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Hi, I've a fagor feb20e Eco plus combi boiler in

Posted by Chris on

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Brad Brown

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  • Water Heaters Master
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There is a flow sensor in the circuit and it is not sensing the lower flow from just the hot water. When you put it on heat though it does.

Posted on Jun 04, 2013

  • Chris Jun 05, 2013

    Thankyou , thing with the flow sensor is I un plugged it last night and nothing worked then plugged it in and it fired but shut down straight away, indicating the flow sensor works ?? Thinking it's a basic part it would either work the flow or not work at all? Little confusing at this time!

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gary1121

gary miller

  • 332 Answers

SOURCE: a trickle of hot water from taps, central heating ok

it sounds like your shut off valve might be bad even though it turns on and off by turing it doesn't mean that the washer is not stuck to the seat and not opening, try replacing the valve

Posted on May 29, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 334 Answers

SOURCE: Protherm 100EC boiler not firing up

You likely have a flame sensor problem.

If you can wath the ignition proccess, see if you ever notice a flame. If yes, and it then shuts downm, you have a flame sensor failure, replace the sensor and clean the flame burners and orifices.

If no flame at all, then your ignitor is failing, or you are not gatting gas to the ignitor.

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: combi cutting out and overheating

is this a baxi 105? chances are you diaphragm has gone on your diverter valve. Or your diverter valve.
Do you will initially get a liitle hot water if your heating is on?

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Combi Boiler - Running warm & then cold!? HELP!

the problem was solved on my system by replacing thermostatic valve on shower and putting non return valves on hot and cold feed to shower . the problem was caused by cold water getting into the hot water line through the shower hope this helps

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

Earnest Bowes

  • 234 Answers

SOURCE: non i;n working boiler

Did you put automatic vent plugs on this boiler?This help stop from having air locks.I would try bleeding the high pipe to see if any air come out.The other thing I would check is the valve that out for the pump to pump water around.

Posted on Mar 17, 2009

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I have a vaillant eco pro 28 combi boiler. no constant hot water unless tap is on really low.


Oh some of these there was a small black heatexchanger just for hot water they some times block up . or it could be a blockage in the water section where it flows in .I know Valliant have a very good tech line and fitters who do house calls .

Mar 02, 2017 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I've got a Alpha 240 e combi boiler..... Everything seems to be wor,kin ok but it won't start the ignition sequence .


could be air presure switch which tells pcb that fan is working and would then bring inn ignition system then main gas valve.Would suggest getting gas engineer in.pommie engineer

May 26, 2012 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I have constant 24/7 humming noise (combi boiler i think) the boiler itself is not humming but seems to be in the pipes? mainly kitchen & upstairs, there is "hot spot" for the noise as you go...


If you turn the power off and it's still there then it's not anything electrical in the flat.. it could be transferred noise from another source. I would try locating the sound by listening through a tube to locate the sound more accurately. This method of sound source location is used by old fashioned mechanics listening for engine noises and is very good at finding them..
good luck !

Mar 30, 2017 | Water Heaters

2 Answers

Problem with hot water from Vokera Excell 80sp boiler


Hi - hope someone can help. I have a VOKERA EXCEL 80SP combi boiler and been without hot water/central heating for two days. The pilot light is on, the fan is on, but boiler not triggering once the hot water tap is turned on.
Hopefully someone come to look at it today but hoping for some advice. Anyone else had this problem?
Thank you.

Dec 21, 2009 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Combi Boiler gives CH but not HW


Combi boilers have many moving parts compared to conventional models so must be serviced annually to prevent breakdowns.

Your boiler most likely has one of four problems:-

1. When the receiver for the wireless thermostat was fitted, other wiring was loosened and has come adrift. It's a possibility, but in my experience unlikely as the wiring involved isn't anything to do with HW supply..

2. During receiver fitting the pcb suffered a static electricity surge. Possible, but unlikely as this sort of damage is usually immediately evident. However, boiler pcb's are notorious for sudden failures anyway and can happen anytime. Combi pcb's are more prone to fail as they usually have up to four solenoids fitted and these do eventually fail due to mechanical wear.

3. When you your combi is in CH mode it heats the primary water circuit and directs the flow through the CH heat exchanger. When you open a hot tap (US=faucet) you're opening a supply of cold water initially as there is no stored hot water like in a conventional system. As the water starts to flow through the combi's diverter valve there's a pressure drop which activates a rubber diaphragm with mechanical connections to other parts. The diaphragm is one part which is routinely replaced annually as it will eventually fatigue and fail with the symptoms which you describe. In addition, the mechanical parts connected to the diaphragm pass through various seals in order to activate at least one micro switch. If the seals fail then the moving parts eventually corrode and seize up. Regular servicing prevents this. Combi seizures are a very common complaint in hard water areas.

4. One of the micro switches activated by the diverter valve has failed. Possible, but not likely. The purpose of the switches is usually to fire up the boiler to provide HW when the CH is not currently running, but as you haven't said which Vaillant you have I can't be definitive on this.

One major problem with combi boilers is that multiple failures can and certainly do occur almost at once. Unmaintained units may appear to be correctly functioning but in reality a number of worn parts can be close to failing. When one part fails, the others can't cope with the stress and fail as well.

In most civilised countries including the UK it's a criminal offence to attempt most repairs yourself unless you're qualified to work on gas appliances, so you need to find a decent heating engineer to service your boiler (ask your new neighbours). In the UK you can expect to pay around £120-£150 annually for a routine boiler service. If the circuit board has failed then it can easily add over £100. If parts inside the diverter valve/manifold have seized then you can be looking at an additional £80-£150. Note that diaphragm failures on their own do not merit diverter/manifold replacement and that if you have a new diverter fitted then a new diaphragm will already be present inside.

Dishonest heating engineers always diagnose a failed pcb as they know that you have no way of knowing whether it's true. If you can live with the problem for a few days then failed pcb's are usually a straightforward repair and there are plenty of companies who will send you a guaranteed exchange unit for much less than the cost of a new one. As long as you are not opening the main boiler casing which houses the combustion chamber and gas valve assemblies then some territories allow non gas qualified replacement, but others insist that the work is done by a qualified electrician: this is not the case in the UK as long as the pcb is not connected directly to mains electricity (no modern domestic ones are).

Oct 13, 2009 | Water Heaters

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