Cooling fan on wash pump

The fan is connected to the armature of the motor and if it will not move then the motor is seized. Possible because the seal in the pump has failed and water has rusted the armature to the fields of the motor. Suggest you consider a new pump unit.

see this causes and use the common sense. God bless you
If your dishwasher seems noisy, check these: Water-inlet valve Motor Heater fan Pump Water-inlet valve An aging water-inlet valve can sometimes fail slowly, rather than all at once. It can shudder on and off rapidly, causing the incoming water lines to shake, rumble, and rattle--sometimes violently. If yours is doing this, replace the inlet valve. Motor If it's the motor that's noisy, either of these may be the "culprit:" As motor bearings wear out, they can become quite loud when the motor runs. They wear out quickly if they frequently get wet, because the water washes away the motor bearing grease. Bearings can get wet if the spin seal is defective. Then there will also be water leaking onto the floor beneath the dishwasher. Replace the seal if it leaks (read about the main tub seal in the "It leaks" section, later). If, from beneath the dishwasher, you can see a round, plastic disc that's mounted to the top of the motor (a "slinger"), it may have broken free of the motor shaft. If so, it could be rattling around the shaft while the motor is running. If that's the problem, you need to replace the motor. Heater fan If the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn, they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this is the problem, replace the fan motor. Alternatively, the fan blade may be loose. If so, you need to replace it. Pump Small fruit pits, toothpicks, and fragments of glass sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this happens, open the pump and remove the debris. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. To get to the pump, you usually need to remove the lower rack, the spray arms, and the spray arm support from the inside of your dishwasher. A dishwasher pump isn't obvious. Look for an impeller--a round, plastic fan blade-type device that spins around and pushes the water toward the drain. When you can see the drain impeller, you should be able to see the clogging debris.

see this causes and use the common sense.God bless you
If your dishwasher seems noisy, check these: Water-inlet valve Motor Heater fan Pump Water-inlet valve An aging water-inlet valve can sometimes fail slowly, rather than all at once. It can shudder on and off rapidly, causing the incoming water lines to shake, rumble, and rattle--sometimes violently. If yours is doing this, replace the inlet valve. Motor If it's the motor that's noisy, either of these may be the "culprit:" As motor bearings wear out, they can become quite loud when the motor runs. They wear out quickly if they frequently get wet, because the water washes away the motor bearing grease. Bearings can get wet if the spin seal is defective. Then there will also be water leaking onto the floor beneath the dishwasher. Replace the seal if it leaks (read about the main tub seal in the "It leaks" section, later). If, from beneath the dishwasher, you can see a round, plastic disc that's mounted to the top of the motor (a "slinger"), it may have broken free of the motor shaft. If so, it could be rattling around the shaft while the motor is running. If that's the problem, you need to replace the motor. Heater fan If the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn, they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this is the problem, replace the fan motor. Alternatively, the fan blade may be loose. If so, you need to replace it. Pump Small fruit pits, toothpicks, and fragments of glass sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this happens, open the pump and remove the debris. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. To get to the pump, you usually need to remove the lower rack, the spray arms, and the spray arm support from the inside of your dishwasher. A dishwasher pump isn't obvious. Look for an impeller--a round, plastic fan blade-type device that spins around and pushes the water toward the drain. When you can see the drain impeller, you should be able to see the clogging debris

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

How badly pitted was the motor shaft? The reason I ask is the fan is going to be a bit of a challenge. Bearings, a cooling fan and likely shaft pitting and other damage from overheating does not make it worthwhile to repair a motor in most situations...

