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It worked fine until i cleaned the arm and put it back on. I wonder if I did something to it? It's the spray arm that circles with the water. It's a Sears Kenmore Model #14449/17445, it's a small dishwasher under the cabinet.
That makes sense because I also put some silicone around that bobber because it was rusting. I must have put it too high not allowing the bobber to go all the way down. I will try this tonight. Thank you so much.
CindyThat makes sense because I also put some silicone around that bobber because it was rusting. I must have put it too high not allowing the bobber to go all the way down. I will try this tonight. Thank you so much.
I will be so grateful if it works. Sears wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to just have them come to look at it. I will certainly let you know. I hope you have a great weekend.
CindyDear SG,
I will be so grateful if it works. Sears wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to just have them come to look at it. I will certainly let you know. I hope you have a great weekend.
I wanted to thank you for your help. I pushed down the bobber a couple of times and the last time really hard and it started working. The water is now coming in. It is still leaking though. I wonder if it is the rubber seal around the door. It is hanging down on the bottom of the door. Is that a hard thing to fix? Can I take the door off and fix it?
Thanks again for the advice. It worked and I am very happy about that.
CindyDear SG,
I wanted to thank you for your help. I pushed down the bobber a couple of times and the last time really hard and it started working. The water is now coming in. It is still leaking though. I wonder if it is the rubber seal around the door. It is hanging down on the bottom of the door. Is that a hard thing to fix? Can I take the door off and fix it?
Thanks again for the advice. It worked and I am very happy about that.
I finally got the model number. It is #587.1444990. I have other numbers off the dishwasher if you need them. It is a Sears Kenmore small size dishwasher.
Thank you again,
CindyDear SG,
I finally got the model number. It is #587.1444990. I have other numbers off the dishwasher if you need them. It is a Sears Kenmore small size dishwasher.
I have a feeling you are right about the baffle seal. #24 in the diagram is where the part is hanging out. Do you think it is possible to get this part anywhere?
thank you again,
CindyDear SG,
I have a feeling you are right about the baffle seal. #24 in the diagram is where the part is hanging out. Do you think it is possible to get this part anywhere?
I tore the dishwasher apart last night. I can't quite figure out how to get to the #24. Do I have to take out the screws on the bottom of the door #30 that holds on part #31? It seems when I pull #31 out a little bit #24 should be there but it is not there is another part, I think it is #27. This diagram is not exactly like mine. There is a top part of the door that did not come off. I wonder if there is another diagram? I'm just not certain how to get to the part. Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
CindyDear SG,
I tore the dishwasher apart last night. I can't quite figure out how to get to the #24. Do I have to take out the screws on the bottom of the door #30 that holds on part #31? It seems when I pull #31 out a little bit #24 should be there but it is not there is another part, I think it is #27. This diagram is not exactly like mine. There is a top part of the door that did not come off. I wonder if there is another diagram? I'm just not certain how to get to the part. Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
I did take those screws out but I did not remove the ones that are on the bottom of, I believe it is part #27. they are only a couple of inches off the floor and I was hoping I would not have to take them out. But I guess I'd better get a very short screwdriver. Right? I think those are the only screws left that is holding it on.
CindyDear SG,
I did take those screws out but I did not remove the ones that are on the bottom of, I believe it is part #27. they are only a couple of inches off the floor and I was hoping I would not have to take them out. But I guess I'd better get a very short screwdriver. Right? I think those are the only screws left that is holding it on.
It looks like, by the diagram, that I do not have to take the whole top door apart? I did have it all apart and still could not figure how to get to the baffle seal. I see by this diagram that just as you said before that I have to remove only the kick plate. I'll try that one tonight or this weekend. I did get the parts all back together ok because it is still working. I guess that's a good sign. I'll let you know what happens. You gave me hope again of being able to do this myself. Thank you and have a great day.]
CindyHi SG,
It looks like, by the diagram, that I do not have to take the whole top door apart? I did have it all apart and still could not figure how to get to the baffle seal. I see by this diagram that just as you said before that I have to remove only the kick plate. I'll try that one tonight or this weekend. I did get the parts all back together ok because it is still working. I guess that's a good sign. I'll let you know what happens. You gave me hope again of being able to do this myself. Thank you and have a great day.]
I removed the kick plate (the piece between the floor kick plate and the actual door). I still could not see baffle seal. What is very interesting about this leak is that it does not leak during the whole cycle but 10 to 20 miutes after the cycle stops. I did take a picture but I have to down load it and I will try to e-mail it to you.
Still trying,
CindyHi SG,
I removed the kick plate (the piece between the floor kick plate and the actual door). I still could not see baffle seal. What is very interesting about this leak is that it does not leak during the whole cycle but 10 to 20 miutes after the cycle stops. I did take a picture but I have to down load it and I will try to e-mail it to you.
