Question about Dremel Variable - Speed Multipro Rotary Tool 395
I have a Dremel 395 Type 3. Motor works fine, shaft doesn't turn. Took it apart to find that the white plastic or nylon flex coupling on the shaft had crumbled and the spline driver, which fits directly over the motor end of the shaft was somewhat worn. I emailed Dremel and got an overnight reply listing the 2 parts I need and the cost: Coupling is $1.00 and the driver is $1.25. Placed order by phone: 1-800-437-3635. I ordered 2 of each in case future replacement is needed. Total bill came to $7.27 including Florida tax and shipping. Can't beat that. They said it would be in the mail by tonight. (Flex coupling number is 2615294309; spline driver is 2615294308.)
Posted on May 27, 2008
For me, the problem was one of the stator wires was not making contact with the silver connectors that the switch plugs to. Careful prodding around revealed it was actually broken - I scraped away the varnish from the magnet wire and used a very fine tip soldering iron to reconnect - to make contact, I had to melt away a tiny bit of the plastic that surrounded the connector (all this after first replacing the switch and the brushes).
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
I have a Dremel 395. After a complete disassembly and clean it still didn't work. I traced the problem to the stator wiring - the outside coils. The same problem as Solution #9.
Testing with a multimeter I found that one coil showed it was open circuit. The winding wire was intact however it wasn't making proper contact with the lug the switch unit plugs into.
Ideally I'd prefer to heat the contact and wick a little solder into it to solve the connection problem but I didn't have an iron. The contact lugs are designed to press over the enamelled wire, cutting the enamel, making contact with the wire.
Applying a little pressure to the metal lug restored the connection. I also used a sharp tipped tool to *gently* push the wire from the outside up-into the terminal lug. Be careful. The end of the wire is almost invisible in the v-groove of the plastic housing.
Only attempt this if you can check with a multimeter first and find this is the cause of the problem. This is obviously a design flaw however a relatively easy repair. Checking first saved spending money on a switch.
Posted on Jul 30, 2010
I just took apart my 395 that wasn't working, and using my multimeter, I found that one of the stator coils had an opening in it. Luckily it was near a terminal, so I may be able to jumper it.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
Having the same problem with mine. Mine is a Craftsman model made by Dremel. Pretty sure it is a 395. Just ordered a new switch for $14 (and only $1.50 to ship!) from...
There are also a number of other switches for other models. Search under "Dremel Switch Assembly" on this site...
Appreciated the other posts. Had come to the conclusion it was the switch. Site confirms my suspicion. Seems to be a common problem.
Posted on Jun 13, 2008
My Dremel 395 has only 3 or 4 total hours of use for all these years. I had put it into storage when I moved and forgot about it. When I found it recently it would not work. It just would rev up and no motion to the shank. I opened it up and found that the nylon coupling had melted like wax. What a disaster to clean up. I ordered the coupling and replaced it. Then guess what. The switch decided not to work. I am over playing mechanic with this darn thing and will sell it on ebay. I have been out of work for two years now and had high hopes on building my crafts again with this tool.
It stopped working when I was grinding on something small. It was on for only a few minutes and working like a charm, then it stopped cold and would not turn back on. Again with only a few hours of total use on this tool, I feel that I have wasted my money on this model 395. I will look into getting a new model, but if it has problems, you can bet that Dremel will surly hear from me.
Posted on May 11, 2010
I have a model 395 as well. I've had it for several years but it's hardly been used. I'd say the tool has has maybe 1.5 hours of continuous use if that. Over time, I found that the switch would not start the motor spinning until it got to higher and higher settings. Now it has reached a point where the switch only turns on the motor when it is set to full, in other words, the switch is no longer variable.
I've removed the switch, cleaned the contacts and made sure the wires were properly seated, but this has not helped. I've seen other reports here on the 'Net about this defective switch, so as far as I'm concerned, there's something blown in the electronics of the switch.
I e-mailed Dremel a few months ago telling them of the situation and that it was completely unacceptable that their switch should fail before even going through 1 set of brushes. I also brought to their attention the fact that the model 395 switch is the ONLY replacement switch they sell for any of their products, which in my mind means that there is obviously a problem with the part, and they should replace this part for free !! They NEVER replied to my e-mail, so I will NEVER buy a Dremel product again !
Everybody who has experienced this switch problem should e-mail Dremel and tell them the same thing. These tools are fairly expensive and should not be throw away ! Go to the following page and select your country, then click the "contact Us" link and give them a piece of your mind !
Meanwhile, I'm still trying to figure out the circuit so I can hopefully identify and replace the damaged component (diode ?). It would be great if someone here who has some electronics experience could circuit check the switch and let us know which part of the circuit is failing...
Posted on May 19, 2008
The 395 has screw caps covering the bruashes and the caps have a slot so you can use a dime to remove them for replacement of the brushes. On many occasions, dirt or other contaminants cause the brushes to lose contact with the armature causing the inoperative condition. The brushes are spring loaded to assure proper contact but any dirt or other items can restrict that contact. Removing the brushes and blowing out the brush cavity can restore the proper contact. Hope this helps!
Posted on Apr 24, 2008
Spray penetrating oil into the brush holes. that's the only thing that fixed mine.
Posted on Mar 02, 2013
My dremel tool stopped working and when I have a power tool that stops working I always like to take it apart first to see if it is something simple that I can fix: eg. an off/on switch. I always check this first since the switch gets a lot of use and no electric power means your tool won't work. Well, I took my Dremel apart and it was immediately apparent that the motor was working but the motor shaft was not moving the working shaft that connects to your tools because it was connected with a thick heat shrink tube that had cracked from old age and no longer held each shaft tightly. A co-worker told me that Radio Shack sold heat shrink tubing but what the local store offered was too small in diameter. As luck would have it, I found a larger size available at Home Depot in their electrical department. Since Home Depot's was thinner than the original Dremel tube, I inserted one heat shrink tube inside another heat shrink tube of the same size by folding it and then after cutting it to the correct length, placed it on both shafts and applied heat. That was a year ago and my Dremel is still working just fine. Just thought you might be able to repair yours the same way.
Posted on Sep 05, 2008
My 395 stopped working the second time i used it. I build PC as a hobby and was only using it to cut out some holes in my new aluminum case. any how, looks like the tool sucked in a ton of the aluminum dust and it clogged up the brushes. Quick clean of the brushes, and a few shots of canned air and it was back up and running like a champ.
Posted on May 23, 2008
You can download the manual at the manufacturer's website. The manual explains how to change the "brushes" which, if worn, can cause intermittant operation. My is acting up, but the brushes look ok. So I'm a bit perplexed. Good luck.
Posted on Aug 20, 2007
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Electrically speaking there are a few items to check.
1) The easiest is to remove the two brush holders screws on each side by the power cord. If one of the screws are loose, or the bushes are worn you will get intermittent or no operation.
2) Second use a volt ohm meter to make sure you have voltage on the two brush connectors inside the brush holders when power is on. If you do then open the unit a check continuity on the motor armature to see if it is open, which will cost $13.37. If you do not have voltage, inspect the power cord and switch.
Some parts can be purchased on the below link.
Or contact a dremel service center from the link below.
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