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I’m seeing 5 red 5 green flash is compressor failure. Not sure if this is your unit or not. Cycle power to outdoor unit 30seconds and resume. Start with a fan only operation no heat/cool. Let unit run, if no issue then begin and heat/cool cycle. If problem occurs then likely narrows issues to outside. Hope this helps!!
These units are designed for precise cooling and humidity control. They are designed to run all the time. Although your cooling temp may be satisfied your compressor still runs maintaining that temp and dehumidifying as well. These inverters drop down to as low as 30% capacity and remain running which in fact is saving you electricity rather than stopping and starting.
With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.
If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.
If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,
Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.
could be a gas leak ( low gas pressure shut off switch, failed start run capacitor for the compressor , vermin problem shorting out the power board outside
The inside unit is just a fan
call an accredited ac technician to get a proper diagnosis and quote
Only offering I have for a consumer is to run a "highpot" test on the cooling unit. This will bypass all the controls from the board and test the function of the cooling unit. Remove the leads from the board for the heating element and connect leads directly to 110 volts. Run for 3 hours to see if cooling is stating in the freezer. If cooling detected let run for 6 hours. So on and so forth. DO NOT RUN FOR MORE THAN 12 HOURS LIKE THIS!!!!!!! If no cooling detected in the first 3 hours the unit is "stopped up" and will have to be replaced.
The unit needs two fans running and good airflow, one fan outside cools the condensor coil and the other inside the unit blowing across the evaporator. The compressor must start up. The defrost timer stops everything and switches on a heating element to defrost the evaporator for several minutes. Please verify these conditions.
Capacitor, dirty condencer coil causing the motor amps to run too high. But most likely worn bearing on blade side of motor causing it to pull to one side causing it to over heat and shut down. Sleve bearings should have no side play.