Online Instructions to change Door Boot on Maytag Washer

model number sure would help.

Had the nd error and smelled like burning wires. Read a review here and removed drain pump and a piece of plastic stuck in the impeller. Removed,inspected and reinstalled. Worked perfect! Thanks
We were heading out next day to buy new washer and dryer at $2000! Yikes!

There is a 2" L shape hose connected to that drain hole under. You can unclog it using a soft plastic stick. Stick it on to that hole do not force it turn the plastic stick while putting it in. Thare are 2 types of door gasket on that model one has hole in it and the other doesn't. If your original doesn't have a hole, the one that has a hole will work but there is a plug on to that hole.

This is your door gasket
https://www.rcappliancepartsimages.com/dbimages/00003022/00909166.jpg

Just take the front panell off to see if there's a small hose connected to the gasket drain hole. You can even clean it after taking the panell off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O6d3KFIfWo

Check the door seal for tears and the drain boot from tub to drain boot for anything that might have put a hole in like a piece of metal from an under wire bra which front loads will spin so fast that the wires come out of the bras.

The Maytag MAH300AWW was the first generation front load washer. Your MAH5500BWW is a much newer version and has a boot drain and door venting to minimize the mold. Just be sure your drain (bottom center of the boot) is clear. Use a solution of 1/2 cup of Granular Dishwashing Detergant and 1 cup of Chlorine Bleach added directly into the tub. Run the machine through a hot was cycle (with NO clothes inside) every few months and this will reduce or eliminate the mold.

Here you find alll diargams for your appliance.

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

  Remove 2 screws holding door hinge to cabinet and remove door.  Then remove 2 screws opposite these. Grab front panel with thumbs at area of screws you removed and pull outward with thumbs. Panel will pivot forward.  Remove panel from lower clips.  At top of exposed area remove 2 5/16 screws.  Remove brackets under them. 
  Open dispenser and remove 4 screws.  Careful not to drop in dispenser.  Remove dispenser frame assembly.
  You can now raise top of washer to a 90 degree position.
   Now back to front exposed area.  Grab boot where it contacts front and peel out of groove.  Also remove two screws holding light assembly and remove cover.  Remove all 5/16 screws holding front assembly and the ones on top area where it is on a bevel.  Remove front assembly by folding up and onto top. 
  Now we are at the boot.  Remove spring and wire assembly holding boot to drum.  Make note on boot position and spring position.  Remove boot.  Install new boot onto drum.  wrap wire around drum with ends at top.  Now the fun!  Hook spring to on end of wire and using vise-grips,  pull to other end to hook into wire.  It can be done,  honest.
  Now just reverse to reassemble.  should be instructions with boot.   Good luck!

first take off old one, watching carefully how it came off ,some machines you can take front off,remove front wire on boot there is a other one inside problemably a spring type you may need a other person to help you put it on its trial and error realy go for it get back to me if you have a problem its not that easy iam at it 30 years good luck IRE close 0872465395 free advice

Remove the door hinges and plastic covers on the unused hinge screw holes on the opposite side of the door opening (door is reversable, so there are places to mount hinges left and right). Front panel will now snap out at top and lift off lower spring clips. One screw on each side will now release top panel and it will hinge up. Prop up with broom handle or something. Now you can get at everthing. Rubber gasket is held onto drum with a cable loop and very strong spring. It rolls off the lip easily to disassemble but is VERY difficult to get back on without special tools or at least two people. We used strong vice grips and much struggling and sweat, and #@*&%!&@ and finally got it on without damage to the new gasket. Door side of rubber gasket is easy in comparison with rubber tabs inserted into slots and working the gasket into a groove. Hose clamp at bottom of rubber gasket to connect drain hose.