Ok i'm having a little problem with this amplifier. it started when a ground wire that travels from the chasis of the amplifier to the PCB came off the PCB and shorted 4 IRFZ46 transistors causing those 4 transistors to smoke. so i have replaced those transistors and have also replaced 5 2200uF 25v Capacitors in this unit as the tops were bulged. now the unit powers up as the power LED lights up. now here's where the fun begins, if i leave the Amplifier in Stereo mode i can't get any sound through the unit and the protection light comes on. now if i bridge the unit and go to Mono the protection light shuts off, but still get no audio through it(exept for a loud hum) and this happens on all 4 channels. if you can think of anything that would help my cause it would be greatly appreciated.
OK thank you for the reply. i am getting 40 volts to my Audio transistors, and all 8 of the audio output transistor are testing good. all of my Power Supply transistors are testing good as well. as far as testing other components i have been through the amplifier twice over testing transistors as well as the ones i have replaced. now wheni go into briged(mono) mode on this unit all i get is a hum and no audio, i know the Amplification circuit is functioning as when i turn up the levels the hum gets amplified. so it's just an issue of not getting theaudio through to the amplification curcuit.OK thank you for the reply. i am getting 40 volts to my Audio transistors, and all 8 of the audio output transistor are testing good. all of my Power Supply transistors are testing good as well. as far as testing other components i have been through the amplifier twice over testing transistors as well as the ones i have replaced. now wheni go into briged(mono) mode on this unit all i get is a hum and no audio, i know the Amplification circuit is functioning as when i turn up the levels the hum gets amplified. so it's just an issue of not getting theaudio through to the amplification curcuit.
and here's an image of the Audio Header(where the Inputs are for the audio) the 8 IC's are all 353d 8 pin ic's. if you need more info just let me know and i'll get you more info on this unit.and here's an image of the Audio Header(where the Inputs are for the audio) the 8 IC's are all 353d 8 pin ic's. if you need more info just let me know and i'll get you more info on this unit.
sorry i'll comment on the first image i uploaded as to the transistors that you can see. on the far left both top and bottom are row's of 4 transisters IRFZ46's next to them top and bottom are F12C20C's then next to them are the D1184 and B863 pairs and there are 4 pairs of them to finish out the Major transistors.sorry i'll comment on the first image i uploaded as to the transistors that you can see. on the far left both top and bottom are row's of 4 transisters IRFZ46's next to them top and bottom are F12C20C's then next to them are the D1184 and B863 pairs and there are 4 pairs of them to finish out the Major transistors.
ok well just to let you know the ground wire wasn't burnt, i think what happened was that someone had tried to repair this unit before, and had not taken the ground wire that runs from the pcb to the top of the Transistors and re soldered it back to the pcb, which in turn when the amp was re-installed that end of the Ground wire came into contact with on of the legs of the IRFZ46 transistors( which they're in rows of 4) and caused a cascade effect on the taking out the entire row of 4.ok well just to let you know the ground wire wasn't burnt, i think what happened was that someone had tried to repair this unit before, and had not taken the ground wire that runs from the pcb to the top of the Transistors and re soldered it back to the pcb, which in turn when the amp was re-installed that end of the Ground wire came into contact with on of the legs of the IRFZ46 transistors( which they're in rows of 4) and caused a cascade effect on the taking out the entire row of 4.
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98 Answers
Re:
I would first check for "rail votage" at the rectifiers...
If all of your audio transistors are not getting around 40 volts then check the transistors you replaced. They should be getting a 5 volt (10 volt square wave is checked with a scope) "drive" signal. If half of your power supply transistors are not getting a drive signal then replace the kia494/tl494/kia594/tl594---whatever it is. thats the ic chip that supplies the "drive" signal to the power supply transistors. Also follow the board closely out of the power supply transistor to the 494 chip.. there should be some small driver transistors in between.. make sure they are not shorted or fried as well... let me knoe if you need more help
Oh... also ohm between pins#2 and #3 of each audio outpuit transistor... if any check shorted that series of transistors has to be replaced....Oh... also ohm between pins#2 and #3 of each audio outpuit transistor... if any check shorted that series of transistors has to be replaced....
oh man.. i wonder if these people let a power wire touch the rcas or arced a screwdriver from the power terminal block to the amps casing or something.. finding a problem in the pre-amp section is damn near impossible unless you haver another working amp just like it to compare to..
I would make sure that the small capacitors that go form the circuit board to the case ground screws are not blown(common if what i suspect happen is true) that might also explain your burnt ground wire...