If you are OK with the shaft and the motor winding isn't damaged from the heat then I'll need the motor brand, model number and serial number to ID and quote the part. Either add it here as a comment or send it to me thru www.arrowmotor.net using the contact feature.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

{: ) You didn't mention the model of your vehicle. Anyway, I admire your way of observation, and I'm sure you got the analogy by now. When the car is running, the engine rpm is higher, and so with the water pump, plus the wind velocity passing thru the radiator fins, can give sufficient engine cooling without the electric cooling fans. But when your vehicle stops, like sitting on a traffic, the engine rpm is lower, and so with the water pump, and there ain't enough wind to help.
This is why the electric cooling fans are very important in maintaining engine temperature at normal levels in any driving conditions.
Basically, the cooling fans are controlled by the engine control module (ECM). The ECM monitors input from various engine sensors and then will give an output signal based on its programmed instructions. The output signals will energize the corresponding fan relays, be it high or low speed.
You can start by checking first the easy ones like the fuses and relays. Cooling fans usually have square top transparent windows. Check the the underhood fuseblock label to locate. Might as well check all fuses to be sure.
Check the cooling fan relays for signs of overheating, and also for loose terminal seating.
Check the cooling fan if stuck, and also check the connectors if burned or melted. To rule out a defective cooling fan motor, you can check for continuity, or you may apply direct voltage to the two wires on each fan.
The mostv frequent cause of cooling fan malfunction is on the fuses, relays, and connectors.

COOLING FANS DONT TURN COULD BE FAULTY FAN RELAY.FAULTY PCM AND FAULTY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.CODE SCAN FOR FAULTY PCM CODE AND A FAULTY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.SEE IF ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR IS GIVING CORRECT COOLANT TEMPERATURE USING A CODE SCANNER.IF ENGINE IS 190 DEGREES AND THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR READING 100 TO 80 DEGREES COOLANT SENSOR IS BAD.HOT WIRE COOLING FAN TO SEE IF FAN MOTOR WORKS.BECAUSE COOLING FAN MOTOR COULD HAVE OPEN CIRCUIT CAUSING ELECTRIC MOTOR NOT TO TURN ON.

The engine is kept cool by a liquid circulating through the engine to a radiator. In the radiator, the liquid is cooled by air passing through the radiator tubes. The coolant is circulated by a rotating water pump driven by the engine crankshaft. The complete engine cooling system consists of a radiator, recovery system, cooling fan, thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt.

Check the coolant level in the recovery bottle or surge tank, usually mounted on the inner fender. With the engine cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD or between the FULL HOT and ADD level. With the engine at normal operating temperature, the coolant level should be at the FULL HOT or HOT mark. Only add coolant to the recovery bottle or surge tank as necessary to bring the system up to a proper level. On any vehicle that is not equipped with a coolant recovery bottle or surge tank, the level must be checked by removing the radiator cap. This should only be done when the cooling system has had time to sufficiently cool after the engine has been run. The coolant level should be within 2 in. (51mm) of the base of the radiator filler neck. If necessary, coolant can then be added directly to the radiator.

While you are checking the coolant level, check the radiator cap for a worn or cracked gasket. If the cap doesn't seal properly, fluid will be lost and the engine will overheat.

Worn caps should be replaced with a new one.

Periodically clean any debris; leaves, paper, insects, etc. from the radiator fins. Pick the large pieces off by hand. The smaller pieces can be washed away with water pressure from a hose.

Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful, the fins are very soft. Don't wiggle the fins back and forth too much. Straighten them once and try not move them again. It is recommended that the radiator be cleaned and flushed of sludge and any rust build-up once a year. If this has not been administered within the stated time, this may be why your vehicle is overheating at this time. Have the Radiator flushed asap if this is the case.

Now, if the coolant level is proper and, the cap is in fair or good condition, i would advise to move in the direction of the cooling fans and sensors as well. These fans are vital to the cooling process as well. The cooling fans must cycle in intervals to keep the coolant cool during stop and go driving or, long idle. They are also very important during the operational period of the AC during travel as well. i recommend inspecting the cooling fans while the engine is running. they should cycle during the running period. if this is not the case, you will need to test the operational value of these devices. The test procedure follows below


TESTING


1. If the fan doesn't operate, disconnect the fan and apply voltage across the fan terminals. If the fan still doesn't run, it needs a new motor.

2. If the fan runs, with the jumpers but not when connected, the fan relay is the most likely problem.

3. If fan operates but a high current draw is suspected continue with the following ammeter TESTING.

4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cooling fan.

