Kenmore spinning off kilter

SOURCE: series 70 kenmore elite washing machine

If it goes through the complete cycle o.k. except for the slow spin then the motor itself needs to be checked.

SOURCE: Kenmore Top Load Washer Series 70

NO,your transmission is probably ok!! Inside your top end of agitator are these 4 plastic parts called "dogs" they need to be replaced.To be 100% sure ,do this first,Fill upthe machine on small load and while its washing look to see if the bottom end of agitator is moving back and forth ,if it is replace the dogs.In some machines you have to change the upper part of agitator.If the agitator is not turning at the bottom than,remove the top of agitator cover so you can get a extended half inch socket in to it and pull the agitator up and check the transmission splines.If they are smooth and cannot grab the agitator than your trans, is bad.

SOURCE: kenmore front load washer 417-44082400

My kenmore front load did that just a few months after I bought it. Unfortunately it was the the electronic board {brains of cycles} that had to be replaced. Had to replace it 3 times!! Warranty did cover it. Look into your warranty--at that time the boards were $200-$250 each!!

SOURCE: excess water in clothes after spin cycle

Unblock the outflow pipe from the machine that goes into the sump under the sink. (have a pot ready for water overflow) This will help drain the water. If the spin cycle is making a screetching sort of noise then it is possible that the carbon brushes will need changing. This affects the spinning if the brushes are worn.

SOURCE: Kenmore front load washer will not spin. Clothes come out wet.

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.



• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.