You will need to replace the tub support and bearing. I replace this all the time for the same problem. Here is the kit to order.
DID NOT GET THE KIT TO ORDER INFORMATION
Sorry about that! Here is the part to order. http://bit.ly/126UuJt
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SOURCE: The washing machine started making a grinding
sounds like a bearing... although it could be the water pump... water pump is an easy fix... bearing is not an easy fix... take the belt off the bottom of the pump (under the machine) and see if it spins freely by turning it w/ your hand... or if it seems really stiff... if it looks good then it's def. your bearing...
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Max Extract Quit Working
More information about the problem is needed...there are two levels of spinning..."regular" and "Max Extract" The Max setting spins the tub much faster. If you are having trouble with really wet clothes being left in the washer...haven't really been spun at all...this might have a couple of solutions. First, check the "out of balance" switch (a little plastic square with two green wires attached) located at the base of the tub on the front on my stacked unit. Because of the vibration in the tub, the wires on mine have broken twice.right at the switch. The other possibility is the main circuit board. Check out the internet for solutions/replacements.
My washer's Max setting is not working...and I don't know the reason for this...any help? Thanks...
SOURCE: No Spin Cycle
Your machine won't go into spin cycle most probably because it awaits for pump to start extracting water out of the basket. If the "Door Locked" light is on th an it means that either filter, pump or drain hose are clogged (unless pump burned). Turn off machine, unplug the machine, clean the filter, check for foreign objects inside filter and pump housing and finally check/unclog the drain hose.
SOURCE: Spin Cycle Fails on Washer
This solution is 100% correct, change the : wax motor &control board.I'll be happy to guide you through this if you need me to.
SOURCE: making screeching noise during spin cycle
Problem: very irritating squealing sound when washer is spinning or coasting to a stop after the spin cycle.
Case: 1. Snubber damage defective.
2. Foreign material (sand/dust or grit) is on the base.
Solution: 1. Replace the snubber.
2. clean base.
The snubber is a ring that is located between the convex (domed up) center portion of the base and the domed down center portion of the LEG & DOME ASSEMBLY.
The snubber has teflon strips at the top and bottom edges that slide easily on the base as well as the underside of the leg and dome assembly.
This system makes the machine very stable by providing isolation between the leg & dome assy. Which carries both the inner and outer tubs, as well as the main motor and transmission and the base; which is of course connected to the cabinet. This means that the machine is capable of spinning out of balance loads.
As simple as this system is, if one on the strips is bent or there is some foreign material on the base in the snubber area, the result can be an extremely obnoxious scratching or squealing sound that can make the consumer very unhappy.
A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.
The following procedure should be followed to diagnose and eliminate this condition:
Removing the snubber:
The base must be wiped whether the snubber is replaced or not. Any residue whether it is dust or grit of any kind (other than belt residue as noted above) can cause the objectionable sound to occur.
Remove the front service panel and place the timer in the spin cycle and start the machine. You want to try to duplicate the complaint. Inspect the base for sign of any foreign material. Lift the top panel up and over and lean it against the rear wall.
You will need a tool to raise the entire Leg & Dome Assembly (to which the main motor, tubs and transmission are attached). The machine will not need to be disassembled; the springs will not even be released.
Some Techs use a length of two-by-four" to raise the assembly. A pry-bar makes a superior tool when combined with a block of wood to act as a fulcrum (or pivot point).
Before raising the assembly, pull forward on it so that when you do raise it, the rear of the tub cover does not catch on the rear cabinet frame as it is being lifted.
Using your body weight, raise the assembly high enough to slide the snubber out. You will need to inspect the snubber for defects or damage. It is a good idea to be prepared with some sort of supports (like 3/4 inch pieces of wood) to slide between the lower edge of the assembly and the base to help support it if it were to slide off your pry-bar.
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