No Power at all after loud short buzzing sound

The cook relay on your control board is shorted, and the unit is cooking whenever you close the door.

When the magnetron overheats, its thermostat opens, shutting power down until the unit cools to a safe level, then power is restored.

I regularly repair these with my $54.95 service, which includes insured return shipping.

Details are here, or for full information and instructions, please e-mail me here at [email protected] and remind me of your full model number and symptoms.

Check this link for some tips that you can try http://www.partselect.com/microwave+no-heat+repair.htm

Hope that helps..........

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Aug 12, 2011 - 10 posts - ‎2 authors
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This is a strong indicator the magnetron is fried, also! this is the most expensive part to replace in the microwave oven, and in most cases cheaper to replace the whole unit.

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

This is a job for a professional but if you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

Load test.

A simple safety test.
Place 1/2 litre of water in a glass container. Measure the temperature of the water.
Place in microwave and heat on full power for 1minute.
Measure the temperature after it has stood for 1minute.
If the temperature difference is more than 9 degrees Celcuis the magnetron is working and producing about 700Watts of heat.
If your microwave is labelled with 900 or 1000Watts. That is about right.
If the temperature is less then the magnetron is not working properly and may need replacing.

This a only a rough guide and any doubts you should consult an authorised service agent.

If it does not heat and makes a loud buzzing sound, it usually means that the magnetron has failed. It the part that generatest the microwaves that heat the food. Replacement costs for magnetrons is almost as much as a new oven, so it rarely makes sense to fix. Sorry.

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

This is a job for a professional but if you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

Load test.

A simple safety test.
Place 1/2 litre of water in a glass container. Measure the temperature of the water.
Place in microwave and heat on full power for 1minute.
Measure the temperature after it has stood for 1minute.
If the temperature difference is more than 9 degrees Celcuis the magnetron is working and producing about 700Watts of heat.
If your microwave is labelled with 900 or 1000Watts. That is about right.
If the temperature is less then the magnetron is not working properly and may need replacing.

This a only a rough guide and any doubts you should consult an authorised service agent.

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

This is a job for a professional but if you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

Load test.

A simple safety test.
Place 1/2 litre of water in a glass container. Measure the temperature of the water.
Place in microwave and heat on full power for 1minute.
Measure the temperature after it has stood for 1minute.
If the temperature difference is more than 9 degrees Celcuis the magnetron is working and producing about 700Watts of heat.
If your microwave is labelled with 900 or 1000Watts. That is about right.
If the temperature is less then the magnetron is not working properly and may need replacing.

This a only a rough guide and any doubts you should consult an authorised service agent.

Q - The microwave display counts down and the inside light is on,  but nothing is heating and the fan is not running.
A - This most commonly is a bad door switch, other possible problems are a faulty relay or solder joint on the power module, but a bad door switch is most common.
 Q - My microwave is running and sounds like it is working but will not heat up anything.
A - Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay.....
Q - The microwave makes a loud "hum or buzz" noise but will not heat up the food?
A - 9 times out of 10 this is usually this is a bad magnetron, the other time is sometimes a bad high voltage diode. See components section.

Have you tried putting a cup of water in it and cooking on a low power level? If it buzzes only when it is on the cook cycle, that would narrow it down. More detals might help us help you, including the model number.