Nut in oil tank of 1991 toyota corrolla is stuck

What nut are talking about? what brand and size of wh. The heating element is usually unscrewed from tank using a socket that you can purchase at HD. the the element and hex head is one unit. Good luck. Let me know how it went.

replacing the anode will increase the life of the tank. it is the large nut on top of the tank. it is a sacrificial material that helps prevent tank rust through.

It is a burner lockout. Have you checked your oil level?

is the filter clean u might of picked up sludge in bottom tank also blow out the supply lines and re fitt try again

If you are talking about the water valve on the cold water inlet it should have a nut under the lever if it is a quarter turn ball valve.If so you can remove the nut that hold the lever on and carefully tighten the nut by turning it clockwise.This should stop it leaking if it is coming from around the stem. If it is a globe type valve there should be a packing nut that goes around the stem under the handle. Tighten this nut carefully to get leak to stop. If it is leaking anywhere else then you will need to have the valve replaced.They are available at almost any hardware store.Thank you.

Anode rods for tank-type water heaters are located on top of tank.
This is true since anodes are about 44" long.
Top of anode is standard 1-1/16" hex nut.
Anodes can be located in 2 different places: either directly screwed into top of tank -or- attached to hot water nipple.
Most times the exploded parts diagram in manual simply shows 'anode rod' without specifing exact location. If your tank has long warranty, then it can have two anode rods, and 1 will be on top and the other probably attached to hot water nipple, or there could be two anodes screwed into top of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

If anode is screwed into top of tank, then it will be under a plastic cap -or- it will be concealed under the top cover of tank.
Look for plastic cap, and if none shows, then remove screws holding down metal cover and look there for 1-1/16" hex nut.
Lastly, remove hot water nipple and check for anode located there.
If you have 2 anode rods, then replace with same metal for each.

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After 18 years there will be a build up . you could flush the tank and see what comes out, replace the line to the sink and dishwasher , then you can decide if you want to replace the tank .Which sounds like it will need to be done .

There allot of possible problems, usually with an oil tank that has set for awhile, when you fill the tank, it stirs up debre and even water that is in the tank, caused by condensation, it is best to let it set for at least 24 hours to allow it all to settle. The oil pickup tube is usually installed 3" off of the bottom of the tank to help with this problem. Some systems have an external oil filter in the line, this will need to be checked,,, but more than likely the nozzle is fouled, causing the spray pattern to make contact with the electrodes and creating a carbon buildup and shorting them out.
If it is a 2 line fuel system, it will self bleed the air out of the line if you clean the filter, but if it is a single line system, you will need to manually bleed the line, it gets very involved. There are very few good oil men around anymore, but a good place to start would be with your oil supplier and see if they know of a good repair man,
But in the future, to save yourself allot of pain, never let the tank get below 1/3 level and let it sit for 24 hours after filling. On a old system, this is the cheapest and easiest way to avoid problems.
I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but if you have anymore questions, please contact me and please rate me.
Sincerely,
Paul Gibson

the large burner sits on a cradle in the center of the tank, the piliot light connects to the burner assembly make sure the opening is facing the right way toward the burner, the thermocoupling should slide through the hole and sleve for it and should be pushed all the way till you feel it click, put it in vary carefully, sitting the asembly on it's perch, then line up the door and slowly push it all in at one time, making sure that the burener is level and is directly on it cradle, the door will line up pu the nuts on the screws pull it in evenly so there is no gap on either side, if there is any air gap it will not light, nor will it stay lit, do not touch the thermocoupling the oils from your hand will get on it and give it a false reading and will not light

Hi blaineandhea,

I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.

Your statement is: You ran out of oil,so got more oil in tank.blead the lines.but now you cant get pilot to start

Every oil burner I ever worked on had a type of spark ignition. No standing pilot. If this is the case for you then the only reason it won't turn on is that the lines weren't properly bled. It only takes a little bubble to ruin the day. Don't be afraid to blead lots of oil, you should be catching it anyway to put back in the tank.

Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Thank you,
Harvey your Master Plumber