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Ok so i had my system out of my car and in my house for about 3 months. i decided to put it back in, only this time i mounted the amp on the side of my box. I have a Kenwood KAC7202 amp and 2 12" Kenwood subs in a sealed box. Ok so everything was fine for a couple of days until when I was headin back up to school, i was bumping good but with no distortion or abnormal noise of any kind. All of a sudden the bass cut out. i checcked the fuse under the hood and the fuse on the amp all are fine. the head unit didnt say line in for a few days which i think means it recognizes the amp is connected, but it later came on. when i turn my key on and the radio comes on, the light and the fan on the amp turn on and ten slowly turn off. i did a test to see if the ground wasnt good enough i took the main fuse out, redid my ground by sanding down the metal it is touching and reconnected the ground, meanwhile i turned my key back on to see if it would work but it did the same thing as before, but i then realized that i hadnt even connected the main fuse back again, meaning it made no difference in the light and fan comin on an slowly turning off when i had the fuse in or not. this makes me come to believe its a power issue since it does the same thing when the fuse isnt even in it. any ideas, should i take the amp apart and look at its guts. thanks anything would be helpful. let me know if u need any more info. im running 4 guage power wire and the system is about 3 years old. 80A fuse under the hood. thanks
ok i just took apart the amp and looked at both the main board and the board with the fan and light connected to it. all solders look fine and nothing looks popped or fried, everything is normal. im goin crazy what the hell is wrong
ok i just took apart the amp and looked at both the main board and the board with the fan and light connected to it. all solders look fine and nothing looks popped or fried, everything is normal. im goin crazy what the hell is wrong
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First you should test to be sure the amps main power feed is supplying 12+ volts to the amp. and that the other connections (head unit remote lead - input & output signal leads) are properly secured, if all is well then there maybe an internal issue with the amp.
It is not recommended to affix an amp directly to a speaker/kicker box, hence the vibration that may cause wire connections and/or internal electronic components to become loose or faulty.
As far as "should i take the amp apart and look at its guts"
NO, sorry but given the way you phrased your question I can assume that your electronic troubleshooting knowledge is not up to par, and that task would be a waste of your time.
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Most stock receivers do not have a dedicated amp remote lead and your 2004 Corolla is no exception.
The amp remote can be connected to any switched and fused 12V + source including the OEM receiver accessory wire which is the gray wire in your receiver harness.
Check the zener diodes over by the fuses, where the 2 chokes or load coils are. TThere are 3 or 4 Of the diodes, they are zener diodes. I had the same problem and found it to be one bad zener diode. Check my solution out on the 7202, same thing.
Since you haven't received a response, I'll try to help you through the troubleshooting. The amp probably has shorted output transistors but before you start checking components, you need to 'confirm' that you have no bad connections in the power line.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage goes below ~11 volts when the amp shuts off, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
I have found the problem to my Kenwood KAC-7202. The amps fan was the only thing that would come on thats it. So I started checkin zener diodes cause all transistors checked out fine. So I remember readinf about a guy that had same problem and took it to a shop and they said it was some diodes. Well, thats what I was thinkin or the transformer. It turned out that 1 zener diode was no good, diode D9 1ss133. I took a zener out of an old vcr I use for parts and put it in and the fan came on as usual then the red light. Then I hooked my mp3 player to the rca input and hooked up some speakers and it works great. Hope this helps you other guys with the same problem. Check your zener diodes with a digital volt meter, if you get any measurement other than the reverse impedance which will read between 600 and 1200 ohms some lower or higher and then reverse the leads on your meter and if you get any reading it's no good and the reading will be 0-50 cause mine read 047 ohms.
sounds like you have a problem with your grounding on you amplifier. check for shorts on your amplifier and the place where you have it grounded. (or check the power wire also.)
ok i just took apart the amp and looked at both the main board and the board with the fan and light connected to it. all solders look fine and nothing looks popped or fried, everything is normal. im goin crazy what the hell is wrong
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