Water line clogged

FYI - Mine actually froze the water in the line.. had to remove the water filter, turn off the ice maker, pull the fridge away from the wall..remove the line from the fridge connection..laid it outside for a few hours until I could blow through it.. re-installed ..all ok..

Sounds like air in the line.....the filter may be cracked/damaged, or not quite seated...?

since you've tried 2 new ones....I'm gonna bet they are not quite the correct ones for your fridge.

Side like a water supply issue or a kinked line. Good pressure at first then weak pressure after a short time is a restriction in the water flow.

Hello. There is a test to check the water sensor directly using diag mode. From the service manual: Select a cycle and start the washer. Enter service mode and press *Extra Wash*. Turn the dial so that the *delicate LED* is turned on. Next, press the start/pause key. The Water Frequency will be displayed. The frequency will change as the washer fills. I hope you can read the text in the pic below...note in the lower left corner how to turn on the drain pump for that particular model of your washer. I've included a part of the schematic diagram showing the pressure sensor. To check if the pressure tube or air chamber is blocked, remove the black tube from the sensor, blow into it. You should hear air blowing inside the tub and have very little resistance to your air. What can happen is mold/mildew can form inside the air chamber or the hose and block it. Also, cheap detergents can do the same thing when bubbles dry up in the tube. MAKE DARN SURE THAT TUBE IS PUT BACK AND FITS TIGHTLY ON THE PRESSURE SWITCH--if it's loose, you can flood your house because the lack of pressure will tell the sensor to keep adding water in the washer. Conversely, if the hose is blocked, the sensor may think the washer already has water and nothing will come in. BTW, no matter if there is water in the machine or not--IF YOU PRESS *SIGNAL*, THAT PUMP BETTER START RUNNING! Now, there are instances where the information on the diag mode is INCORRECT. I run into this fairly often and have to call my tech support dept for clarification--usually there has been a software change--If the tech has already changed the main board, wiring harness(really rare for that to be bad), the pump, door switch, etc., my goodness, there isn't really anything left! There *is* a possibility that the user interface board is defective--look at it logically, if the main board, wiring harness, pump and door switch have all been replaced(that covers all the connections), and you even verified that power was getting to the pump through the wires, then, if the button on the front panel won't activate the pump, the board could be bad. Does the loudness of the beeps change when you press the signal button? It is fairly common to have a shorted or open connection on the user interface causing problems--have you had a power outage recently--3-4 weeks before the problem started? Surges are NOTORIOUS for damaging the boards in these puppies. I recommend to all my customers to have a whole-house surge protector installed in the breaker panel. Lemme know how you fare--sorry for the long-winded help! I hope I've provided some insight to help you! ALSO, NOTE THE RESISTANCE FOR THE WATER LEVEL SENSOR AS 22 OHMS-24 OHMS (+/-10%). Look at the pin outs on the schematic!

Is there a water filter in the unit and if so, when was the last time you changed it? If there is a water filter and the flow of water to the dispenser and icemaker could be impeded by a filter full of "stuff".

First make sure all the filters on all faucets (kitchen, bathrooms and even the dish washer and washer) are clean and not clogged, sometimes on areas with hard water you will experience sand and minerals to accumulate and clogged all filters. If all filter are clean with no minerals, then your problem could be the culligan filter, ask your sales rep to perform an inspection for minerals on all ending lines.

Hope this clear up your water lines. It happened to me.

check your fuel pump pressure and I'm sure you changed your fuel filter. Blow compressed air back through fuel line as it may be something floating in tank. Does flow change when gas cap is off? Is this 20 or 22R motor?

There are 3 types of the PSW26P. They are basically the same when it comes to changing water filters. I do not recommend placing air into the water system, I believe that is what at this point is the problem. After changing water filter there is a period of time that you need to push the dispense water switch to allow for the air that is trapped in filter to purge. One moment I will send links, Sea Breeze

Do you fill the machine with hot water only?

If so, this is what I suspect. The filters in the inlet hoses on the back of the washer need cleaning. Remove the garden hose connectors, remove filter, clean, replace.

When filling with hot only you get a lot of pressure thru one hose. When you rinse, the best you can do pressure-wise is cold rinse -- but the cold water filter is going to be more clogged than the hot so it delivers less water.

When you use warm rinse, you get mediium pressure thru both lines, again less water than al hot on filling the machine.

Disconnect the water pressure tank making sure the end the line hooks up to is open. The tank should be relatively light, and if you shake it you should not hear any water. If you hear water in it, or it feels heavy, that means the bladder inside the tank has failed. Replace the tank with a new one, and set the pressure on the bicycle type valve at 8 PSI before you connect the tank up to the water line.