Still trying,
Cindy
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Cynthia, There's a flood/safety switch in the dishwasher. It's there to monitor the water level. It does this by rising as the water rises... if it gets too high, it'll shut the water off. Open the door and remove the lower rack. You'll see it right there in front. Lift and drop it several times to clear any debris. (In order for the dishwasher to get water, it has to be all the way down.) Now try your dishwasher.
Hi Cynthia, I'm glad you got your DW back! Now lets tackle that pesky leak issue. I'll need the exact model number in order to look up parts for you, the door seal specifically. Follow this link for help locating it. Just post back with that info and I'll take it from there. It would also help if you could snap a pic of the dishwasher (where you believe the problem is), upload it to PhotoBucket and post a link for me. That would allow me to see what you are seeing.
Thanks Cynthia, SG
Hi Cynthia, I'm glad you got your DW back! Now lets tackle that pesky leak issue. I'll need the exact model number in order to look up parts for you, the door seal specifically. Follow this link for help locating it. Just post back with that info and I'll take it from there. It would also help if you could snap a pic of the dishwasher (where you believe the problem is), upload it to PhotoBucket and post a link for me. That would allow me to see what you are seeing.
Hi Cindy, Thanks for the model number. I'm having some difficulty locating the exact part you mentioned. Take a look at this diagram and see if you can identify it for me? Otherwise, go here and scroll through the sub-components and see if you can find a diagram, OK? I have a feeling that you are talking about the door baffle seal (#24 in the first diagram), but I'm not sure.
Thanks, SG
Hi Cindy, Thanks for the model number. I'm having some difficulty locating the exact part you mentioned. Take a look at this diagram and see if you can identify it for me? Otherwise, go here and scroll through the sub-components and see if you can find a diagram, OK? I have a feeling that you are talking about the door baffle seal (#24 in the first diagram), but I'm not sure.
Hi Cindy, Parts availability is kinda hit and miss. It appears that this site has one (#24), but you never know. It may show on their computer as in stock, but I'd call and ask them to physically put their hands on it to confirm. Here's another site that shows to have one in stock. By the way, the original part number (5300809636) has "subbed" to a new number. The new number is a 154126601.
As for the repair itself... First, print out the exploded diagram of the door from the link above. The baffle is connected to the inner door by 2 screws. To get to them and remove the old baffle, the door will have to come apart. Open the door and remove all the screws you see that connect the inner panel to the outer panel (look at the perimeter of the inner panel). The 2 parts will now separate and give you access to the baffle. Remove the old one, install the new one and rebuild!
Repair should be a snap. MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE POWER OFF WHEN YOU DO THIS REPAIR because when you separate the 2 panels, you'll be exposing live wires.
Let me know how it goes, OK?
SG
Hi Cindy, Parts availability is kinda hit and miss. It appears that this site has one (#24), but you never know. It may show on their computer as in stock, but I'd call and ask them to physically put their hands on it to confirm. Here's another site that shows to have one in stock. By the way, the original part number (5300809636) has "subbed" to a new number. The new number is a 154126601.
As for the repair itself... First, print out the exploded diagram of the door from the link above. The baffle is connected to the inner door by 2 screws. To get to them and remove the old baffle, the door will have to come apart. Open the door and remove all the screws you see that connect the inner panel to the outer panel (look at the perimeter of the inner panel). The 2 parts will now separate and give you access to the baffle. Remove the old one, install the new one and rebuild!
Repair should be a snap. MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE POWER OFF WHEN YOU DO THIS REPAIR because when you separate the 2 panels, you'll be exposing live wires.
Cindy, Yeah, you probably need to remove the "kick plate". The screws are most likely hidden. There are 2 screws below (just above the floor), and 2 screws above. The top ones are hard to see... you have to open the door and look down. See this pic? This isn't your model DW, but it'll show where to find the screws.
After you get the kick plate off, you should be able to get to the baffle.
SG
Cindy, Yeah, you probably need to remove the "kick plate". The screws are most likely hidden. There are 2 screws below (just above the floor), and 2 screws above. The top ones are hard to see... you have to open the door and look down. See this pic? This isn't your model DW, but it'll show where to find the screws.
After you get the kick plate off, you should be able to get to the baffle.
Hi Cindy, Since you already have the 2 from the top out, all you gotta do now is remove the bottom ones... see the pic?
I know that the pic above is NOT your model, but All of the bottom kick plate screws are in the same place no matter the brand. If you have questions, holler at me.
SG
Hi Cindy, Since you already have the 2 from the top out, all you gotta do now is remove the bottom ones... see the pic?
