The bottom oven (actually top and bottom but the bottom is the instigator) light will not turn off when door is closed - it began last evening after using the oven. The light eventually went out by itself after numerous tries of turning it off.
The light switch for this door appears to be working - the door if held tightly against the switch turns the light off - but once letting the door go - the light turns back on.
Light went off - just opened door - light won't turn off now that door is closed AND oven is in use.
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We have similar Jen Air double oven and with the same problem but only on the lower oven. The doors are interchangeable and the top door fits fine but the lower door will not close completely at the top. It does turn out the light but has never cooked properly. I checked with several appliance repair shops and the hinges are not adjustable, but since one door closes and our other doesn't it is not a hinge problem, just a defective design.
We let this go too long and are out of warranty so I doubt Jennair is going to do anything. I hope someone post a solution but it is clearly not problem with the henges but with the receptacle they go into.
you either have a bent door hinge or a broken door spring. check the hinges by opening the door and see if it opens past 90 degrees. if it leans towards the floor then the hinges are bent. if not then your door springs are broken off. you can check this by seeing if the door "feels" heavy when opening. either way the door should close tight against the frame when up and the light should not come on without opening the door.
My Jenn-Air double oven locked after a clean cycle. My model (JJW8630) has a series of slots cut in the top of the door. Take a piece of stiff wire, coat hanger, and bend a right angle about 1/2 inch at the end, feed the wire into the 3rd or 4th slot from the center on the right hand side. Turn the wire so that the bent piece is on the top and push the wire so it engages the lever which latches the door shut, it is spring loaded and moves easily.
Once the door was opened, I removed the temperature sensor, held by 2 screws, from the top of the oven and eased the wire out to get to the connector. The faulty sensor was reading 4.2 k, at room temperature it should be just over 1k, while waiting for a new sensor to arrive I stuck in a 1k resistor, ex Radio Shack, so the fan stops running and the door latch can be retracted by closing the oven door, or press the switch on the top right of the door opening.
My replacement part was ordered on line for less than 1/2 the official quoted price.
I had the same problem. The first time the Tech. came out, put a new hinge in and it held until Nov. 07. ( 8 months ). Then the left hinge brakes when I opend the door and it crashes to the floor. Bending the right hinge and the metal doorliner. Jan.7,08 everything was fixed. On 1/11 after no more then 10 openings & closings the hinge broke again. This time I heard the crack of the braking metal after opening the door 2 inches. It now sits in my kitchen propped-up with a stick, waiting for the repairman. I am sorry I have no solution , but there must be a problem with the hinges. I forgot to tell you that it started with a door that did not close, like yours.
First, with the door closed, find the screws at the bottom of the door and remove. With an assistant, open the door and remove any side and inside screws you find. The door will separate into two halves. Be aware that most glass is not clipped in...they can fall and break. Remove the front panel from the door...the door may try to slam shut. To clean the glass, use a blue cleaner and a scrubby or very fine steel wool rubbing gently. Scratches are not allowed! Take pictures of what you're doing so you can replace. Be careful of brittle door insulation.