmer which remains inside the belt loop. Another smaller pivoting idler pulley sits further back near the engine pulley and rides on the outside (flat side) of the belt loop. This is attached to the clutch cable which can be adjusted to apply more or less tension to the belt.

To adjust the clutch cable on older models, follow it down to where it mounts to the Trimmer frame with lock nuts. Loosen those lock nuts and move the cable in small increments forward for more belt slack or backwards for more belt tension, tightening up the lock nuts when you find the proper position.

If you have a newer model, the trimmer won’t have the stationary idler pulley, it will have a twin idler pulley that pivots on a bracket and is attached to the clutch cable. The belt loops to the outside of the first idler pulley and to the inside of the 2nd idler pulley (pulley is inside belt loop). Be sure the belt retainer brackets don’t rub against the belt when it is engaged.

The Clutch Cable adjustment is the same procedure except that the adjuster is mounted to a bracket on the handlebars with lock nuts.

You may download the DR Trimmer manuals for more detailed information at the following web link:

http://www.drpower.com/Trimmer-Mowers_Manuals.aspx

If you hear it trying to eject then the actuator belt and pulleys have become too dusty to have the traction they need. Unplug it and pull the face plate off. You should see a black plastic gear. Manually turn this gear to your left with screwdriver. Keep turning it until the tray pops open. Look through the slot in the tray and you'll see the belt. Tweezer that puppy out of there (gently now! don't stretch it too much). Detach the small pulley first. Clean the belt and pulleys with alcohol. To put the belt back on, always loop the big pulley first. Makes it much easier. Don't stand it on end and lokk down to do this. If you do and you drop the belt, it'll vanish into the murky depths of the 360. Leave it lying flat.

The belt on a dryer is inside the body, usually accessed and changed as follows

most base dryers

• unplug dryer(220v is Not Fun)
• remove lint screen
• undo screws inside lint screen holder, screwing it to case lid (so lid can tilt up)
• with putty knife or other blunt blade, release spring catches under front corners of case lid
• raise case lid
• remove screws 1/3 way down front corners of body holding front panel on
• remove door switch cable from door switch
• lift door off set aside

maytag

• remove screws from bottom bend of front panel
• lift front panel off
• remove doo switch cable
• sent front panel aside

1. drum motor felts and bearings are now accessible.
2. lift drum and withdraw fully forwards
3. with drum removed check support rollers for free movement, check drum slides and/or drum felts for wear, easier to replace now, if worn, than have bearings or slides cause belt to break again.
4. loop belt loosely around drum at wear marks from prior installation
5. reinsert drum onto rollers bearings slides felts as installed.
6. loop belt around motor pulley
7. pull tensioner pulley against spring to end of its travel
8. loop belt around tensioner pulley
9. relax tensioner pulley to tighten belt
10. rotate drum by hand to ensure belt is aligned

reassemble case in reverse order.

Notes
There are not many belt, felt, support roller sizes the local parts guy will have a belt, felt, roller to fit,

Tensioner pulley may not be in place, breaking belts often pull them out of their mounts, the pulley and spring will be lying on the case floor, there is only one way they fit in to their mounts so they are easy to reinstall

tensioner sketch is approximate, pulley may be on top run pulling down, or bottom run pushing up

the repair is easy, it takes longer to type or read this than it does to repair the dryer

Belts ~$14 Support Rollers ~$14/pair, felts/slides upto ~$25
New dryer +$200 - its a good repair