I know that the pic above is NOT your model, but All of the bottom kick plate screws are in the same place no matter the brand. If you have questions, holler at me.
SG
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Hi,
I have an older dishwasher also and recently mywife also complained about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I amtried in vain to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installedthem in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also foundthat if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess things up bad...So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out the heating element to makesure it is working... Here is a tip that will help you with the onlinebuying...
Dishwasher SprayArms not Spinning
Your lower spray arm is probably clogged. The clog may be caused by grease or scum OR it could be from bits of debris that has not been flushed from the machine. Generally, the lower spray arm is easily removed by unscrewing a nut or thumb screw on the top of the arm. The arm will lift off easily and you can flush it at your kitchen sink. I sometimes have to take a toothpick, a brush, and/or tweezers to remove bits of paper, bone, or peelings. You can also soak it in ammonia to cut the grease that may have built up inside it. Then put it in place and rescrew the nut or screw.This should restore the water pressure. I hope this helps. If it does, please come back to Fixya and rate my solution
There is a pipe/tube that runs up the back of the inside of your dishwasher. This provides water for the top spray arm. The spray arm has a feeder tube that covers the pipe in the back. If for some reason the feeder tube has come dislodged, the water just drips back down into the dishwasher, never touching your upper shelf. My kids used to jam cutting boards and other large items into the lower shelf and in so doing, would dislodge the upper spray arm feeder tube. Just pull out the upper shelf and check to see that the tube is in the correct position. This should solve the problem.
If not, then the spray arm may have debris in it that keeps the water from being forced through the jets. You'll need to flush the arm with the spray attachment on your kitchen sink. I sometimes use tweezers or a toothpick to dislodge bits of peelings, paper, or bone that manage to get into the sprayer arm. I hope one of these tips helps. If it does,please come back to fixya and rate my answer.
Hello; first thing to check, which you don't mention, is which side of the glasses aren't coming clean; the outside, which would be caused by the TOP spray not working properly, or the INSIDE, which would be caused by the spray BELOW the top rack not working. The most common problem causing a spray arm not to turn, and/or poor cleaning, is debris blocking some or all of the spray holes in the arm. Best and easiest way to check them is to remove them; they usually are easily removed with a large wing nut or screw in the center. (Don't drop the screw, if you do it will ALWAYS find it's way to the hardest spot to retrieve it from in the whole dishwasher!)
Once you have the spray arm(s) out (this might be a good time to clean them all) you may notice pieces of debris partially protruding from the spray holes. DON'T pull them out; use something to push them back inside the spray arm. Pulling them out can enlarge and mis-shape the spray holes.
Dislodge any pieces inside the arm by firmly rapping it against a firm but padded object, and shake the debris out over the sink, catching it in a paper towel so it won't go down the drain. Be careful, as broken glass is often inside the spray arms, picked off the bottom of the tub and fed through the pump to the sprays.
Once you don't get any rattling inside after several "raps" on the padded object, the arm should be clean.
Cleaning these spray arms periodically is a good idea even before you have trouble.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Alec
? Be careful not to load items so close to the dispenser that the cover will not open to release the detergent. ? The dispenser is not supposed to open when you use the Rinse program. ? Your dishwasher detergent should be fresh and stored tightly closed in a cool, dry place. Old or caked detergent should be thrown away because it will not dissolve properly and will leave a gritty residue on the dishware. ? Wait until you are ready to start the dishwasher to add the detergent. ? If you are using the Delay program, make sure the dispenser is dry before adding the detergent. ? The detergent compartment only opens in the main wash programs, not the Rinse program.
YOU MAY NEED TO CLEAN THE FILTERS MORE OFTEN IF YOUR AREA HAS HARD WATER This can cause low water pressure. In
hard water areas, it may be necessary to clean chemical buildup from
the filters every 12 to 18 months. To do this, remove the coarse filter
by squeezing the tabs and lifting it out. Next, unscrew the fine
filter and lift it and the main filter out. Wash all three filters
gently in hot, soapy water and rinse them thoroughly.
Your spray arms may be clogging causing low pressure too. Spray-arm
jets and bearings may sometimes become clogged with hard water
chemicals. To remove the spray arms, screw off the nut and take off the
washer on top of the spray arm and lift off the arm. Wash the spray arms
in warm, soapy water. Use a soft brush to clean the jets. Rinse
thoroughly and replace.
Try cleaning the drain pump so it gives
you more water pressure.On occasion something may get through the
filters and into the drain pump. The drain pumps on ASKO dishwashers are
designed to automatically reverse if anything should get caught in the
propellers, thus ejecting the item back into the sump area or down the drain.
