Drain Problem My washing machine will not drain. I followed the instructions included in the owners manual. Doubled checked the drain hose and all seems fine. Is there another place to look if the drain is clogged?

Your user's manual should tell you how to clean the drain line for your washer. Also, check your drain hose to make sure it is not kinked. If you are mechanically inclined, you can unplug your washing machine and then remove the back cover. You will see your drain hose and follow it to the drain pump. More than likely your drain pump is plugged or somewhere between there through the drain hose. Draining of a washing machine is a timed event. So if it does not drain, there is a clog somewhere in your washing machine. This video gives you a basic idea of how to do your pump:
But do this one first to check your discharge hose for clogs:

it needs to drain first,before spinning. If the drain hose and/or pump is clogged with lint, etc. it will not drain. this may be an easy fix; check the drain hoses and the pump casing for blockage. you'll probably need to turn the machine on its side to do that.

Hi.

According to the description, the parts that may be responsible are pressure switch, drain system, control panel.

Testing will start from the drain system. The drain hose at the back must be checked making sure that there is no blockage and that hose height is set according to manual. If hose is set incorrectly water may flow back from the drain hose into the tub. The consequence is the drain part of the cycle not ending because of siphoning. The drain filter connected to the pump must also be checked. Drain blockage would not explain water filling the tub while machine is supposed to drain, but the filter must be checked in any case because it may be part of the problem. If the machine is front load the drain filter access is usually in front at the bottom, if the machine is a top loader, depending on the model the pump is accessed from underneath or from the back of the machine.

After checking the drain system inspect the pressure switch. The pressure switch is the device that detects the water level. Most washers have the switch located in the control assembly, near to the timer. To access the switch the machine must be partially disassembled. The pressure switch looks like a plastic disk with three or four electrical connectors. The switch is also connected to a long thin rubber hose that extends inside the tub. Before replacing the switch try cleaning the rubber hose and the switch nozzle. Excess of detergent may clog the switch, causing malfunction that often affect the drain and spin part of the cycle. The switch is not an expensive part and it is difficult to test. The switch is tested reading Ohms ( or Volts) at its terminals with tub full and empty. Testing must be done by a trained technician. If cleaning the rubber hose does not do the job I suggest replacing the switch.

If the drain system and pressure switch are fine the next step usually consists in replacing the control module. Before replacement the module should be test reading volts during cycle, checking test points in service manual or at least performing a diagnostic cycle. Instructions on how to run a diagnostic cycle are detailed in the tech sheet. Unless previously removed the tech sheet is usually tucked inside the washer, often inside the control assembly (Maytag, Whirlpool and more).

If the machine is installed in a vehicle, then it is a built in model. To be serviced the appliance must be moved out from its housing. The options for the user are either DIY or calling the number listed on the owners manual to get professional support. Depending on the model the instruction to mount or remove machine from housing are illustrated either in the owners manual or in the installation manual provided with the owners manual.

Regards.

Ginko

First we need to know what diameter said Grey Hose is? I assume you are speaking of a Washing Machine?? If so, typically they are equipped with 3 hoses as follows: One for Hot Water Supply and a Matching hose for Cold Water Supply. Both of these hoses are equipped with 3/4 Inch Female Housse Thread connectors identical to a Garden Hose. So that delegates the Third Hose to DRAIN. It is LARGER and usually is attached inside the Washing Machine to the Water Pump and passes through the rear cover and ultimately must be formed into a "U" bend and inserted into the Drain. It is necessary to secure this hose to the Drain and Supply device so that it cannot blow out of the Drain while the Washing Machine is Pumping Out. All Washing Machines come with User Manuals and Installation Instruction Sheets. Like Automobile Owners Manuals, they should be read cover to cover and stored for future reference. You can find most Washer and Dryer Manuals online. Use Google Search to find them.

is the drain hose connected to a drain standpipe or laying in a utility tub , or a floor drain check owners manual for proper drain hose height and requirements if drain hose is lower than the height of washer it can auto siphon out of drain hose ,,,,, is the drain hose sitting in stand pipe freely or is it connected to stand pipe with no air gap

The IE fault code indicates that your washer is not filling properly with water This error code is displayed if the washer is not fully drained within 10 minutes. I will give you troubleshooting tips for both the fill problem and the drain problem.

To troubleshoot a drain problem, follow these steps:

• Follow the steps on page 17 of your owner's manual to clean the drain pump filter. If you do not have your owner's manual, you can access it on our Manage My Home website.
• Check your drain hose for kinks or clogs.
• Make sure that the drain hose is properly installed according to the installation instructions for your washer.

Here are some troubleshooting steps for the filling problem:

• Make sure that the water valves behind your washer are fully open.
• Check the filter screens on the inlet valves where your fill hoses connect to the back of the washer. If debris is clogging the screens, remove the screens and thoroughly clean them. Flush the inlet openings thoroughly with water to prevent debris from entering the washer and corrupting the inlet water valves.
• A drain installation problem can cause siphoning of washer fill water. Make sure that the drain hose is properly installed per the installation guidelines for your washer.

F is part of a system fault code. There should be additional characters (numbers) in addition to the F.

Here's what I get from a Cabrio Owner's Manual if there are numbers after the F:

F## code (F-type error code) appears in display

System error code. Press START/PAUSE once to clear the code. Then press START/PAUSE again to restart washer. If code appears again, call for service.

I called Whirlpool at 1-800-442-1111, and according to customer support the manufacturer intentionally no longer provides descriptions for F codes (though there are still a few owners manuals that will describe something like F21 = Long Drain). Check to see if your owner's manual provides any F code help in the troubleshooting section.

Generally, what I was told is that F codes indicate customers need help from a technician. Not always completely true, and really not very helpful--especially if you want to attempt to avoid scheduling service.

Since there are numerous F## codes, please provide the specific code number if you desire further assistance.
----
Here are letter codes Whirlpool provided in the owners manual (copying from a PDF works poorly):

-

oL (overloaded)

appears in display

Load too large. If an overload is detected, the washer will drain any water and

detergent in the washer. Remove several items and add HE
detergent. Close lid and press START/PAUSE.
-

uL (unbalanced load)

appears in display

Load not balanced. The washer is

running a load-balance correction

routine.

Allow the machine to continue. If the dial is flashing and the

machine has stopped, redistribute the load, close the lid, and
press START/PAUSE.
-

LF (too long to fill)

appears in display

Washer taking too long to fill.

Drain extends more than

4.5" (114 mm) into standpipe.

Check plumbing for correct drain hose installation. Use drain

hose form and attach securely to drainpipe or tub. Do not tape
over drain opening. See "Installation Instructions".
-

Ld (too long to drain

water ) appears in

display

Washer taking too long to drain

water. Drain extends more than

4.5" (114 mm) into standpipe.

Check plumbing for correct drain hose installation. Use drain

hose form and attach securely to drainpipe or tub. Do not tape

over drain opening.

Lower drain hose if the end is higher than 96" (2.4 m) above

the floor. Remove any clogs from drain hose. See "Installation
Instructions".
-
etc...etc...

"F02" is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump


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First check the drain hose is not blocked.

If you do not find anything in there, then you need to access the drain pump, opening the panel at the bottom on machine front, undo the hose from the pump and clean the hose. You find detailed instructions on machine owners manual.

If it leaks during drain or spin cycle, it means that your exit hose has come loose or has a break. This can be replaced easily.............