Schematic My ups gives a continuous sound of relay ON-OFF and dose not gives output.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiaguOEt66DAxVurYkEHXr6C4QQFnoECBsQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fmaker.pro%2Fforums%2Fthreads%2Ffimer-x164-arc-small-welding-machine-yellow-light-failure-yellow-light-turns-on.297568%2F&usg=AOvVaw2jwzGb4J6K4_3Xm5MoEBr0&opi=89978449

If that schematic is right, you could change C34 and C35 to 1000pf, then change R34 to 220k. That would pass more mids down to around 600hz. That part of the circuit is a treble pass, and the top half is a bass pass.

your problem is most likely on the deflection power supply b Board a diode possibly d303 or mcz3001b Smps control IC . it will require some trouble shooting . and you will need a digital multi meter and schematics to trouble shoot the power supply further

model # XS1500??/// always tell full model
what matters is not front words
but USB rear tag model shows. side tag this one
BX1500G?<< bingo right?
the tag coded model shows not only then real model but, version and the country code.!!!

it is not only relays.
but also the relay control logic that can fail
and finding that is never easy. due to....
apc said it needs service.
relay stuck is a better word , not just welded shut.(arc'd)

the relays fail all can. (bypass relay top fail)
as can control to them fail
one relay is dead or stuck closed
or its input logic to cpu chip is failing inside the UPS.
learn to run powerchute app, see logs
see errors,
if relays are bad or their inputs
the card mobo is bad.
APC does not sell cards. spares
nor do that fix them, sent in,
the do have service contracts, buying late is no good.
they have no schematics real, the service manual has good quasi schematics but the manuals are super hard to source.
is is one example of one rare , leaked

https://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/90124/APC_apc%20smart-ups%20rt3000%20rt10000.html

only some are leaked
best is to buy a good used UPS
and use 1 for spare parts.


the powerchute 3.1 for it is here

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/PowerChute-Personal-Edition-v3-1/P-SFPCPE31

the data port uses a special cable to top right rear jack.
the powerchute, works,
this PC came new with cable and CD.
lost that?
then read the logs using powerchute.

Power output amplifier circuit should be checked. If there is any delay relay fitted, its drive circuit too should check. Check all the components at the main power amp output section. Refer its schematic diagram for more details. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" will make surf easy. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

sounds like the gas valve is no good call the 800# off the side of the water heater if there is one they can tell u if it is under warranty for a new one or usally can give u a price and ship u one ups if u have a credit card and it is not covered

So, it sounds like the contacts in the control relay are not passing current -- is this the conclusion you have reached?

Can you trace the hot wire on the coil side of the control relay back to anything -- this should eventually be coming (directly or indirectly) from the ignition switch.

Charlie

Check Horizontal Output Transistor, if found bad / short, replace it.

Without looking at the schematics for this particular model, I'd surmise that the click is indeed a speaker protection relay. Generally this is fed by a number of different sense circuits that watch for power amp issues and/or excess speaker current and/or power supply output stability. Although the relays do indeed fail at times, generally it is not the relay that is at fault. If you have a scope and a schematic, you can check the various circuits that feed the relay for the exact cause. If not, you can do some experiments that might help deduce the problem: e.g. do headphones work when speakers do not, does the relay click on when no speakers are connected (or selected), etc. In my experience, it is most often the output transistor(s) in the power amp. But not always ;-)

Hello, I think that you've got a problem in the relay circutry or a logic problem. tell ya what I ve got the service manual and schematic for the reciever. the engineers at denon where ahead of there time when this company started. they designed the equipment around what they wanted the specs to be for signal to noise and discrete audio channels. each of the sound channels from the component and composite inputs is given its own bus and amplifier channels. these paths are also common to the reciever/tuner outputs. one question though you mentioned that the composite/component video paths are not switching from the input to the output youve designated, and that the monitor checks good. do you have another video source,either digital or analog that you can input throgh another channel to see if it is infact a switching problem. try that and let me know. I can give you help with the switching circutry form the schematic if need be. believe me I know It took me about a week to track down the service schematic for this unit. Denon doesn't like giving out info unless you are an authorized repair center.