Unfortunately I have not had too much personal experience with this amp so thats about all i can tell ya...oh man.. i wonder if these people let a power wire touch the rcas or arced a screwdriver from the power terminal block to the amps casing or something.. finding a problem in the pre-amp section is damn near impossible unless you haver another working amp just like it to compare to..
I would make sure that the small capacitors that go form the circuit board to the case ground screws are not blown(common if what i suspect happen is true) that might also explain your burnt ground wire...
Unfortunately I have not had too much personal experience with this amp so thats about all i can tell ya...
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Hello
If your Dual Car Amp refuese to switch ON check the following.
+12V wire is not connected or incorrect voltage.
REM wire is not connected or incorrect voltage.
Ground wire is not connected.
Fuse(s) are blown.
If the fuse blows repeatedly, check whether the +ve voltage wire touche the chasis of the vehicle. If it is OK, the fault is with the univt itself. That is, the output of the unit has a short. Check for any output IC failure. OK.
Hi,
In car audio always make sure that you are feeding your amplifier with the voltage that it requires, usually 12v to 14v (some amplifiers can do 12v to 18v). If you have a voltmeter, check your voltage reading if its reading 12v above, if it reads 11.9v below & just stays there & keeps on going down then your problem is with your voltage.
The possible causes of the protect light to turn on in a amplifier is:
1. low voltage - the amplifier is not running on its required voltage / is not getting enough voltage
2. thermal protect - too much heat, usually this occurs when an amplifier is in a tight space & the voltage keeps going down this will cause heat.
3. shortage - wire's are touching each other
4. poor ground - always make sure you ground your amplifier to your vehicles chasis
Hope this helps your concern. Have a blessed weekend.
is the remote power good? also, make sure you have good ground(grind the connection clean if connected to chasis). If that don't work and the fuses on the amp are good, then the amp is blown.
Check your ground and power wire connections. It will most likely be a bad ground, if grounded in the trunk, get a longer wire of equal or greater thickness and ground to either chassis or battery. Also if you have the amp at full gain try dropping it a little back if getting a better ground doesnt help
It's drawing too much current. make sure you have a nice solid ground to your car chasis( i use seat bolt or something like that) and that your wire is the right gauge. If it's still popping your fuse make sure you are wiring the subs as specified by the manufacturer.
could be power, could be ground, do you have a factory amplifier aswell as an aftermarket one in your vehicle.. If so if you have the 3 remote wires spliced together to kick on your factory amp you can have problems with this. Basically having more than 1 amp wired in series together can do this... there are many factors to this but first check your ground on the headunit and make sure it's makin a good chasis ground..
Check your amps ground and make sure it has a clean connection to the chasis. If there is paint or any kind of coating where you are trying to ground, use a steel brush to expose the bare metal. Also, make sure you are grounding the amp directly to the chasis and not to another grounded wire.
either your amp is blown which it very well could be. or your just hooking something up wrong in the wiring. make sure ur battery wire and small blue amp wire are secure with a good ground
are you shure you not connect the amplifier in a wrong connection ...B+,GND,ACC.....ok...then checkif the speakers wires stay in good condicions, some times when we intalled the spk wires for the border of the doors a few times skrewered too.check if it hapen.
another ....check if the terminal spk is not going at ground whit the chasis
another to....4 ohms per channel ,anny voice coil spk burned...in short.
good look.
OK thank you for the reply. i am getting 40 volts to my Audio transistors, and all 8 of the audio output transistor are testing good. all of my Power Supply transistors are testing good as well. as far as testing other components i have been through the amplifier twice over testing transistors as well as the ones i have replaced. now wheni go into briged(mono) mode on this unit all i get is a hum and no audio, i know the Amplification circuit is functioning as when i turn up the levels the hum gets amplified. so it's just an issue of not getting theaudio through to the amplification curcuit.
ok i can attach an image to the posts here so here's an image of the unit.
and here's an image of the Audio Header(where the Inputs are for the audio) the 8 IC's are all 353d 8 pin ic's. if you need more info just let me know and i'll get you more info on this unit.
sorry i'll comment on the first image i uploaded as to the transistors that you can see. on the far left both top and bottom are row's of 4 transisters IRFZ46's next to them top and bottom are F12C20C's then next to them are the D1184 and B863 pairs and there are 4 pairs of them to finish out the Major transistors.
ok well just to let you know the ground wire wasn't burnt, i think what happened was that someone had tried to repair this unit before, and had not taken the ground wire that runs from the pcb to the top of the Transistors and re soldered it back to the pcb, which in turn when the amp was re-installed that end of the Ground wire came into contact with on of the legs of the IRFZ46 transistors( which they're in rows of 4) and caused a cascade effect on the taking out the entire row of 4.
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