Question about KitchenAid 24 in. KUDS02FRSS Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher

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Kitchenaid not cycling

I have a mod.# kudso1flss2 kitchenaid and installed a new heating element which came with a new replacement electronics board. After installing the parts and reinstalling water,drain, etc. The washer would not fill, but would try to activate the washer arm. I reinstalled the old board and it worked fine, for a few days, and then it began operate the same as with the new board. Is there some type of code/sequence that it is looking for?

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Terence Fourie

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DONT KNOW THIS UNIT BUT TRACE BACK YOUR STEPS. CHECK THE PRESSURE SWITCH FOR AN AIR BUBBLE AS THERE SHOULD BE NO ACTION WITH THE ROTORS UNTILL YOUR WATER LEVEL IS CORRECT.CHECK IF THE SUMP LIMIT ISNT STICKING.

Posted on Aug 23, 2007

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1 Answer

Kitchenaid dishwasher #KUD524SEBLO will fill with water but not run wash cycle. suggestions?


Check this possible causes:

Water-heating cycle
heat,wash,rinse you must check the 3 types. one of them can be the problem, most of the time when water reach the level of heating work o.k , you must troubleshooting the heating elements.
Timer
often fail, in some cycle, they stuck, try to clean the contacts, tight the wires very well, or replace.

sincerely. God bless you

May 05, 2012 | KitchenAid Dishwashers

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We just recieved our new kitchenaid heating element for the dishwasher, but it came with an electronic control or circuit board thing, and there is a note that both must be installed. We easily replaced...


Hi,
The control goes in the door...it is easy to get to.
Just take the screws out of the inside panel of the door, they are around the outside edge of the interior of the door. The panel will then lift off and the control will be near the top on the inside.
Make sure the power is turned off to the dishwasher and then one by one remove the wires from the old board and place them on the new board. then remove the old board and fasten in the new one. replace the panel and then give it a trial run.
Everything should be working just fine but some of the timing will be a bit different.

heatman101

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Hi,
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heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " explanation very clear. will give it a go and see how simple it was. thanks Ronnie " - ronnieshomes

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1 Answer

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Hello- 'They' should have re-checked bus block connections for cord. Element won't work with one leg. If connections look good, check element connections and then power connection for element at board. If it still doesn't work, check resistance of element. Should be around 13ohms. This is the troubleshoot sequence for solution to your problem, but should be under warranty for first year. A piece of advice- avoid the 'self-clean' function. This feature is called 'self-destruct' by techs. Please acknowledge this post if helpful. Have more info if needed. Thanks-  Ed

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1 Answer

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You should check the thermal fuse problem listed elsewhere on this site. My power went out on mine, and it was a cheap {less than $20 part} that snaps into the control panel. It eventually blew again a month later, and I replaced the heater element, and the new heater element came with a new board that was very easy to install. the new programming on the board actually speeds up the cycle due to a higher wattage heating element.

But what I didn't do the first time was replace the wires going to the thermal fuse that came with the replacement kit. (Apparently the OEM wires are too thin) Had I done that, I probably never would have tripped the fuse again and not bought the new heater element.

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1 Answer

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SUGGEST YOU PULL OUT PLUG THEN OPEN DOOR UNSCREW TOP SECTION OF PANEL TO GAIN ACCESS TO DOOR LIMIT. CAREFULLY BRIDGE BOTH WIRES OUT AND ALSO WITH WATER SWITCHED OFF, SWITCH POWER BACK ON. IF NOTHING STILL, CHECK POWER TO DOOR LIMIT. IF THERE IS POWER, EITHER THERE IS A LOOSE WIRING CONNECTION ON THE BOARD OR IT HAS AGAIN GONE FAULTY.

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