DeLonghi DBM8150 problem

These instructions disassemble an electrical appliance. You should have some technical/mechanical/electrical experience to attempt this and you do so at your own risk.

See exploded diagram : http://www.kenwoodservice.co.uk/uk-delonghi/exploded/exploded-KF8150M.pdf

This is not a very good diagram to show the disassembly, however, it will at least help me to identify the parts.

Prise out the center insert in the drive wheel (#15 on the diagram) on the top of the base unit (I used a paring knife and worked my way around the circumference to work it loose).

Remove the four rubber feet (#19) from the base by pulling them out.

Undo the 4 phillips head screws in the holes where the feet were.

Remove the base and carefully position it along-side the body of the blender.

Prise off the silver switch knob (#13) - it slides straight off the switch shaft and I used a screw driver to carefully lever it off, working from each side a little at a time.

Undo the drive wheel on the top of the drive shaft by holding the fan on the bottom of the drive shaft and turning the drive wheel CLOCKWISE.

Undo and remove the two screws holding the switch support (#11) and cut the tie wrap that secures the blue cable to this support.

Undo the four screws that secure the motor assembly to the casing and remove the screws and their shake-proof washers.

Remove the internal components as a single assembly. Tilt/angle the motor assembly towards the switch support until the top of the shaft clears the rubber boot in the top and then the whole lot comes out easily.

To replace the switch (Part No. HS1144 - #10 on the diagram):

Carefully lever the white gear wheel off the switch shaft.

Undo the two small screws that hold the dial gear wheel cover in place on the switch support.

Remove the cover and the small gear wheel (noting which way around the gear wheel goes the two ends of the shaft are slightly different).

Undo the nut on the switch shaft that that secures the switch to the support (nut is 14mm diameter and needs a thin wall socket. I used long nose pliers to remove and re-install it).

The wires connect by simple push fit into their slots and the angled brass blades inside the slots grab the wire and lock it in place. To withdraw each wire, use a very thin screw driver (or similar) to depress the brass blades inside the slot. This enables the wire to be withdrawn as you depress the blade.

Re-assembly is the opposite sequence.

When putting the dial back together, remember to check that the dial reading lines up with the switch position (adjust the gears by resetting the teeth if the alignment is not correct.


Here’s the really interesting thing. After I replaced the switch, I pulled the old one apart. IT HAD FAILED BECAUSE THE CONTACTS HAD BURNT OUT. They had obviously been arcing and had completely burnt through. There were burnt off tails of the contacts lying in the switch housing and there was evidence of burning (carbon deposits) inside the switch. In short – the switch is not up to the job and will fail. Poor design and a latent defect.

I need to reemplar the elices of the mixer since two of the 4 spears of the mixer became broken to me