Pt- red light on

bad amp. the blinking is an indication reading out a error code.

If the lights on your sub box aren't coming on it's either your ground of power wire came loose or the transformer blew. As for the subs, make sure all the connections are good, especially on your RCA wires. If your amp is getting power, then check your speaker connections. Also, make sure to turn the gain know up. The gain knob is located next to the RCA input on the amp. Let me know if this helps.

Disconnect that "best cabling" and see if the hum stays or goes away. If it stays, the issue is internal to the sub - likely a bad shield or ground point somewhere.

If it goes away, maybe a cable shield between the sub and the source is open, allowing atmospheric noise in. Swap or reseat it.

Interesting reading...

http://www.theaudiocritic.com/downloads/article_1.pdf

Sounds to me like the amp is going into protection mode. Try placing one sub on the amp with very little gain. One of the biggest reason why this happens is because the subwoofers are wired wrong. What is the brand and model number for your amp?

Here's how it goes:
Speaker wires:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
black=chassis ground
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
grey lead:
red=right front
white=left front
black lead:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red lead:
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
green lead:
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.

It means that the subwoofer is blown. The red light is called the Protect light. Disconnect the speaker wire from the amp and then turn the amp on and see if the red light goes away. But if as soon as you hook the speaker wires back to the amp and the red light turns on that DEFINATELY means the sub is blown.

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. D .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. http://www.nitrobmw.com/

Have you tried replacing all of your fuses? If that does'nt work check your ground........ I would check all your connections also could be a connection shorting out causing your red light to come on.

was the amp hooked directly to the box? You probably rattled the power connections from the circuit board like I did on a PT 800 watt amp.but check amp fuses first.

here is a short test you can try, remove the rca audio cable from the amp & connect a diskman or toher audio o/p device that you can hook up with the same rca wires, turn on the amp & see if you have sound. you can also remove the speaker wires from the sub & using multi meter read the ohm's of the sub, most subs are 4 ohm. Hope this help locate your problem