I have a unit described above, that has no power at all. The fuse is OK. There are a few dark spots on the board, but no completely burnt or obvious resistors or circuits. I have not ohmed the board or checked everything out. Any obvious problems that I should check out.
Had the same exact issue. RCA DRC257N was acting funny, frequently freezing up at HELLO screen, sometimes buttons would stop working during playback, requiring frequent unplugging to get back to working. Opened the case, pulled out the power board and noticed that capacitor C411 (1000uF 16V) was bulging out at top and bottom. Replaced with a $1.59 1000uF 35V capacitor from Radio Shack and all is back to good working order. Thanks.
Before reading anything about the RCA DRC257N HDMI DVD player online, I decided to open the DVD player and inspect the power supply board after the unit failed. I found that the 16v 1000uF capacitor can had a bulging top, and then with closer inspection I saw that the bottom was pushed out. I was worried that the capacitor being damaged may have also effected more components on the board. I decided to attempt a repair, without the use of a multimeter. I looked around through my computer parts junkyard hoping that some board may have a 16v 1000uF capacitor. I opened up a computer power supply, and out of the dozen or so capacitors one of them was a match. I de-soldered the bad cap, and soldered in the new. The DVD player works perfectly now.
The terse, unexplained, and therefore useless, answer of "1000uF 16v cap." apparently is in reference to C411 on the power supply board, which is a large Electrolytic capacitor that is the final filter stage on the DC power going out the the main system board. If this capacitor is not functioning properly, there could be ripple in what should be a pure DC voltage feeding the logic and video circuits of the system. ANY fluctuations in this DC voltage can cause erratic behaviour throughout the system. Symptoms such as weird displays, functions not working properly, intereference in the video, and total failure can be attributed to "dirty" DC voltages to the main board. This is true regarding ALL of the big "black can" capacitors on the power supply board. A user's ability to replace ANY circuit components would be limited to their competency with a solidering iorn, removal, repair and replacement of circuit boards, and would be done STRICTLY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
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Could be a faulty power supply in the actual unit. Check inside it for a fuse on the circuit board while its unplugged could be blown. Usually power into unit is higher AC voltage (DEATH) and a transformer lowers the voltage so if you take it to a technician they should be able to measure the lower dc voltages to see if the power supply is working ok and if any fuses are blown.
It may be the power supply fuse. The fuse is a "2amp Type T or slo-blo 250v" if you live in north america. If your electrical current is 230v like in europe the fuse you need is "1.25amp Type T or sloblo 250v". You will need to unplug the unit from the wall outlet, unplug all cables, and set the unit on a padded surface. Remove the 10 screws holding the amplifier to the sub box and remove the amp assembly from the box. At the bottom of the circuit board is a glass fuse, gently remove that fuse and inspect it for obvious signs, like dark burn spots. If you can, check it for continuity, or just replace it. Also before going through this check the outlet that the sub is plugged into for power.
The fuse for the convergance power supply most likly is not your problem, go to the board below it, the deflection board and neer the flyback you will find three small fuses the one in the center is the most common problem with convergance and this also can be cused by the pins for the flyback comming unsoldered
OK., I know this set very well. It almost never has a convergence problem.
With the set unplugged, remove the back cover--there is a small circuit board mounted ABOVE the main boards--it is about 10 inches wide and 4 inches tall---On the far right side of it are several DIODES---two are much larger then the rest--what usually happens is one of the large diodes is shorted--5 dollar part---the board only has a few plugs and 4 screws that hold it in---easy to remove--check all the diodes(the two large ones first)
If either of the large diodes read like a fuse you FOUND YOUR TROUBLE.
LET me know if you need ANY help or Advice--I am here to help people---I have seen several sets identical to yours with the problem you describe.
You probably have a bad main control or console control unit in there. Turn power off to the machine, be sure that BOTH of your door switches are ok. Unplug your membrane to control panel ribbon cable, then put everything back in place. Leave the door open, then turn power back on to machine. (also, be sure the thermal fuse hasnt tripped while your in the console). After re-appling power, close the door, and wait a few, if the console unit is bad, the machine will go into drain mode (you will here the unit start in drain). If no drain mode, then your control is shorted. You dont have to see any burn marks, etc for one to be bad, in fact, 98% of the boards we replace, dont show any signs of problems. Let me know what you find out.
I had this problem after only a few months of use! There were some bad capacitors on the power supply board. Replacing them fixed the player. They used cheap electrolytic capacitors on this unit; check them all while you have it open.
no reset button ,sorry. The problem you describe is pretty common with this model as its a fault in the horizontal drive circuit or in the main power supply and without the proper service manual as well as the prober tools and equipment this set its not gonna get fixed. there are no panels or user changable boards as it is a solid state set. ptscorp.com could repair this board or exchange it with a referbished board but it would still requir some adjustment that a user may not be able to handle. time to call the pro.. Sorry couldnet help ya more.. Good Luck.