The alarm went off indicating the door was open. Door was closed, I turned off alarm at 11pm. The next morning, I opened the fridge and hot air came out even though it was blowing cool air. It turns out the electronic panel at the top was VERY HOT. So hot that the plastic at the top of the fridge below the panel was hot to touch and the seam was even broken. It looks like a short in the panel because every time I reset the alarm, it goes off again. The freezer works fine, but needless to say, the fridge is shut down. It looks like my electronics are fried.The warranty states six years parts and labor for sealed refrigeration system and ice maker and 12 years parts only for sealed refrigeration system. Two years parts and labor for complete unit. My unit is four years old and I have a feeling electronics fall into the two year window. Am I covered? If not,how do I pull the panel and what is the damage in dollars?
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there could be a bad or not totally depressed door switch/es when all doors are closed, assuming the alarm system module (not sure of the name, some manufacturers call it body control module-'BCM') is good. you may try the following:
1. if there is, tighten each lock nut (or mounting nut) of the door switches, to bring out each door switch so that they will be fully depressed when the doors are closed.
2. to find out which switch/es is not being fully depressed when door is closed: while (& all doors closed) door ajar alarm is on, open one door & manually depress the door switch (try to depress several times - might be sticking). if alarm turns off you found the switch, otherwise continue to the next door. but before proceeding to the next door, tape down that first door switch (you may have more than one?) once you found the switch that is not being fully depressed when door is closed, tape down that switch (to keep the alarm turned off). go back to each taped down switch. remove tape & close door, if the alarm turned off when the door was closed (switch is fully depressed=good), then go to next.
3. you can skip 2, just install spacer to doors. spacer can be a thin piece of plastic (or something weatherproof cardboard) to make the door switches to fully be depressed when doors are closed., not too thick that may prevent door from properly latching). tape them first, then use good adhesive if they work.
other possible causes are bad door switch, broken or detached wire, or bad BCM)
(note: the door switch is a push button which looks like a small protruding nail? & mounted at the door opening, which will be depressed by the door upon closing).
Try pressing the lock and unlock buttons on the remote, holding for a few seconds, then trying the unlock and lock buttons to see if the alarm disarms...your description indicates the car alarm is still armed!
use the car key itself from outside the vehicle with everything closed: use key in drivers door outside door lock and manually lock and unlock the door. check if fixed, may have to do a few times. i do believe the vehicle is in theft mode.
The switch which detects whether the door is open may be malfunctioning or the control unit to which the switch is connected is faulty. If there is only one switch it may be the same switch which puts the light on as you open the door.Does the light come on when the door is open? If so the switch if there is only one, is probably ok but the control unit is faulty.Look around the edge of the door frame for switches and check they are not stuck or damaged.
I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.
Lot's of things can make it do it but with the drivers door window open. close and lock all the doors. ( said close the doors as in open them and close them back and make sure they close good ) Once all locked up unlock the drivers door with the key twiced once unlocks the door the second time it unlocks all the doors and the thrid time it'll unlock the hatch too. If it does'nt and the alarm is still going off open the hood and close and lock all the doors again. disconnect the battery, ( the alarm will certainly stop then), With the battery disconnected and all the doors closed and locked, put the key in the ingtion and turn it to run ( nothing will happen as the battery is disconnected ) This next part is important. The batterycables should be clean anyway but if their not they need to be clean for the next operation. With them clean put the positive on first and tighten it down now put the negiative onlike you mean it ( don't let it bounce and connect it. The alarm should'nt be going off as the car has the key on. Reach in and start the car ( I did'nt say open the door). with it running it should'nt be alarming either. Turn the key off and remove it them open the door and get in and restart the car itshould be back to normal.. Most of the time one of the door switches said to the computer that it was opened as it was supposed to be locked or it was opened after it was supposed to be locked and you left.
you have a micro switch at the top of door by the door hinge.must remove top vent cover to access. i've found that if the screws (2 or 3 phillips ) get loose the door is not aligned to open and close the light switch . or maybe the switch itself has failed
This problem normaly happens when the door is not closed properly for a long time and flashing and buzzing starts to give user a indication for same.
Allthough it is not risky as microwave oven has safty door switches wich does not allow oven to operate while door is open.
Take care and close the door properly before you leave kitchen..