The model is a VGSC366-4GSS and about 4 years old.
The termostat and electric control module for the oven was changed last year and the oven temperature is now:
350F when set to 200F
390F when set to 300F
450F when set to 350F
495F when set to 400F
575F when set to 450F
Is there any way to adjust the settings or is other fault at play?
Burners shut on and off at the higher temperature as they should, but it is impossible to produce temperatures less than 350F in the oven.
Please indicate possible solutions.
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Sounds like the wrong module got installed or is defective. Dangerous situation. Call or take it back to whoever installed it. If you did yourself, pull the control module and return it to the shop you bought it from for a new one or make sure you have the correct module by checking the part number on the module itself. Better yet call Viking directly.
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It sounds like the module is momentarily losing power when the bake relay clicks off. Does it do the same thing when you use broil?
Post back with the complete model number and I will try to find the wiring diagram for it and we will walk through checking it.
I will say that is the control board that is not working properly. Have you try to unplugged for phew minutes?, this will reset the current settings. If not, I will star replacing the control board. Good Luck!.
Hello - From what you have described it sounds like the electric range could possibly be experiencing a communication issue with the EOC, wiring harness or faulty element. Try resetting the unit by unplugging it or flipping the breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and turn on oven. If proves to be ineffective, contact a professional to move forward accurately.
The F10 indicates that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit. This can be caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or a failed electronic control board. Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit. You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem. The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug. You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven. Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect. Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms. The resistance chart is shown in the image below.
If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.
You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.
If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code. You would need to access the electronic oven control board (Timer) in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem.
Probably. There is often a key sequence that will enable a calibration mode. We need the full model number to find the tech info, or you can probably find it in the tech sheet which is normally taped on behind the control panel.
1. Bake or Broil element faulty. The oven cycles these on and off to reach and maintain the average setpoint temperature. If the elements heat poperly during the time they are ON, then they are OK (may be able to see them glow).
2. The temperature sensor probe is faulty. This can cause the oven to think it's hotter than it actually is.
3. The above two causes can be easily diagnosed by a technician with an ohm-meter. If they are both OK, then the problem is in the controller itself. If this is the case you may want to have us repair the controller. We see this fault quite often.
Hope this helps you out. Regards, Bruce www.fixyourboard.com