Blue illumination doesnt work

What size box does this sub need in a sealed box & a ported box. If you have room use a ported box that fits your subs. Probox & other brands may have the perfect box for them. I would tune the box to 40hz if you like loud tight bass.

The fuse panel is located underneath the dash, to the left of the steering column, next to the emergency brake pedal. You need to remove the under-dash insulation to access some parts of the fuse panel.


If it doesn't have a diagram inside the box, here's one I found online: http://www.coolcats.net/tech/reference/images/fusepanel.jpg


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Get a 1200 watt 4 channel amp that's 2 ohm stable. Bridge 2 channels into the single 550W rms audiobahn. Use the other channels for each side of the dual box. Turn the LPF or Low Pass Filter on and vibrate down the road.

Maybe the wires are disconnected inside the box. Remove the sub from the box and check the wiring.

I dont know if this will help you but start at the deck and make sure that the outputs(RCA) arent crossed over to highpass and do the same at the amp make sure that its set for lowpass- set half gain -bass boost half gain- subsonic minimum - If that doesnt help try using an i pod with an adaptor that you can play it right into the amp this is to see if you are getting signal from the deck to the amp if it doesnt work with an i pod or mp3 plugged directly into it then you may have got you a blown amp going on- good luck with that

I would try walling it up unless you are going to buy 2 brand new subs. the problem is the older power subs had such small magnets so they needed alot less air space inside the box. Unless you can find the EXACT subs this box was made for I would recommend chopping it and doing a single sub. if you try a replacement sub go with the 12" P1 series they are a close match for the power 12's of the past.

According to MTX they need 1.25 cubic ft per sub sealed and 2 cubic feet vented. Most pre-fab boxes will work for those subs.

2 subs and 1 amp

In all reality, that amp is probably a bit small for those two subs. To maximize the power from the amp to the subs, make sure:

• The dual voice coils of each sub are in parallel (+'s together, -'s together). This makes each sub 2 ohms.
  
• Connect the subs in series (+ to -). This makes the combination of subs together 4 ohms.
  
• Bridge the 2 channels of the amp to the subs in series (see above).

This will put somewhere between 150-200W to each sub.

Keep in mind, though, that depending on the music type and location in the vehicle, the type and size of the sub box is going to make almost as much difference as how much power is on the subs. Sealed boxes are usually small and have a nice flat response, but tend to need more power to sound louder. Ported and bandpass boxes are larger and aren't as flat of a response, but have nice loud peak at a certain frequency.

Let me know if you need any more help!

Should've asked more.. LOL.

Depends on a couple things.. I'll try to guide you as much as possible and if you have any question just let me know.

If you are running these subs on a ported enclosure or band pass, do you know the tuning frequency of the box? If it is sealed, I would assume it is 35 Hz + -5.

Also, can you select the frequency for the subs from the Head unit? If so, bring your HU's xover at 50-6- Hz. On the amp itself, turn the gain at 3/4 and you could either get the amp's xover at 50hz or below (that'll depend on your taste). the wiring of the woofer should be in parallel so that you can drop the impedance to 2 Ohms.

The band reject filter is for letting through "other" frequencies than the ones you have specified... which I see it as a good idea so leave it to off,
The band reject frequency, leave it at 40 Hz
Your woofer does great at low frequencies, so the bass boost frequency set it for 60-70 Hz.
Also, since you'll be using this for subs, make sure you have yout dial to LP (Low Pass/Through/Hi Pass)
The high pass dials you don't have to mess with as they aren't used on Low pass.

Something to note. If your stereo has Low Pass frequency adjustment, the amp will already be receiving only low frequencies, so, if you want to leave it in Through (or full) it will not matter, thus I had to admit that this Amp gives you room for seting the audio exactly as you want.

This will be the setting I would use according to my experience and my ear... but, it will depend on your taste as you'll be the one riding it.

if you have any question please let me know.

by the way, hopefully this was useful to you