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The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time The part number for that igniter is 98005652 it could be purchased from your local appliance parts store or online at; repairclinic.com apdepot.com searspartsdirect.com apwagner.com midwestapplianceparts.com
If its a square glow bar it must pull 3.5 apms to open the gas valve. Round ones pull 2.5 apms. even though the glow bar is on it must be real bright. Has it been taken over 45 second to light the oven. You will need some way to check the amps. If its getting enough amps the safety valve is bad.
this is a milti burner unit / and sounds like the ignitors or weak / look below the oven door edge for a glow if orange there bad they need to be white hot .. burners may come on but not all the time .. ****
With the assumption you have a gas range with electric ignition and is fully powered (plugged in); the possible problem may be the "Electric ignitor/Glow bar".
When turning on the oven, do you see a redish (good) or yellowish (not good; replace) glow emitting from the very bottom or the oven/broil area?
There are typically 2 types of electric glow bar ignitors; Round and Square. Ignitors are actually fairly easy to replace, removing 2 mounting screws and cutting/splicing 2 seperate wires together. Is your ignitor "round" (circular - like size of finger ) or "square" (rectangular - like snickers candy bar)
If your ignitor is not coming on at all; this can be a couple things;
Defective Ignitor - Gone completely Bad - Out (Assuming your have full power 110v to ignitor)
Defective Gas Valve - Assist in passing 110V to Ignitor
Defective Control Board / Thermostat: Assist in passing 110V to Ignitor
FYI - As a safety measure, the ignitor needs to "come on and appear solid red" to properly pass power to gas valve; thus opening and allowing gas to pass through the burners and combust.
The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.
So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.
Check the amperage draw to the igniter, if it is over 3amps and no gas, first off check the valve on the manifold behind then control panel if the valve is open then check the wiring to the thermal valve if it is connected then it would appear that the thermal valve is defective.