I have a mod.# kudso1flss2 kitchenaid and installed a new heating element which came with a new replacement electronics board. After installing the parts and reinstalling water,drain, etc. The washer would not fill, but would try to activate the washer arm. I reinstalled the old board and it worked fine, for a few days, and then it began operate the same as with the new board. Is there some type of code/sequence that it is looking for?
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909 Answers
Re:
DONT KNOW THIS UNIT BUT TRACE BACK YOUR STEPS. CHECK THE PRESSURE SWITCH FOR AN AIR BUBBLE AS THERE SHOULD BE NO ACTION WITH THE ROTORS UNTILL YOUR WATER LEVEL IS CORRECT.CHECK IF THE SUMP LIMIT ISNT STICKING.
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This could be the relay that controls the heating element, I dont see a separate relay so it may be on the main board. The relay could be stuck closed due to the high current that might have welded the contacts closed. It could also be a sensor issue that is closing that relay. The error code you listed says it is detecting cold water.
Kitchenaid: KUDE03FTSS1. Cleaning light pulses 6 times plus 1 1. Dishes not drying and wash cycle shutting down before finishing the complete wash cycle. Check door switch, ok. Check heating element, Ok at 14 ohms. Got to thinking, the Logic part of the mainboard must be working. It diagnosed itself. Remove K3 relay from W1019358 main electronic board. Took the plastic cover off the little 5-volt relay. Applied 5 Vdc to the coil, it worked. Found pitted contact points on the relay. Erratic continuity on contact points. I purchased 10, JS1-F-5V relays from an online electronic parts store. 10 relays shipped to my door $23.00. A new board could cost from 175.00 to 350.00. I also replaced the K2 Pilot relay. it was the same relay as the Heater K3 relay. The Dishwasher works great. The active parts general go bad. I had a Whirlpool dryer, found the heater element relay went bad on its board, replaced it for $4.50 I guess I got lucky on this dishwasher , too Stay Safe
Hi, The control goes in the door...it is easy to get to. Just take the screws out of the inside panel of the door, they are around the outside edge of the interior of the door. The panel will then lift off and the control will be near the top on the inside. Make sure the power is turned off to the dishwasher and then one by one remove the wires from the old board and place them on the new board. then remove the old board and fasten in the new one. replace the panel and then give it a trial run. Everything should be working just fine but some of the timing will be a bit different.
If you have selected "heat" with the wash cycle, then heat should be activated at the proper time during the cycle. If not, you could have an issue with a defective heat element or thermostat. If the heat element and thermostat are fine, then your problem may be within the electronic control board. Contact an appliance service company.
normally on a kitchenaid dishwasher the diagnostics cycle is activated by pressing heated dry - sani rinse - heated dry - sani rinse - heated dry - sani rinse - heated dry and this will energize the heating element but the only way to check is to see if you are geting voltage out of the board or by checking the resistance of the elment should usaly be around 16 ohm's
You should check the thermal fuse problem listed elsewhere on this site. My power went out on mine, and it was a cheap {less than $20 part} that snaps into the control panel. It eventually blew again a month later, and I replaced the heater element, and the new heater element came with a new board that was very easy to install. the new programming on the board actually speeds up the cycle due to a higher wattage heating element.
But what I didn't do the first time was replace the wires going to the thermal fuse that came with the replacement kit. (Apparently the OEM wires are too thin) Had I done that, I probably never would have tripped the fuse again and not bought the new heater element.
SUGGEST YOU PULL OUT PLUG THEN OPEN DOOR UNSCREW TOP SECTION OF PANEL TO GAIN ACCESS TO DOOR LIMIT. CAREFULLY BRIDGE BOTH WIRES OUT AND ALSO WITH WATER SWITCHED OFF, SWITCH POWER BACK ON. IF NOTHING STILL, CHECK POWER TO DOOR LIMIT. IF THERE IS POWER, EITHER THERE IS A LOOSE WIRING CONNECTION ON THE BOARD OR IT HAS AGAIN GONE FAULTY.
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