Display error code of Lr on control panel

The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason. By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing. The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down. You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

More information on when the error is occurring would be helpful resolving this problem. Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down. This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes. At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.

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Hello.

Frigidaire front-loading washing machines have an electronic control panel where the wash cycle and any other wash options are selected, and the wash cycle is initiated and stopped, if necessary. The control panel also has indicator lights that show the washer status and will display an error code if there are issues with the washer. The "E20" error code indicates a possible pump problem.

Blocked Pump

One of the primary reasons why there may be an "E20" error code on a Frigidaire front-loading washing machine is if there is something blocking the pump. Disconnect the washing machine from the power and release the clips on each side to remove the front access panel. Set a container under the pump drain, which is located on the lower right side of the washing machine. Open the pump drain plug and allow it to drain. Clean out any debris that might be causing the obstruction, then close the drain plug. Close the access panel and restore power to the washer.

Drain Hose

If the drain hose is blocked or crimped, the water may not pump out fast enough, causing the pump error to appear on the display. Straighten out the drain hose in the rear of the washing machine and move it away from the washer if it's trapped between the wall and the washing machine.

Oversudsing

If too much detergent--or the wrong kind of detergent--is used in the washing machine, too many suds may result. This can overwhelm the drain and pump system, resulting in the error. Use only high efficiency (HE) laundry detergent with Frigidaire washing machines and follow specific instructions on the laundry container for the recommended amount of detergent. Run a drain cycle if there are excess suds in the washer to clear out the system.

Pressure Switch or Control Boar

The pressure switch may not be communicating properly with the control board, which can cause the E20 error to occur. The other possibility for the E20 error code is if the control board has failed entirely. Try to reset the washing machine by pressing "Stop/Cancel" and disconnecting the washing machine power cord. Wait 30 seconds, then restore power. Make a new cycle selection and press "Start" to see if the error code returns. If it does, turn off the washing machine and contact Frigidaire for repair.

Thanks.

I tired answering yuor post and there is a problem with the website. I have reported same to the website staff. You should see my post via email soon

Kelly

Tom,

The LR error code can be a tough one to troubleshoot but I'll see what if any help I can be.

The LR code stands for Locked Rotor.
If you Power Cycle the 120VAC to the machine will the error code clear?
What cycle was the machine in when you took the error code wash, spin?
If you remove the front panel and with the 120VAC power cord removed from the service outlet can you rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) or CW (wash/agitate) direction.
Sounds like you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual.
Let’s see if the drive system is free and not locked up…………Rich

The “Lr” = Locked Rotor: The machine has repeatedly tried to turn the motor.

I have seen this issue caused by a failed motor. I have seen a bad Control Board cause this issue and a bad Motor Controller cause this issue.

If the Lr error code happened in the Spin Cycle of the wash cycle it could be caused by seized Outer Tub bearings.

Without a known good Control Board and Motor Control board this could be difficult to troubleshoot.

Here is a link for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





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Hello djlampl,

With the lowest spin cycle setting I enter spin cycle in Quick Wash around the 21 minute mark. But first question is do you hear the grinding noise with the tumblers rotating during the wash/agitate cycle?

If you start a spin only cycle do you hear the grinding noise?

Does the washer error code out with an error code to the display? Codes such as dC, uC, Lr?, I assume the machine type is a FAV6800AW is that correct?

Any additional info will help in troubleshooting…..Rich

Assuming the machine type is a FAV6800A/FAV9800A here are some handy links;

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

The problem was with the component that i suspected, the motor control board. I replaced it and everything is operating as designed. Thanks for your feedback and confirmation of my thoughts.

locked rotor you need a new motor control

The control panel needs to be replaced (indicated by the "2H" error code displayed at the start of the cycle).
BTW - The number 1 displayed at the end of the cycle indicates the cycle has timed out (i.e., it doesn't mean 1 minute remaining). Hence the continued running of the unit. Until you replace the control panel, you'll have to manually cancel the cycle at this point.