I have a unit described above, that has no power at all. The fuse is OK. There are a few dark spots on the board, but no completely burnt or obvious resistors or circuits. I have not ohmed the board or checked everything out. Any obvious problems that I should check out.
Had the same exact issue. RCA DRC257N was acting funny, frequently freezing up at HELLO screen, sometimes buttons would stop working during playback, requiring frequent unplugging to get back to working. Opened the case, pulled out the power board and noticed that capacitor C411 (1000uF 16V) was bulging out at top and bottom. Replaced with a $1.59 1000uF 35V capacitor from Radio Shack and all is back to good working order. Thanks.
Before reading anything about the RCA DRC257N HDMI DVD player online, I decided to open the DVD player and inspect the power supply board after the unit failed. I found that the 16v 1000uF capacitor can had a bulging top, and then with closer inspection I saw that the bottom was pushed out. I was worried that the capacitor being damaged may have also effected more components on the board. I decided to attempt a repair, without the use of a multimeter. I looked around through my computer parts junkyard hoping that some board may have a 16v 1000uF capacitor. I opened up a computer power supply, and out of the dozen or so capacitors one of them was a match. I de-soldered the bad cap, and soldered in the new. The DVD player works perfectly now.
The terse, unexplained, and therefore useless, answer of "1000uF 16v cap." apparently is in reference to C411 on the power supply board, which is a large Electrolytic capacitor that is the final filter stage on the DC power going out the the main system board. If this capacitor is not functioning properly, there could be ripple in what should be a pure DC voltage feeding the logic and video circuits of the system. ANY fluctuations in this DC voltage can cause erratic behaviour throughout the system. Symptoms such as weird displays, functions not working properly, intereference in the video, and total failure can be attributed to "dirty" DC voltages to the main board. This is true regarding ALL of the big "black can" capacitors on the power supply board. A user's ability to replace ANY circuit components would be limited to their competency with a solidering iorn, removal, repair and replacement of circuit boards, and would be done STRICTLY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
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Have you lookd in box for fuses or switches
also burnt wires or loose wires? Inside
this box is there a circuit board? If so look on the
board for burnt spots or melted spots if any
of this is there you will have to replace board
let me know what you got, I would like to say
you could make a jumper but I don't think
iy would work do to voltage regulation. Also tell me
how many wires you have at ignition
It sounds like you're looking in the right place. Check your power panel for a tripped circuit breaker (maybe more than one) or if the home is older, it may have fuses. It's possible that the outdoor disconnect also has fuses but that's not as likely. You can check around the outdoor unit and see if you smell anything burnt.
You can aso turn off the unit at the thermostat, wait a few minutes and see if the unit starts back up, but check the items listed above first.
It may be the power supply fuse. The fuse is a "2amp Type T or slo-blo 250v" if you live in north america. If your electrical current is 230v like in europe the fuse you need is "1.25amp Type T or sloblo 250v". You will need to unplug the unit from the wall outlet, unplug all cables, and set the unit on a padded surface. Remove the 10 screws holding the amplifier to the sub box and remove the amp assembly from the box. At the bottom of the circuit board is a glass fuse, gently remove that fuse and inspect it for obvious signs, like dark burn spots. If you can, check it for continuity, or just replace it. Also before going through this check the outlet that the sub is plugged into for power.
Based on the symptoms you are describing it seems like your T-Con board is going bad. This board is located on top of the panel and its main function is to make the pixels properly display on the screen. When this board goes out you can experience a few things and normally red or blue spots in the dark areas is one of them.
I checked my Camry's manual which described how to open the cover over the board. The diagram on the inside of the fuse board cover identified the location of the cigarette lighter fuse. I replaced it with the spare 15amp fuse found in the other fuse box next to the engine block, also described in the manual. However, this did not correct the problem. On a hunch, I pulled the fuse labeled "power point" and saw the burnt filament in the fuse and replaced it with the 15amp fuse. This corrected the problem.
Perhaps it is just a fuse blown. There is one small fuse inside the unit. If the fuse is OK, then the next step might the transformer. If the transformer is OK, then it might be the Bridge rectifier IC GBU series
You probably have a bad main control or console control unit in there. Turn power off to the machine, be sure that BOTH of your door switches are ok. Unplug your membrane to control panel ribbon cable, then put everything back in place. Leave the door open, then turn power back on to machine. (also, be sure the thermal fuse hasnt tripped while your in the console). After re-appling power, close the door, and wait a few, if the console unit is bad, the machine will go into drain mode (you will here the unit start in drain). If no drain mode, then your control is shorted. You dont have to see any burn marks, etc for one to be bad, in fact, 98% of the boards we replace, dont show any signs of problems. Let me know what you find out.
Blank screen sounds like a fried thermosat. Abrupt outages can affect certain types of thermostats. Make a jumper wire and jump across R and G. See if you get any action from anywhere. If a fan or compressor kicks in you know you have a burned out thermosat...