Im not get any loud base, even with the gain at full turn

Hi, if you're going to run a smaller wire, you also need to use a smaller fuse. A 50 amp fuse is needed for 8 gage wire. The fuse is there to keep the wire insulation from melting, which is what will happen if you run too much power thru the wire. If you don't plan to turn the amp up too high, this may work fine, but I would test it first with a 50 amp fuse before installing. You will need all of the speakers hooked up and the gain set to max to test the power draw. See the following link on wire sizing for more info: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

check your ground wire, it maybe too long, or not the right gauge mine does the same thing

do you have the amp knobs cranked?? gain and freq

i had this same prob. & i run 2 amps as well, cameto find out i had a neg. & positive touching , so check all ur wiring for tht amp..

well you need to check to see if nt no shottage with the amp and also check if the fuse is not to low amp 20,,,, 25 if not put the amp in a separet 12 volt battery

ok well to start are the subs 4ohm dvc or 2 ohm dvcs? heres some questions that will get you started. what kind of car do you have and what is your alternator amperage output right now. the kicker 2500.1 is big enough for 2 L7 15s. i would most deffinetly recomend a large capacitor for this system. with 4 l5s you will need roughly 3000 watts rms. so 2 of those amps, 1 amp per 2 subs will be more than enough. im not familiar with the kicker amp line. if they have anything more like a 2000.1 that would still be plenty power and less exspensive. if you have 4 ohm dvcs then you can wire to 1 ohm. is the 2500.1 1 ohm stable? thats something you need to find out. your deffinetly going to want to run atleast 2 gauge wire. i have 4 L7 15s and i run 0 gauge. if the subs are 2ohm dvc you will have to figure out how you would want to wire those. and when i say a large cpacitor i mean like 10 farad or more. i use a 30 farad power acoustik. alot of people would say this is a crappy cap. true it isnt the best one on the market but im running some serious power in my vehicle and this thing gets the job done for sure. if you havent already done THE BIG 3 is a good idea to upgrade. just look up the big 3 and you will find it easily on google. for 4 l5s you may need a High output alternator. 200 amp would be ideal. i know it sounds like alot but if you dont do everything the right way the first time you will end up doing it the right way at some point. if you dont get effiecent power to your system your not going to be happy with it at all.

just to give you an idea so maybe you can educate yourself alittle more before you get youself into this whole thing. im running 2 hifonics brutus bxi 2608s 2600 watts at 1 ohm rms. each one to 2 s15l7s 4 ohm dvc. a 300 amp alternator 2 batterys all 0 gauge wiring and the 30 farad cap. those subs and amps your talking about can pull serious amperage from your car in excess of 300 at a solid base note. let me know how you make out.... my email is [email protected] if you have any more questions. just trying to help.

I dont know how you blew both subs with a 1000/1. the subs have an rms of about 400w. according to jl,the sweet spot for them is about 500-600watts. are you sure that you had the jumpers wired correctly and the amp at 2ohms?

The 1501 is very similar to the 81000 but there are important differences. The 1501 is a better amp.

If you turn the gain up and down, does the woofer move in and out in direct relation to the rotation of the gain?

What do you mean by "you only feel current going through subs"?

You either are suffering from phase problems with the way you have your subs wired or you fried them and just don't realize it. I sell the TE1501D and these amps are not poorly made, they are however too powerful (1500+ @ 1ohm) for most subs on the market to handle continiously.

Does the amp continue to go into protection if you disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals?