Cold air smoke? Do you mean refrigerant gas? If so, you will need to have this checked professionally. Keep clear of the refrigerant discharge - it can freeze skin almost instantly.
Testimonial: "yeah I guess it's refrigerant gas..sorry didn't know the term. the freezer didn't blow out so much of this gas when the fridge was working...what could be the problem here? Is it because of the heavy load in the fridge or something else that has caused the fridge section to conk off??"
If it is refrigerant, the compressor will not run. The system will need to have the source of the leak located and sealed. Next, would be recharging refrigerant into the system. If the compressor wasn't damaged and runs again - and the fridge is getting colder - you're done. The problem is that these repairs tend to get pricey. Most cooling lines are aluminum and are difficult to fix. Fridges usually do not have charging ports so they will need to be installed. If this fridge is older - it may make more sense to purchase a replacement - preferably a more energy efficient type - other wise a newer used one (craigslist?), etc. In any case, you will not be able to purchase refrigerant without an EPA certificate - but if you had one of those - you wouldn't be asking here. As to why is "let go" is anyones guess really. Call you local appliance repair shop, explain what happened and they might even tell you over the phone it is not worth the trip to look at it (based on make / model / age of the fridge). Good luck!
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SOURCE: Kenmore Trio 596.75509400
My problem is identical to jcalhoun on Sep 21, 2008..I have a Kenmore Trio 596.75502400. Freezer is ok..Lights are on. Any help would be appreciated.
SOURCE: whirlpool fridge not cooling gone warm air blowing
more than likely the compressor is not starting, it has a starting device on the left side of the compressor which has a relay/overload called a relay, remove the relay and shake it , if it rattles it has gone bad. the relay/overload combination has gone bad and can be replaced with pro41 relay. if the compressor has a run capacitor just eliminate the capacitor when replacing with new relay. connection of the two wires makes no difference.
SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge
Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
SG
SOURCE: fridge stopped being cold and freezer not freezing
Switch off the refrigerator. Let all ice melt completely. it may take 4 hours. Switch it ON again. does it work better for 2-3 days. if yes,change bimetal and timer.
You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
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yeah I guess it's refrigerant gas..sorry didn't know the term. the freezer didn't blow out so much of this gas when the fridge was working...what could be the problem here? Is it because of the heavy load in the fridge or something else that has caused the fridge section to conk off??
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