5. Using an ammeter and jumper wires, connect the fan motor in series with the battery and ammeter. With the fan running, check the ammeter reading, it should be 3.4-5.0 amps; if not, replace the motor.

6. Reconnect the fan's electrical connector. Start the engine, allow it to reach temperatures above 194°F and confirm that the fan runs. If the fan doesn't run, replace the temperature switch.



Ok, Now we will move on to the next possible issue. The water pump. ok, due to the fact that your pump is driven by the drive belt, you will need to start the engine and listen for bad bearing, using a mechanic's Stethoscope or rubber tubing.

* Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
* If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

Replace the pump in this case.

You will also notice leakage around the pump housing if the seal has failed as well. this will strain the impeller and, ruin the pump.

Now. the last area of concern will be the thermostat. this is the most common issue that will inflict overheating in many vehicles. The thermostat is used to control the flow of engine coolant. When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed to prevent coolant from circulating through the engine. As the engine begins to warm up, the thermostat opens to allow the coolant to flow through the radiator and cool the engine to its normal operating temperature. Fuel economy and engine durability is increased when operated at normal operating temperature.


There are several ways to test the opening temperature of a thermostat.

One method does not require that the thermostat be removed from the engine.

* Remove the radiator pressure cap from a cool radiator and insert a thermometer into the coolant.
* Start the engine and let it warm up. Watch the thermometer and the surface of the coolant.
* When the coolant begins to flow, this indicates the thermostat has started to open.
* The reading on the thermometer indicates the opening temperature of the thermostat.
* If the engine is cold and coolant circulates, this indicates the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced.

The other way to test a thermostat is to remove it.

* Suspend the thermostat completely submerged in a small container of water so it does not touch the bottom.
* Place a thermometer in the water so it does not touch the container and only measures water temperature.
* Heat the water.
* When the thermostat valve barely begins to open, read the thermometer. This is the opening temperature of this particular thermostat.
* If the valve stays open after the thermostat is removed from the water, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.
* Several types of commercial testers are available. When using such a tester, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
* Markings on the thermostat normally indicate which end should face toward the radiator. Regardless of the markings, the sensored end must always be installed toward the engine.
* When replacing the thermostat, also replace the gasket that seals the thermostat in place and is positioned between the water outlet casting and the engine block.

* Generally, these gaskets are made of a composition fiber material and are die-cut to match the thermostat opening and mounting bolt configuration of the water outlet.
* Thermostat gaskets generally come with or without an adhesive backing. The adhesive backing of gaskets holds the thermostat securely centered in the mounting flange, leaving both hands of the technician free to align and bolt the thermostat securely in place.

try having someone turn the ignition to the run position while listening for the fuel pump to turn on. It should make a humming sound then stop. If not then the fuel pump or relay is probably bad. Could be the fuel filter if the pump runs but the car won't start. Do you also get a no spark condition? If so then ignition module is strong possibility of problem. Good luck

1 Inspect Hose Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Raditor Hose. 2 Inspect Head Gasket Leaking Head Gasket. 3 Inspect Thermostat Thermostat Stuck Closed. 4 Inspect Raditor Cap Worn or Damaged Raditor Cap. 5 Inspect Raditor Raditor Fins Obstructed. 6 Inspect Belt Missing or Broken Water Pump Belt. 7 Inspect Heater Core Heater Core May Be Leaking Antifreeze/Coolant into The Vehicles Floor Area. 8 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket. 9 Inspect Cooling Fan Switch - Raditor Faulty Raditor Cooling Fan Sensor/Switch. 9 Inspect Water Pump Leaking Water Pump. 9 Inspect Raditor Fan Motor Faulty Raditor Cooling Fan Motor. 9 Inspect Relay - Raditor Cooling Fan Motor Faulty Cooling Fan Relay. 9 Inspect Fan Blade Broken, Missing, or Faulty Fan Blade(s).

try to replace the hoses, they may be collapsing, then replace the thermostat, and give it a radiator flush to clear any possible clogs in the lines, last thing i would say is to replace the fan