Should you need to remove an obstacle from the drain, first turn the
power off then remove the filters . Next, lift
out the small black insert from the sump area. (You might want to
remove any standing water first.) You can then look into the sump area
for the item causing the obstruction. Should you find something, simply scoop it out. Be sure to replace the black insert before you put the filters back in.
You could also try to clean the dishwasher with ' Dishwasher Magic '. This would work like charm :-
if it is just affecting the upper rack i doubt it is just a plugged spray arm (though i could be wrong). more likely than not you have a blockage on the intake of your spray pump motor. a series of bones, toothpicks, foreign material, etc could be blocking the entrance of the pump causing it to starve for water so to speak. you will more than likely need to remove the lower rack and spray arm to be able to disassemble the strainer and gain access to the sump. a complete model number would help bunches to.. alas
Hi, the problem here is you have a piece of glass or something similar caught in the chopper blade. Pull the lower spray arm out and then remove the screws and the filter and the rest of the assembly inside the dishwasher until you get to the chopper blade. Then remove the debris. Put the dishwasher back together and you should be all set. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment. Mike
I have used this before and it works great! Dishwasher Majic. Sears' site is down I was going to post a link to it but I found this one instead. I work on all types of used dishwashers and It returns the inside to "like new". The short video link I am sending to you will tell you how to use it and I learned something myself by watching it...you can get it at wal-mart! Good Luck and write back with any additional problems!
P.S. Dont remove the spray arm when you use this. If you want you can remove the spray arm and spray some slightly pressurized water into the core of the spray arm to try to push out any buildup that will sometimes get in them and then run the unit with dishwasher majic and spray arms in place.
There is a screen that you can remove from the sump of the dishwasher to clean. Just twist it to the left and pull it out. I have some tips that you might want to check out if this does not resolve your problem. <a href="http://tclaundryrepair.com/">St Paul Appliance Repair</a>
Penrod, sounds like a circulation problem. Two things to check first. make sure the upper spray arm is not clogged with debris or split. Second is to twist and remove the filter and clear out any debris where the water enters the circulation pump impeller. If something has jammed the impeller, you would have to remove the dishwasher, remove the tank, remove the circulation motor and clean out the impeller...Catriver...post back.
That makes sense because I also put some silicone around that bobber because it was rusting. I must have put it too high not allowing the bobber to go all the way down. I will try this tonight. Thank you so much.
Cindy
Dear SG,
I will be so grateful if it works. Sears wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to just have them come to look at it. I will certainly let you know. I hope you have a great weekend.
Cindy
Dear SG,
I wanted to thank you for your help. I pushed down the bobber a couple of times and the last time really hard and it started working. The water is now coming in. It is still leaking though. I wonder if it is the rubber seal around the door. It is hanging down on the bottom of the door. Is that a hard thing to fix? Can I take the door off and fix it?
Thanks again for the advice. It worked and I am very happy about that.
Cindy
Dear SG,
I finally got the model number. It is #587.1444990. I have other numbers off the dishwasher if you need them. It is a Sears Kenmore small size dishwasher.
Thank you again,
Cindy
Dear SG,
I have a feeling you are right about the baffle seal. #24 in the diagram is where the part is hanging out. Do you think it is possible to get this part anywhere?
thank you again,
Cindy
Dear SG Guru,
Thank you for finding the part. I will definately let you know how it goes. I'll call today.
Thanks again,
Cindy
Dear SG,
I tore the dishwasher apart last night. I can't quite figure out how to get to the #24. Do I have to take out the screws on the bottom of the door #30 that holds on part #31? It seems when I pull #31 out a little bit #24 should be there but it is not there is another part, I think it is #27. This diagram is not exactly like mine. There is a top part of the door that did not come off. I wonder if there is another diagram? I'm just not certain how to get to the part. Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
Cindy
Dear SG,
I did take those screws out but I did not remove the ones that are on the bottom of, I believe it is part #27. they are only a couple of inches off the floor and I was hoping I would not have to take them out. But I guess I'd better get a very short screwdriver. Right? I think those are the only screws left that is holding it on.
Cindy
Hi SG,
It looks like, by the diagram, that I do not have to take the whole top door apart? I did have it all apart and still could not figure how to get to the baffle seal. I see by this diagram that just as you said before that I have to remove only the kick plate. I'll try that one tonight or this weekend. I did get the parts all back together ok because it is still working. I guess that's a good sign. I'll let you know what happens. You gave me hope again of being able to do this myself. Thank you and have a great day.]
Cindy
Hi SG,
I removed the kick plate (the piece between the floor kick plate and the actual door). I still could not see baffle seal. What is very interesting about this leak is that it does not leak during the whole cycle but 10 to 20 miutes after the cycle stops. I did take a picture but I have to down load it and I will try to e-mail it to you.
Still trying,
Cindy
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