Question about RCA F32450 32" TV

2 Answers

RCA F32450 TV will not power on. When I press the on/off switch I get a flashing power light. When I unplug the set, I hear both speakers thump as it powers down. No high voltage. Thanks Truman McManus

Posted by trumanmc on

  • 8 more comments 
  • trumanmc Aug 27, 2007

    Hi Benimur,
    I should have said more in my first post. When I got the set I had a high pitched sound from the FPT and no flashing on/off light when it was plugged in. I replaced the horz. output transistor (all legs were shorted)and this took care of the high pitched sound. Then I had the flashing on/off light. I will check the inductor/coil. Is this on the main board or a daughter board?
    I've worked in electronics for 40 years but I am not very sharp with tv's anymore.
    Thanks,
    Truman

  • trumanmc Aug 27, 2007

    Benimur,
    Yes, the h-out. is a 2sc5448. The chassis no. is ATC113 (CEM1) I removed, cleaned and re-soldered L04. I do have 140v on the fbt.
    There are no swollen Caps.
    Thanks,
    Truman

  • trumanmc Aug 27, 2007

    The chassis no. I sent you I found on rear of main board. This may just be the number for the blank board. The "service no." on the back of the set is F32450yx01

    Truman

  • trumanmc Aug 28, 2007

    Hi Benimur,
    Do you know the no. of the drive transistor and the transformer? Could you describe the tripler for me.
    Thanks,
    Truman

  • trumanmc Aug 28, 2007

    Hi Benimur,
    I do not have a schematic for the set. a Sames for this set cost $28. I am trying to spend as little as possible. I am retired and raise greenhouse tomatoes and it's the off season. I was hoping for a quick fix with FixYa.
    The set does not have a tripler. The anode lead goes from the FBT to the tube.
    Truman

  • trumanmc Aug 29, 2007

    Hi Benimur,
    I checked the horizontal drive transistor and it's OK. Besides the 140v supply, I also read a 40v supply.I also checked all the diodes that look like they are in the hoz. circuit.
    Thanks,
    Truman

  • trumanmc Sep 05, 2007

    I have a 140v and a 40v supply. If the set is in a "safe Mode" what supply is missing to shut it down? I do not have a schematic but if someone could supply me with some voltage readings it would help.
    Thanks,
    Truman

  • trumanmc Sep 05, 2007

    Thanks a bunch,
    Send to [email protected]
    I'll let you know what I find.

    Thanks again
    Truman

  • trumanmc Sep 06, 2007

    Thanks Dave,
    ON page 2 the TFC-04007 I do not have 2.7v at pin 18 of BR103. I have changed TL02. I can't find IU01. Can you help?
    Truman

  • trumanmc Sep 10, 2007

    IT"S FIXED!!!!!!
    Thanks for everyone's help. The problem was the horz. output transistor and the horz. output transformer. I now have a good looking 32in. TV for $45.00. I ordered parts from Electronix Corp. They have good prices and fast service.

    Thanks again,
    Truman

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David Makowski

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I have a PDF file of the Training Manual and Troubleshooting flowcharts for the ATC113 chassis- if you want it,let me know where to send it.

Posted on Sep 05, 2007

  • David Makowski
    David Makowski Sep 07, 2007

    It's the driver IC on the CRT socket

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Louie Role

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Hi, It appears that your unit has switched to protective mode (hence also no HV). When you unplug the set and "speakers thump", that would mean that the low B+ is still active and your SMPS is good. Your post "No high voltage" leads me to believe that you have a fair idea of working inside a TV. Should you venture to do-it-yourself (of course the standard precaution when working with TV units specially HV section), try checking: 1. an inductor/coil supplying the main B+ to the horz (probably L14???), resolder fully; 2. the Horizontal circuitry with special attention to the HOT (TL0?) and the FBT. It may also be a good idea to have the FBT ring tested. Other than above, it's the usual check with your VOM with attention to B+ line. Hope this be of some help/idea. Good luck and kind regards.

Posted on Aug 27, 2007

  • 3 more comments 
  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 27, 2007

    Hi again Truman,

    I hope your chassis # is ATC113CD2.

    The inductor/coil is in series to the B+ leading to the FBT (not the one going to the collector), but if you can check for the presence of the B+ (140 I think) at the FBT, then you're good. I might add that there is another smaller coil from the HDT leading to the base of the HOT. Am not sure if it is tagged as L4401 or L04, but in any case remove, scrape clean the terminals/pins (might be some wax), check for the windings of the fine wire (if it uses), solder back generously.

    If that doesn't do the trick, look for capacitors that have swelled.

    Btw, what was the H-out 2SC5148?

    Cheers.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 28, 2007

    Hello Truman,

    For the moment check for B+ supply to one of the terminals of the horizontal drive transformer. Might as well check the drive transistor (unlikely but still a possibility).

    Do you think you have HV now? but still no pic, if your model/version has a tripler after the FBT, worth checking also.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 28, 2007

    In some models the tripler has a white(?)lead wire that senses over/under voltage or fault and triggers cutoff. Momentary disconnecting would disengage the autoprotect and hopefully run the unit albeit possibility of smoking something.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 28, 2007

    drive transistor and the transformer - don't recall the numbers, the only reason the I was able to give you the parts on earlier post was because they were the ones I had replaced and looked at when I was fixing an RCA a couple of months back. But you can trace it back, the base of the HOT goes to one output terminal of the horizontal drive transformer with the other terminal going to ground. The opposite winding, one terminal goes to a B+ supply (might not be the 140) normally via a dropping resistor and the other terminal goes to the collector of the horizontal drive transistor.

    tripler - most FBTs have the anode wire that ends into the anode cap going to the HV hole of the picture tube. Some CTVs with really big picture tube would need really high HV not ordinarily available from the FBT. The tripler is connected by an HV wire from the FBT and is in series before going to the anode cap. In effect it triples the FBT output. Connections might be as simple as in from FBT, out to anode cap, a gnd and a trigger connector for HV fault protection. Physically it can no more than be 1 & a half in. wide, 3-4 inches tall and bout half an inch thick. It is normally not installed on the mainboard but rather on a bracket or picture tube inner shield/casing.

    Do you have a schematic or service manual for your set?

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 29, 2007

    Truman I understand. Bear with me as I try to check if I can locate a pdf of the schematics or can source additional information for you.

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