Perhaps this may be similar to a problem already posted, but it seems slightly different so I thought I'd go ahead and ask anyway.
I last ran my dishwasher about 2 weeks ago, and it operated fine. Cleaned, rinsed, dried, shut off, everything. But the next time I loaded it and pressed a button, nothing would happen. It's almost like it is unplugged. I checked the fuse box and there are no fuses blown. None of the buttons light up and it is completely inoperable. Why would this have happened? Help!
We are also having this problem. We had someone come out several months ago and tell us we needed a new panel. We didn't have the money at the time, so we took the panel off ourselves, cleaned it, put it back on. It worked fine for about 6 months. It has happened again, and this time no luck...i think we will have to replace the panel.
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That's some pretty sketchy information to try to base an answer upon, but having just installed a DW and encountered a similar issue, let me offer this.
While I was doing my install, I encountered difficulties with an uneven floor, semi-rotten floor and subsequently, leveling the front leg adjusters was a challenge. At one point, substantial differences in the adjustments caused the entire body of the DW to become slightly distorted from "square", resulting in the symptoms you describe.
Not sure if you are the same person for whom I've just posted a reply to a very similar problem. Anyway, please, take a look at these tips I posted some time ago. Perhaps they might help you out, somehow.
Anyway, please let me know if I can assist you any further.
I have a similar problem with my Frigidaire side by side. Couldn't move that last recessed hex screw for the life of me but after rechecking its size and seeing that it's the same head as the other hex screws I just pushed really hard on it while unscrewing and it worked. It is a lot longer than the other hex screws holding the assembly, maybe that's why. After doing this exercise I am feeling more confident that I can do this repair and will go ahead and order the replacement damper assembly kit. Good luck with your repair.
It is a HORRIBLE idea for you to dismantle your first stage. It should only be done by a trained technician because of how many small parts there are... now depending on your regulator you might have the ability to turn down the pressure... read the manual to find out if your reg has this adjustment capability.
My little brother gave me his ipod shuffle for the same reason, saying the battery was dying and would only play for half an hour after a full night's charge. However, I went ahead and gave it a shot anyway and it always lasts for several hours (long enough that it's never died, so I don't know an actual time).
Anyway, it turned out to be a usb hardware problem. His old computer wasn't built to charge via usb, so the ipod would take what little it could and flop five songs later. I don't know what kind of hardware you're running, but perhaps you could try plugging it into a different computer and seeing if that chnges things?
I would also recommend looking into wall chargers, if that is the case. Otherwise the convenience factor kinda goes out the window.
It don't sound electrical to me sense you chg. all that, the plugs you put in are they a hotter plug? You don't by chance have a broken valve spring do ya, thats what it sounds like to me. Just sounds to me that its valve spring most likely exhaust valve.
If fuel filter hasn't been done lately I would start there & if you can, have fuel pressure tested while your at it. You may have tired fuel pump but pressure test will confirm. If you recently filled up somewhere different last time you got gas, I'd also try some "Heet" or similar just incase you got a tank full with some water in it.
I had intermittent instrument light problem that went dark for months,
until today. :o) I read somewhere that it could be the dimmer switch
and didn't think that was my problem as the dimmer worked (dimmed the
radio and transmission indicator light) and playing with it never
seemed to help with the problem. I did find it odd that dimmer was not
completely linear, as it would get brighter up to a certain point and
get slightly dimmer with the last little bit of travel.
Today, I took the instrument cluster apart to fix a broken clock,
sticking gas & voltage gauges, and to explore the instrument light
problem. I took apart the dimmer switch, and to my surprise (was
expecting a simple POT), it was a very complicated PCB with some IC's,
resistors, transistors, etc. I thought, "all this just to dim the
light???" Anyway, I found the POT (potentiometer) and gave a few
squirts of WD-40 and found it turning smoother. After putting it back
together, the instrument light came back and the dimmer is now
perfectly linear. Apparently, less than perfect POT causes some sort
of funny logic through the network of IC's and transistors and can
cause the instrument light to go on or off randomly at certain
Anyway, I'm so happy to have the light back along with a working clock
and not having to punch the instrument cluster to see how much fuel I
have. Not really a posting type, but wanted to help someone else out
there with a similar problem with same cause.