Warm Freezer and How do I set or reset the defrost mode

May need Freon

It sounds like the defrost circuit is on. Usually this circuit comes on every 8 hours or so and runs for about 20 minutes - or until a thermal sensor on (or near) the actual freezer coil rises to about 50 degrees F - whichever happens first.

The defrost circuit on some fridges not only activate the defrost heater in the freezer coil compartment - but one or more small heaters in the fridge cabinet door jambs where moisture is likely to form on humid days. Some fridges have a selector switches that enable or disable these "moisture control" heater(s). In any case, the defrost should not be on all the time.

Rising temperature in the freezer / fresh food compartment can be the result of a dirty condenser coil. Depending on the fridge, the condenser coil may be viewed and cleaned (vacuumed) from lower front (after removing the toe space bezel) or from the rear - behind an easily removed cover - often made of a thick cardboard / fiber material. You should only vacuum and clean the coils, fan blades, etc. when the fridge unplugged.

The fans that blow cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment may no longer be spinning - due to disconnected wires, motor failure or physical obstruction.

The defrost circuit timer may have become stuck in the defrost mode. Even though the thermal sensor will stop the heat once it reaches 50 degrees - if the timer is stuck - it will never enable the compressor. Defrost related repairs are cheap compared to a compressor failure.

Lastly, the compressor or refrigerant lines may have failed. This can be a costly fix. I hope this helps and good luck!

You said you replaced the timer and have the thermostat on order, but you didn't say if you had checked the heater element

Heater
PART NUMBER: 2166124

Substitution: 2315530

Since those are the three components of the defrost system! If the timer and thermostat both work perfectly, if the heater is open, there is nothing to defrost the evaporator coil.

You should also check your fan motor http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/4387244/0046/106/Model-10677292790/0582/0166000?keySuffixId=NA&productTypeId=x&searchModelNumber=10677292790&subCompDesc=Unit%20parts&brandDesc=KENMORE&modelDesc=REFRIGERATOR&blt=11 and make sure it is operational.

When an icemaker slows production, the problem is not the icemaker at all but the temps in the freezer warming up because of an airflow problem either in the freezer compartment evaporator coils or underneath the unit that being the condenser coils. (Fan not working or lint blockage)
Airflow problems in the freezer compartment are caused by the fan or the automatic defrost system not functioning properly so yu end up with an ice block / lots of frost in the freezer compartment on the back wall of the compartment.

Check for ice or large amounts of frost in the freezer compartment. If you note ice / excessive frost, unplug the unit, empty the freezer compartment and do a manual defrost by directing an external fan into the compartment for just over 2 hours. This will ensure the evaporator coils and the freezer compartment drain have thawed. While the manual defrost is in progress remove the rear fiberboard cover from the compressor access and check / clean the condensor coils and fan area.
After 2 hours clean up the excess water.. reassemble the rear cover and return the unit to NORMAL service. It should start making lots of ice in 4 to 6 hours. Here is the kicker... if there is an auomatic defrosting problem your icemaker will after 2 - 3 days again slow ice producion and ice will build up in the evaporator area. You will have to keep repeating the manual defrosting process every 3 to 4 days until the automatic defrost system is repaired.

There are 3 main components of the Automatic defrost system:
1. Defrost control
2. Defrost heater
3. Defrost thermostat or depending on type thermistor

Most of the time the problem is either the defrost control or the heater that fails and the unit stops defrosting.

Your parts can be found here:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/LG-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-LSC26905TT/3204/0165000

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

There is likely a problem with the defrost circuit or cold air circulating fan (but could be a low freon charge or other problem). The freezer compartment has the cooling coil with defrost heater and a fan that pulls cold air from the freezer and blows it into the fresh food compartment; based on the setting of the thermostat in the fresh food compartment.

When the defrost heater fails, the area that the cooling coil is located in eventually turns into a solid block of frost and ice. It becomes impossible for air to be drawn across the cold coil, cooled and blown into the fresh food compartment. The result is a rising temperature in the fresh food compartment - and eventually in the freezer section, too. Since the fresh food compartment contains the thermostat and the temperature never gets low enough to satisfy it - the compressor runs non-stop. That is, until the defrost timer kicks in to shut it off for 20 minutes or so.

The first thing to do is to manually defrost the freezer by accessing the cooling coil after emptying the contents of the freezer. This can be a pain in the neck to remove racks, shelves, ice maker, etc. to get to the back wall of the freezer, behind which the cooling coil is found. If you expose the cooling coil and it is encased in frost and ice it is a problem with the defrost circuit. If it is not - the fan is suspect. If the fan spins, check for a blocked path between the fan and the fresh food compartment. Defrost by placing a heat source in the freezer or directing the output of a blow dryer at the coil. If you're unable to access the cooling coil, you can simply empty the freezer and defrost it with a heat source. it will take longer to melt all the frost and ice, but it will work.

If it is a defrost circuit problem, you'll need to check voltages and continuity on the defrost terminator & timer and defrost heating element, fans, etc. after completely thawing the ice & frost.

This job isn't a good first time DIY job due to the danger of freezing skin, etc. due to possible exposure to freon in the system and the tight spaces you'll be working in with live voltages. You might want to call a pro after you've defrosted or put up another fixya request if you decide to dig in on your own and need specific help with procedures, locating parts, wiring diagrams, etc.

I hope this was a good starting point to help you decide whether to go forward or not on your own. Good luck!

