I have a Dremel 395 Type 3. Motor works fine, shaft doesn't turn. Took it apart to find that the white plastic or nylon flex coupling on the shaft had crumbled and the spline driver, which fits directly over the motor end of the shaft was somewhat worn. I emailed Dremel and got an overnight reply listing the 2 parts I need and the cost: Coupling is $1.00 and the driver is $1.25. Placed order by phone: 1-800-437-3635. I ordered 2 of each in case future replacement is needed. Total bill came to $7.27 including Florida tax and shipping. Can't beat that. They said it would be in the mail by tonight. (Flex coupling number is 2615294309; spline driver is 2615294308.)
For me, the problem was one of the stator wires was not making contact with the silver connectors that the switch plugs to. Careful prodding around revealed it was actually broken - I scraped away the varnish from the magnet wire and used a very fine tip soldering iron to reconnect - to make contact, I had to melt away a tiny bit of the plastic that surrounded the connector (all this after first replacing the switch and the brushes).
Same exact problem, however one of my stator wires was actually broken under the female spade lug connector. Soldered me a jumper wire to the connector and she is working like a dream again. I have had mine for over 7 years and this is the 1st problem ever!
Same problem - two wires disconnected
I just repaired mine (30 minutes ago) with the same stator wire problem plus a broken wire on the armature where they get crimped. thats a tough repair but I got it done and it wporks great again.
Yes, I also had the same stator field wire disconnection problem. My vintage 2011, 395 stopped working after about 5-min. of straight grinding ('had about a total of 5 hours of operation with it before that) and after some messing with the brushes initially, I'd noticed that it would try to start to rotate only a couple of times when powered on. So, after checking the brushes (which appeared ok) and the variable speed switch (unsure if ok), with the help of this post, I'd performed a few continuity checks with an Ohmmeter across the various elements, including the switch components, the armature coils (adjacent commutation bars), and finally the (2) stator field poles. If you follow the leads out from these stator field coils you can see which of them are common to each other. In my case, measuring for continuity at the terminals connected to the same coil, I'd discovered intermittent continuity across one of the coils. A closer inspection of the terminals in question revealed that one of the wires had broken off. I pulled out the terminal clip and inserted a short length of copper wire (approx. same gauge) across the plastic slot and reinserted the terminal into the slot making sure that both the wire and terminal were seated properly. I then soldered the new short length of wire from the terminal to the existing wire coming from the stator field winding. This took a bit of patience and care but as a result I was able to get my 395 working again. I'm pleased that I didn't have to send the drill in or buy and replace the brushes, or buy a variable speed switch for $20 that would not have solved the problem. Thanks for the insight to what appears to be a common problem with this model.
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I have a Dremel 395. After a complete disassembly and clean it still didn't work. I traced the problem to the stator wiring - the outside coils. The same problem as Solution #9.
Testing with a multimeter I found that one coil showed it was open circuit. The winding wire was intact however it wasn't making proper contact with the lug the switch unit plugs into.
Ideally I'd prefer to heat the contact and wick a little solder into it to solve the connection problem but I didn't have an iron. The contact lugs are designed to press over the enamelled wire, cutting the enamel, making contact with the wire.
Applying a little pressure to the metal lug restored the connection. I also used a sharp tipped tool to *gently* push the wire from the outside up-into the terminal lug. Be careful. The end of the wire is almost invisible in the v-groove of the plastic housing.
Only attempt this if you can check with a multimeter first and find this is the cause of the problem. This is obviously a design flaw however a relatively easy repair. Checking first saved spending money on a switch.
I just took apart my 395 that wasn't working, and using my multimeter, I found that one of the stator coils had an opening in it. Luckily it was near a terminal, so I may be able to jumper it.
Having the same problem with mine. Mine is a Craftsman model made by Dremel. Pretty sure it is a 395. Just ordered a new switch for $14 (and only $1.50 to ship!) from...
http://www.toolsforless.com/product/1812/Dremel_2615294888_Switch_Assembly
There are also a number of other switches for other models. Search under "Dremel Switch Assembly" on this site...
http://www.toolsforless.com/
Appreciated the other posts. Had come to the conclusion it was the switch. Site confirms my suspicion. Seems to be a common problem.
My Dremel 395 has only 3 or 4 total hours of use for all these years. I had put it into storage when I moved and forgot about it. When I found it recently it would not work. It just would rev up and no motion to the shank. I opened it up and found that the nylon coupling had melted like wax. What a disaster to clean up. I ordered the coupling and replaced it. Then guess what. The switch decided not to work. I am over playing mechanic with this darn thing and will sell it on ebay. I have been out of work for two years now and had high hopes on building my crafts again with this tool.
It stopped working when I was grinding on something small. It was on for only a few minutes and working like a charm, then it stopped cold and would not turn back on. Again with only a few hours of total use on this tool, I feel that I have wasted my money on this model 395. I will look into getting a new model, but if it has problems, you can bet that Dremel will surly hear from me.
I have a model 395 as well. I've had it for several years but it's hardly been used. I'd say the tool has has maybe 1.5 hours of continuous use if that. Over time, I found that the switch would not start the motor spinning until it got to higher and higher settings. Now it has reached a point where the switch only turns on the motor when it is set to full, in other words, the switch is no longer variable.
I've removed the switch, cleaned the contacts and made sure the wires were properly seated, but this has not helped. I've seen other reports here on the 'Net about this defective switch, so as far as I'm concerned, there's something blown in the electronics of the switch.
I e-mailed Dremel a few months ago telling them of the situation and that it was completely unacceptable that their switch should fail before even going through 1 set of brushes. I also brought to their attention the fact that the model 395 switch is the ONLY replacement switch they sell for any of their products, which in my mind means that there is obviously a problem with the part, and they should replace this part for free !! They NEVER replied to my e-mail, so I will NEVER buy a Dremel product again !
Everybody who has experienced this switch problem should e-mail Dremel and tell them the same thing. These tools are fairly expensive and should not be throw away ! Go to the following page and select your country, then click the "contact Us" link and give them a piece of your mind !
http://www.dremel.com/Pages/default.aspx
Meanwhile, I'm still trying to figure out the circuit so I can hopefully identify and replace the damaged component (diode ?). It would be great if someone here who has some electronics experience could circuit check the switch and let us know which part of the circuit is failing...
Oh yes!! The same problem as yours. But I managed to solve it, but after persistance and patient. It was not only the switch. Mainly, it was the switch. Well, I opened the swich. You can open it in all the pieces it consist of. I think it's easy for anyone. I cleaned it. After many tries again and again, I saw that the last problem was at the contacts of the switch. One of the teets had not contact with the base. An other problem was in an other contact. The first piece from the botom of the body of the dremel that has four needles. One of them was not in touch inside the holl with the copper plate. Be patient and you can sacceed. Usually it's not the diode or some element of the switch's circuit. I think problems to my dremel came too early as yours. Anyway Good luck!!
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The 395 has screw caps covering the bruashes and the caps have a slot so you can use a dime to remove them for replacement of the brushes. On many occasions, dirt or other contaminants cause the brushes to lose contact with the armature causing the inoperative condition. The brushes are spring loaded to assure proper contact but any dirt or other items can restrict that contact. Removing the brushes and blowing out the brush cavity can restore the proper contact. Hope this helps!
Spray penetrating oil into the brush holes. that's the only thing that fixed mine.
My dremel tool stopped working and when I have a power tool that stops working I always like to take it apart first to see if it is something simple that I can fix: eg. an off/on switch. I always check this first since the switch gets a lot of use and no electric power means your tool won't work. Well, I took my Dremel apart and it was immediately apparent that the motor was working but the motor shaft was not moving the working shaft that connects to your tools because it was connected with a thick heat shrink tube that had cracked from old age and no longer held each shaft tightly. A co-worker told me that Radio Shack sold heat shrink tubing but what the local store offered was too small in diameter. As luck would have it, I found a larger size available at Home Depot in their electrical department. Since Home Depot's was thinner than the original Dremel tube, I inserted one heat shrink tube inside another heat shrink tube of the same size by folding it and then after cutting it to the correct length, placed it on both shafts and applied heat. That was a year ago and my Dremel is still working just fine. Just thought you might be able to repair yours the same way.
this repair worked for me, and I am thankful. I used 3 layers of shrink tubing, slit the two inner layers so they would overlap slightly to fit snugly. if it doesn\'t hold up, I will try again with some type of reinforcement mesh since the gap between the two pieces is qyite large. so far, it\'s holding.
sliced the two inner layers vertically... not a bad word, really!