There is likely a problem with the defrost circuit or fan (but could be a low freon charge or other problem). The freezer compartment has the cooling coil with defrost heater and a fan that pulls cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment, based on the setting of the thermostat in the fresh food compartment. Before you dig into that, you should vacuum the condensor coil to remove dirt and dust that always collects on it. It that solves it - you're done. Otherwise, continue.

When the defrost heater fails, the area that the coil is in turns into a solid block of frost and ice. It becomes impossible for air to be drawn across the cold coil, cooled and blown into the fresh food compartment. The result is a rising temperature in the fresh food compartment - and eventually in the freezer section, too. Since the fresh food compartment contains the thermostat and the temperature never gets low enough to satisfy it - the compressor runs non-stop. That is, until the defrost timer kicks in to shut it off for 20 minutes or so.

The first thing to do is to manually defrost the freezer by accessing the cooling coil after emptying the contents of the freezer. This can be a pain in the neck to remove racks, shelves, ice maker, etc. to get to the back wall of the freezer, behind which the coil is protected. If you expose the cooling coil and it is encased in frost and ice it is a problem with the defrost circuit. If it is not - the fan is suspect. If the fan spins, check for a blocked path between the fan and the fresh food compartment.

If it is a defrost circuit problem, you'll need to check voltages and continuity on the defrost terminator & timer and defrost heating element, fans, etc. after completely thawing the ice & frost. This job isn't a good first time DIY job due to the danger of freezing skin, etc. due to possible exposure to freon in the system and the tight spaces you'll be working in with live voltages. You might want to call a pro after you've defrosted or put up another fixya request if you decide to dig in on your own and need specific help with procedures, locating parts, wiring diagrams, etc.

I hope this was a good starting point to help you decide whether to go forward or not on your own. Good luck!

Either the defrost circuit has failed or the refrigerant is low - my money is on the defrost circuit.

Most defrost circuits have three main parts:

1) defrost electric heating coil
2) defrost terminator
3) defrost timer.

The heating coil and terminator are in the freezer compartment - behind a protective panel. The heater is usually piggy-backed on the freezer coil and the terminator is in contact with the freezer coil to detect its temperature. The defrost timer is a simple assembly of a clock motor with switch contacts that can be located anywhere the manufacturer desires. The timer turns on or enables the defrost circuit every 8 or so hours for up to 30 minutes give or take.

When the timer has enabled the defrost cycle, the cooling mode ceases; the compressor shuts off and power is sent through the terminator to the heater. The heater warms and melts any ice build up on the freezer coil. The water drips to a pan and flows down the tube to a pan under the fridge - where it is evaporated off. The heater warms the freezer coil until either a) the timer returns to cooling mode or b) the terminator senses a preset rising temperature on the freezer coil. Once either condition is present, power is interupted and heating stops. The compressor is energized through the adjustable thermostat in your fridge. Since it is warm, the compressor turns on and cooling begins.

If any of the components listed above (1,2 or 3) have failed, the defrost cycle never warms the freezer coil and the ice never melts to clear the freezer coil as intended. Air can not be circulated through the freezer coil since it is choked with ice, so even though the compressor runs, the fridge and freezer spaces never get colder. The adjustable thermostat never sees the temperature you've set so the compressor never shuts off.

Water dripping in the fridge is melting ice from the freezer space - as the freezer is not getting colder - only the protected space around the freezer coil is.

To fix this, you'll have to get the service manual or schematics for the fridge to determine where the parts are located and do some troubleshooting with a multimeter after disassembling the freezer compartment and wherever else to access the timer if needed. This is not a good first appliance repair job for a DIYer due to the danger of refrigerant and testing live electrical parts in closed in spaces.

I hope this helps.

This sounds like a problem with the defrost circuit. It is likely that the evaporator coil is clogged with ice due to the defrost heater not functioning. This can be caused by a failure of any one or more of the following components:

1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be "stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle. May be found in the toe space of many fridges, but not all.

2) Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured to the refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.

3) Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coil.

4) Fan. The fan is located near the evaporator coil. if the fan is unable move air from the freezer to the fridge, the compressor runs endlessly because cold air is not blown into the fridge compartment - where the thermostat is detecting a high temperature.

5) Condenser coil. If the condenser has a "furry jacket" it's long overdue for a cleaning. Gently vacuum lint / dust / dirt collected on the coil to increase efficiency. This is probably not the problem - but it probably needs to be done anyway.

Most of these steps will require hand tools, schematics (specific to your model), electrical test equipment, etc. Be careful to not use sharp instruments that may puncture refrigerant lines or electrical insulation. Allow the ice to defrost with the fridge powered off with the freezer door opened, and a pot of hot water inside, hair dryer directed at the coil, etc. Access to the evaporator coil is usually from the freezer compartment (back wall) and will require removal of any ice maker installed.

Sounds like the condenser fan may not be running. It is located under the rear of the unit. The coils may be covered with dirt too. Either will cause the problem. If you cannot find the problem you should call a servce tech to look at it.

Normally if you defrost a frost free and put it back on then it should operate normally for approx two to three weeks. You probably have a defrost heater, stat or timer not operating correctly. The defrost timer once located can normally be manually turned to a defrost cycle and you can see if the heater kicks in. I would try this with the coil frozen and see if you can see the ice melting. If it fails to melt the ice it is a heater or stat, if it fails to come off defrost then it is a timer fault. Hope this is of some help.