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My 395 stopped working the second time i used it. I build PC as a hobby and was only using it to cut out some holes in my new aluminum case. any how, looks like the tool sucked in a ton of the aluminum dust and it clogged up the brushes. Quick clean of the brushes, and a few shots of canned air and it was back up and running like a champ.
You can download the manual at the manufacturer's website. The manual explains how to change the "brushes" which, if worn, can cause intermittant operation. My is acting up, but the brushes look ok. So I'm a bit perplexed. Good luck.
Electrically speaking there are a few items to check.
1) The easiest is to remove the two brush holders screws on each side by the power cord. If one of the screws are loose, or the bushes are worn you will get intermittent or no operation.
2) Second use a volt ohm meter to make sure you have voltage on the two brush connectors inside the brush holders when power is on. If you do then open the unit a check continuity on the motor armature to see if it is open, which will cost $13.37. If you do not have voltage, inspect the power cord and switch.
Some parts can be purchased on the below link.
Or contact a dremel service center from the link below.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/customerservice/ServiceAndRepair/Pages/default.aspx
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Thanks for your help. I bought a Black and Decker tool and will be selling the dead Dremel on eBAY. It was simply quicker and easier than ordering replacement parts and replacing components until the Dremel worked. All my Dremel stuff fits the B&D so I am happy.
My Dremel 395 did the same thing. Worked one day then not the next. I disassembled the tool, found a loose common wire on the switch and reseated it. This did not fix the problem. The unit is getting power but the tool just does not even try to turn the motor.
Have Dremel model 395, Type 5 rotory tool and have used it once. It quite working after about 30 minutes. The tool is like new and was never used peior to this. Checked brushes, all interior connections and all OK. It appears the problem is the tiny circuit board on the switch assembly. Does anyone out there have a diagram of that circuit board? The resistors on the board seem Ok but there is what appears to be a diode but not sure. By the way, after turning the tool off and waiting hour or so and turning back on, the tool will run about 10 seconds and stop.
I have a dremel model 395 Moto-Tool that the motor runs but the shaft will not turn. I took it a part and found that there is a connecting sleeve or flex coupling that split. Looks like it may be made out of a neoprene or a soft plastic. Has anyone know of a replacement part for this? I would also like to replace the splined part on the motor shaft as it has a little damage. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
Maybe people are not understanding my original problem. The tool would not run, period. It wasn't brushes or couplers, for sure. Could have been the switch, but I sold it on eBay and got enough for a nearly free B&D tool that is still running fine. I won't buy any more Dremels. It might be best to start your own thread if you have another problem that does not include "Tool won't turn on."
i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE 285 IT WONT TURN THE NYLON SHAFT IS INSIDE OF IT IS BROKEN ITS NOT ON THE PARTS LIST IN THE BOOK DOES ANYONE KNOW ITS PART NUMBER?
I have 2 Dermel models 595. Both worked last week but today neither one would run today! I cleaned the brushes and both were fine. I plugged them in and fiddled with the switch and then they ran sporatically and poorly. Switch seems to be the problem. Switch is part number 529488870 as best I can tell but I can't find a source on the internet. Same part number as the 395.
my dremel drill all of a sudden went dead in the middle of cutting... its a pretty new tool.. i havent used it that much... what the.......??????? please help
My dremel 300 is plugged in and it won't turn on. It worked perfectly yesterday but now it is not :(
I had the same intermittent operating problem where my 395 would run for a few seconds or so and then quit. What a pain. I tried all the suggested remedies and more - new brushes (hard to find), cleaning, compressed air, cleaning contacts, and adding solder to the black and white main leads so they would stay in tighter - all with little to no improvement. Finally, I noticed that the 4 receiving contacts to the switch housing/assembly were (to varying degrees) loose (bent open). I used a small screwdriver to squeeze these back together as tight as I could. I put the unit all back together and now it seems to run reliably. Glad I finally got some good results. Over time, I presume the contacts got loose from vibration. It is too bad that the little details are the weakness of the Dremel design.
Basically I had the same problem. Running fine and suddenly shuts off and will not restart. I disassemble clean contacts and switch and put back together.
Two days later I pick it up deciding if I should chuck it and I decided to attempt to plug it in but this time I had the switch turned to the low speed position rather than in the off position that it is normally started in. The tool runs just fine and also toggles to high speed without a problem. I repeated this several more times with the same result. Not sure why this worked but my switch will now be taped to the on position and I may even put in a line switch if it continues to work over the long haul rather than the fluke that this may in fact be.
Paul
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